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Sep 13, 2009, 04:06 PM
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#16
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Location: Indy
Posts: 641
Drives: WWevo9rs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/TErnie
Nice! Nice job on the fit up. I like to bevel my tubes more than what you've done, but that's my personal preference. Looks like another solid setup. Good thinking on keeping your JIG so you don't have to remake your downpipe/exhaust.
How much boost did you run on the 35R setup? (weird question... what bov? Recirc or atmo?)
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Ya, some of them are beveled better than others, but it gets to be a pain in the bum bum if the bevel is to large and your trying to hold everything together by yourself. I think I used a 1/2 roll of masking tape. lol.
Most of the time the 35r was @ 34-35psi daily, e85 car. It blew up on 37-38psi. The wg was recirced back in, along with a modded stock bov recirced back in.
The new setup is a dumped tial 44, and tial bov. e85 of course, SD on the stock ecu.
Fathouse
__________________
2006 Evo9 RS
Stock Engine/head/ecu/maf
Magnus v5, Shep racing, QM clutch, FP cams, Fatfab 35r turbo kit, BFF Racing, Snake Tunning, and CORN Fed
Best times to date.
6.757/10.362
108.55/136.94
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qh0DPNNlJw
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Sep 13, 2009, 04:09 PM
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#17
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Posts: 641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warp9
Impressive! Is this at your house? Props for a sweet looking setup and clean welds.
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Ya, I do it all at home. Basically out of a two car garage. Been so busy latley I have done a few evo clutch jobs and turbo installs in my driveway.
I need a shop!
Fathouse
__________________
2006 Evo9 RS
Stock Engine/head/ecu/maf
Magnus v5, Shep racing, QM clutch, FP cams, Fatfab 35r turbo kit, BFF Racing, Snake Tunning, and CORN Fed
Best times to date.
6.757/10.362
108.55/136.94
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qh0DPNNlJw
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Sep 20, 2009, 06:56 PM
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#18
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Location: Indy
Posts: 641
Drives: WWevo9rs
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__________________
2006 Evo9 RS
Stock Engine/head/ecu/maf
Magnus v5, Shep racing, QM clutch, FP cams, Fatfab 35r turbo kit, BFF Racing, Snake Tunning, and CORN Fed
Best times to date.
6.757/10.362
108.55/136.94
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qh0DPNNlJw
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Sep 21, 2009, 12:05 AM
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#19
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Location: B'ham WA
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Drives: TB Evo IX
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you're figuring it out. You just need to work on tacking pieces. You can tack SS without filler rod. They key is lifting on the pedal very quickly... it draws the metal together and forms a tack. Do it enough and you'll understand what I mean.
I see you ran out of stainless bends
Nice job rocking the pedal!
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11.1@129mph - 521whp via Dynojet
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Sep 21, 2009, 10:47 AM
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#20
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2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Posts: 2,368
Drives: 03 EVO VIII White
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So this is a basic question to R/TErnie and Fathouse.... do you guys have the welder setup in pulsed?
Currently I weld both DC stuff (stainless and mild steel), and AC stuff with pulsed settings. I found it easiest when I first started. I run the pulse at 1Hz and it helped with timing on adding filler rod - as well as not getting the material too hot. Now that I'm a little better than when I first started I wonder if that is still good practice?
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jid2 Built: Now featuring E85 super fuel
2.3L - GT3076R .63A/R, ETS equal length, Kelford 272's, BC valve springs, 1mm O/S valves, FIC BM 1450's, Full-Blown dual Walbros, Buschur IC, jid2 intake, airbox, IC pipes, APS BOV, TBE, ACT HDSS, Stock ECU, 28 psi 466hp/420 ft-lb...
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Binary Lowered Recaro Seats, Girodisc 2-Piece, brake ducting, ST43's, SS lines and ATE Superblue, KW V3's 8K/10K, jid2 flat-bottom, adjustable splitter and aero, 18x9.5 +40 NT03's 265/18/35 BFG R1's
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Sep 21, 2009, 10:53 AM
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#21
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Location: illinois
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Drives: 97 eclipse gst
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This setup looks sick! nice work.
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Sep 21, 2009, 01:54 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jid2
So this is a basic question to R/TErnie and Fathouse.... do you guys have the welder setup in pulsed?
Currently I weld both DC stuff (stainless and mild steel), and AC stuff with pulsed settings. I found it easiest when I first started. I run the pulse at 1Hz and it helped with timing on adding filler rod - as well as not getting the material too hot. Now that I'm a little better than when I first started I wonder if that is still good practice?
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I used to use the pulser when I first started welding, but I do not anymore. I also used to try to figure out the right amps for every thickness/type of metal etc.
Now I do not pulse anything, and just set the amps up high and let my foot control the power.
IMHO, try to get good without the pluser and such, I found myself welding at a friends house with his machine that did not have a pulser, and not knowing what I am doing. Now I can weld with anybodys machine.
Fathouse
__________________
2006 Evo9 RS
Stock Engine/head/ecu/maf
Magnus v5, Shep racing, QM clutch, FP cams, Fatfab 35r turbo kit, BFF Racing, Snake Tunning, and CORN Fed
Best times to date.
6.757/10.362
108.55/136.94
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qh0DPNNlJw
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Sep 21, 2009, 04:13 PM
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#23
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Drives: TB Evo IX
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Rock the pedal. It's a manual pulse persay... you control the heat much better. I pedal down when I'm adding and welding... lift on the pedal when I'm moving. It keeps the heat from saturating the piece.
My 200Dx dynasty doesn't have enough amperage on AC for me to use a pulser... I run it wide open
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11.1@129mph - 521whp via Dynojet
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Sep 21, 2009, 11:07 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: SO. CO.
Posts: 236
Drives: K20 EJ1 68mm turbo, 03 EVO8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/TErnie
Rock the pedal. It's a manual pulse persay... you control the heat much better. I pedal down when I'm adding and welding... lift on the pedal when I'm moving. It keeps the heat from saturating the piece.
My 200Dx dynasty doesn't have enough amperage on AC for me to use a pulser... I run it wide open 
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damn wish i had a dynasty...need to get rid of my house size sync and get me a little dynasty. Especially for the 115 hookups, new house doesnt have 220 and i dont feel like adding it...
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Sep 22, 2009, 03:22 PM
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#25
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very nice work.....look foward to see how this all turns out
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Sep 28, 2009, 03:47 PM
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#26
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2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
Join Date: Feb 2004
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updizzles...... fat-hizzle.....
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jid2 Built: Now featuring E85 super fuel
2.3L - GT3076R .63A/R, ETS equal length, Kelford 272's, BC valve springs, 1mm O/S valves, FIC BM 1450's, Full-Blown dual Walbros, Buschur IC, jid2 intake, airbox, IC pipes, APS BOV, TBE, ACT HDSS, Stock ECU, 28 psi 466hp/420 ft-lb...
Build Thread
Binary Lowered Recaro Seats, Girodisc 2-Piece, brake ducting, ST43's, SS lines and ATE Superblue, KW V3's 8K/10K, jid2 flat-bottom, adjustable splitter and aero, 18x9.5 +40 NT03's 265/18/35 BFG R1's
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Oct 1, 2009, 08:03 PM
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#27
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__________________
2006 Evo9 RS
Stock Engine/head/ecu/maf
Magnus v5, Shep racing, QM clutch, FP cams, Fatfab 35r turbo kit, BFF Racing, Snake Tunning, and CORN Fed
Best times to date.
6.757/10.362
108.55/136.94
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qh0DPNNlJw
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Oct 1, 2009, 08:11 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 69
Drives: EVOS
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How much do you think you spent on the materials for your manifold?
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Oct 2, 2009, 09:10 AM
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#29
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Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: ( 48)
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Redmond - Lake Tapps ,WA
Posts: 2,368
Drives: 03 EVO VIII White
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That collector looks friggin nice inside. Great work house-of-fattness.
__________________
jid2 Built: Now featuring E85 super fuel
2.3L - GT3076R .63A/R, ETS equal length, Kelford 272's, BC valve springs, 1mm O/S valves, FIC BM 1450's, Full-Blown dual Walbros, Buschur IC, jid2 intake, airbox, IC pipes, APS BOV, TBE, ACT HDSS, Stock ECU, 28 psi 466hp/420 ft-lb...
Build Thread
Binary Lowered Recaro Seats, Girodisc 2-Piece, brake ducting, ST43's, SS lines and ATE Superblue, KW V3's 8K/10K, jid2 flat-bottom, adjustable splitter and aero, 18x9.5 +40 NT03's 265/18/35 BFG R1's
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Oct 2, 2009, 03:12 PM
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#30
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Thanks man.
__________________
2006 Evo9 RS
Stock Engine/head/ecu/maf
Magnus v5, Shep racing, QM clutch, FP cams, Fatfab 35r turbo kit, BFF Racing, Snake Tunning, and CORN Fed
Best times to date.
6.757/10.362
108.55/136.94
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qh0DPNNlJw
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