HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

THIS INSTALL IS INCOMPLETE. IT IS ENOUGH TO STEP YOU THROUGH, BUT COMES WITHOUT PICS OR THOROUGH DOCUMENTATION. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Get the two studs from your dealership. They'll cost $3 and change a piece. Total cost approx $7 USD. Go to a hardware store and buy a 5/8" nut (it's not meant to fit the stud, it's meant to go around it and not mess up the threads) and two 1/2" washers. There's the parts.

Here's the tools:

(1) Hammer
Some lubricant (WD40 or silicone lube should work fine)
(1) 13/16" socket. (Preferrably impact because air tools make this process go much more quickly) You'll need a ratchet too for the brakes and with a long handle should do the trick for torquing the stud into place.
(1) Jack

...I think that's it. I'll make a how to sometime, but for now this'll help you.

The steps:

1. Jack the car and remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor. I didn't inclue these tools, but basically it's just a couple sockets that mount the caliper in place. Slide the caliper off the rotor but do not remove the hose. Rest the caliper on something so that it's not just hanging on the hose and so that you don't have to disconnect the hoses and bleed the brakes later. Then you're going to want to remove the rotor. (Just pull gently. A little shaking make be required.)

2. Spray the broken lug nuts liberally with lubricant. Let em soak a minute or two.

3. Get the hammer (those mini sledges work really well) and bang with a moderate but steady stroke directly at the top of the broken nut. You're trying to push it out the back, not break it more or slam your rotor.

4. Once both lugs are out, put the new lug in in from behind. Don't force it into the hole, just try to match up the ridges so you don't strip anything. Turning them gently then pushing them into place with your hand works fine.

5. Put a washer on the threaded side of the stud, then after it the 5/8" nut, and finally the other washer. Take an old lug nut and put that on top and screw it hand tight.

6. Put your 13/16 socket on the lug nut and tighten until the back of the stud is flush. (This is where the impact wrench saves a LOT of time). Then simply remove the lug nut.

7. Repeat on as many studs as necessary.

8. Put the rotor back on (the studs might not be perfectly straight, but they'll be damn close. If you're having a lot of difficulty getting the rotor back on try to straighten the wheel stud by either tapping it with something like a rubber mallot that won't disfigure the threads or just tighten it more.

8. To get the caliper back on you're gonna have to play with it a bit to open it (you may knock the pads out if you're like me, but you can just put em right back in. Remount it once it's around the rotor and tighten as much as you can without using your superhuman strength (you don't want your caliper to vibrate off and I don't have tq specs handy).

9. Put the wheel back on and you're done.

I may have missed something, but it's pretty much intuitive. If you see anything missing lemme know. I'm at work so I'm doing this inbetween processing applications and my brain's about to explode.

Discuss this repair here.

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

Hammering them into place can be done too, but for $0.70 more you can be certain do it without risking damage to your hub from banging on it more than necessary.