Cheap Fail Safe
Jun 12, 2007, 09:35 AM
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Cheap Fail Safe
I have been running verison 2 on my last car and currently on the evo and works perfect just like I explained. I thought I would share something I posted up on another forum enjoy. When I use the term "meth dependent" that was for my last car/setup.
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=float01 . I have been looking around for something like this since my car is meth dependent. Rather than put an LED on it why not use the ground to trigger a boost solenoid to activate when the fluid is low. I know vendors have this but I thought it would be cool to make myself. I have the solenoid in my truck from my old traction control setup I made. The price for the solenoid is around 20 bucks shipped. Below are a few rough diagrams I mean rough, as well as list of parts:
Parts:
-$20 Low fluid switch (to name a few devilsown & cooling mist)
-GM #1997152 boost solenoid $21.86 www.gmpartsdirect.com or
www.horsepowerfreaks.com
-14-18 Guage wire- auto parts store
-Vacuum Lines no more than a 7/32''-Local Auto Store
-butt connectors
-eyelid connectors
VERISON 1
Diagram 1:
This is when there is fluid in the tank, and running in normal loop. The green line is inactive meaning the air from the pressure source will be blocked off by the solenoid since that side is closed:
Diagram 2:
This is when the fluid has reach below the sensor. This will trigger on the solenoid switching the boost controller source to being active and now making the pressure source active. Whatever your wga is set will be the low boost or "safe" boost once your out of your mixture.
VERISON 2
probably the most best verison, since it monitors overall flow. This is the verison I am doing on my car next week for an extra 30 bucks compared to the float you cant beat it:
you need to hook this up backwards (switch the bc and pressure source) so instead the low fluid level trigger the solenoid. It will trigger it to the bc "if" there is fluid flowing.
the product:
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=05
This will be normal driving or once you hit boost with no fluid or clog nozzle. Since the sensor has not triggered the solenoid because there is no flow.
Now if everything is operating correctly once the sensor signals flow it will trigger the solenoid to the bc control. This will happen so quickly (like blinking your eye). Once the fluid level has drop or the nozzle has clogged it will revert back to the diagram above:
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=float01 . I have been looking around for something like this since my car is meth dependent. Rather than put an LED on it why not use the ground to trigger a boost solenoid to activate when the fluid is low. I know vendors have this but I thought it would be cool to make myself. I have the solenoid in my truck from my old traction control setup I made. The price for the solenoid is around 20 bucks shipped. Below are a few rough diagrams I mean rough, as well as list of parts:
Parts:
-$20 Low fluid switch (to name a few devilsown & cooling mist)
-GM #1997152 boost solenoid $21.86 www.gmpartsdirect.com or
www.horsepowerfreaks.com
-14-18 Guage wire- auto parts store
-Vacuum Lines no more than a 7/32''-Local Auto Store
-butt connectors
-eyelid connectors
VERISON 1
Diagram 1:
This is when there is fluid in the tank, and running in normal loop. The green line is inactive meaning the air from the pressure source will be blocked off by the solenoid since that side is closed:
Diagram 2:
This is when the fluid has reach below the sensor. This will trigger on the solenoid switching the boost controller source to being active and now making the pressure source active. Whatever your wga is set will be the low boost or "safe" boost once your out of your mixture.
VERISON 2
probably the most best verison, since it monitors overall flow. This is the verison I am doing on my car next week for an extra 30 bucks compared to the float you cant beat it:
you need to hook this up backwards (switch the bc and pressure source) so instead the low fluid level trigger the solenoid. It will trigger it to the bc "if" there is fluid flowing.
the product:
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=05
This will be normal driving or once you hit boost with no fluid or clog nozzle. Since the sensor has not triggered the solenoid because there is no flow.
Now if everything is operating correctly once the sensor signals flow it will trigger the solenoid to the bc control. This will happen so quickly (like blinking your eye). Once the fluid level has drop or the nozzle has clogged it will revert back to the diagram above:
Jun 13, 2007, 06:18 PM
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you can get the pressure switch from www.mcmaster.com for
3460K61
(Same as 3460K15)
Pressure Switch 20 to 120 PSI Actuation Range
In stock at $19.80 Each
3460K61
(Same as 3460K15)
Pressure Switch 20 to 120 PSI Actuation Range
In stock at $19.80 Each
Jun 14, 2007, 08:27 AM
#7
Methanol Injection Failsafes
http://vid61.photobucket.com/albums/...lcuban/TTP.flv
These are some of the older failsafes. With the ZEITRONIX ZAVT-1, there are a tone more programmable safeguards available much as Slowcar already uses with the zeitronix and aquamist system he is using.
http://vid61.photobucket.com/albums/...lcuban/TTP.flv
These are some of the older failsafes. With the ZEITRONIX ZAVT-1, there are a tone more programmable safeguards available much as Slowcar already uses with the zeitronix and aquamist system he is using.
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Jul 7, 2007, 04:58 PM
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After racing a friend of mine last nigth it seems like missed one section in the fail safe. Since most ppl w/ w/i use high cracking check valves or electronic water solenoid (like myself) to keep pressure in the lines to avoid having to wait for it to fully spary. there will be pressure still in the line from the check valve or water soleoind and if the pump doesnt turn on the flow sensor will still trigger the boost solenoid to stay in high boost. Easy fix what you have to do is tap the boost solenoid power wire to the pump power wires.
The same way you hook up your electronic water solenoid:
Now if you didnt have a high cracking check valve or water soleniod, it would be a different story since the pump is not flowing in fluid (do to it not working) and the flow sensor will not swith it over to high boost.
The same way you hook up your electronic water solenoid:
Now if you didnt have a high cracking check valve or water soleniod, it would be a different story since the pump is not flowing in fluid (do to it not working) and the flow sensor will not swith it over to high boost.
Last edited by bnice01; Jul 7, 2007 at 05:01 PM.
Jul 11, 2007, 08:44 AM
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First of all I wanted to say great job on the diy Fail Safe. I love seeing ideas like this getting shared with everyone.
However I have a question about the pressure switch you're using. After looking over the specs in that link SlowCar posted, it seems that this switch can only be used to sense either a clogged nozzle(over pressure) or a leak/pump failure/etc(not achieving set pressure) but not both. The pressure switch has one set point so you use it to trigger one or the other. Is this correct?
I haven't thought this all the way through yet but if you get creative, I'd imagine you could use two of these pressure switches to get coverage on both possible failures. Am I thinking clearly on this?
However I have a question about the pressure switch you're using. After looking over the specs in that link SlowCar posted, it seems that this switch can only be used to sense either a clogged nozzle(over pressure) or a leak/pump failure/etc(not achieving set pressure) but not both. The pressure switch has one set point so you use it to trigger one or the other. Is this correct?
I haven't thought this all the way through yet but if you get creative, I'd imagine you could use two of these pressure switches to get coverage on both possible failures. Am I thinking clearly on this?
Jul 13, 2007, 01:34 AM
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if you think about it.... how much money is actually wrapped up into a meth kit if you didn't buy it from a vendor? 15-20 bux? but they sell them for how much??? so with your 20 bux fail safe you should be ok. but if it were me, i wouldn't be spending money on a meth kit thats assembled with 20 worth of parts to possible blow up my 4000.00 motor. Just a thought.
Jul 13, 2007, 05:48 AM
#11
if you think about it.... how much money is actually wrapped up into a meth kit if you didn't buy it from a vendor? 15-20 bux? but they sell them for how much??? so with your 20 bux fail safe you should be ok. but if it were me, i wouldn't be spending money on a meth kit thats assembled with 20 worth of parts to possible blow up my 4000.00 motor. Just a thought.
Jul 16, 2007, 02:23 PM
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if you think about it.... how much money is actually wrapped up into a meth kit if you didn't buy it from a vendor? 15-20 bux? but they sell them for how much??? so with your 20 bux fail safe you should be ok. but if it were me, i wouldn't be spending money on a meth kit thats assembled with 20 worth of parts to possible blow up my 4000.00 motor. Just a thought.
I made my own w/i kit and it was around 180 or so (since I bought good parts) and 100 bucks for the fail safe.
Last edited by bnice01; Jul 16, 2007 at 04:28 PM.
Jul 16, 2007, 02:28 PM
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First of all I wanted to say great job on the diy Fail Safe. I love seeing ideas like this getting shared with everyone.
However I have a question about the pressure switch you're using. After looking over the specs in that link SlowCar posted, it seems that this switch can only be used to sense either a clogged nozzle(over pressure) or a leak/pump failure/etc(not achieving set pressure) but not both. The pressure switch has one set point so you use it to trigger one or the other. Is this correct?
I haven't thought this all the way through yet but if you get creative, I'd imagine you could use two of these pressure switches to get coverage on both possible failures. Am I thinking clearly on this?
However I have a question about the pressure switch you're using. After looking over the specs in that link SlowCar posted, it seems that this switch can only be used to sense either a clogged nozzle(over pressure) or a leak/pump failure/etc(not achieving set pressure) but not both. The pressure switch has one set point so you use it to trigger one or the other. Is this correct?
I haven't thought this all the way through yet but if you get creative, I'd imagine you could use two of these pressure switches to get coverage on both possible failures. Am I thinking clearly on this?
