Nitrous Questioning

[inco9nito99]

Hey guys i'm curious as to see how many evo owners are actually runnin the bottle. If so, is it RPM activated via throttle or just button? How much of a shot and what injectors are you running if its a dry kit? While spraying, what afr's do you usually shoot for? Thanks!

[sekula]

Usually 50-75 shot is perfect for an evo...more than that is pushin it. you still aim for the same afr's, but before you actually run the nitrous, you retard timing a little because the nitrous pushes the a/f ratios up a little bit and it's also helpful to turn down the boost by 1 psi just to be safe....

[inco9nito99]

Thanks I appreciate your input, I actually know that much, but I was interested in seeing what current runners of nitrous on their cars have to say about it .

[swordfish]

I've seen 125 on a couple of local cars for years.

jeff

[Paul Nelson]

We just put on a a wet 75 shot and going to run her this weekend. I'm running VP Import gas which makes a world of difference with nitrous and its ability to help with knock. We were at 39pis but took it down to 35 psi. we also took the timing from 17deg to 14 deg for the 75 shot. The dyno we were on just spun the slicks and chunked them out when i hit 630whp each time

[Joshs EVO]

I am thinking of going with nos also. I am on the side of the people that say that "if tuned right it is a great power adder".

The stuff is almost the same as meth. what I mean by that is: it is still dangerous to use like if you run out of meth and the failsafe's don't work there goes your motor well it's the same with nos. It costs about the same to refill the meth tank and a bottle of NOS, but the NOS wil last longer unless you abuse it. That's just my 2 cents.

[Jeff_Jeske]

Been there done that..... Its great for the occational need for more go.... but...

1. Its too easy to add a bigger jet. You may slap on a 50 shot and your car will love it. It may run perfect. Then you slap on a 75 shot and man oh man the car just rips and everything is in tune. Eventually you will build a false sense of security and try to add that 100 shot. This may actually work a few times but have one hickup with anything spark, fuel, knock, and WHAM!
2. The bottle is not instantly up to operating pressure. Even on 70 degree days a full bottle will need to be heated using a heater. That being said on 90 degree days the bottle may be over pressurized and you'll have to wait for it to cool down before spraying. When I say use the heater sometimes it takes 30-45 minutes to get a half full bottle up too 950PSI. In summary unless you open the bottle everytime you leave the house (and heat it) you wont be prepared for a drag race. You cannot just open the bottle on 1st ave and be ready to lay waste at 2nd ave.
3. Unless you own your own filling station and purchase a mother bottle from a gas/chem company you will probably get raped on the price you pay for nitrous. Around here I get charged $4.50/LB and a $5 hookup fee. I dropped the cash on purchased my own filling station. This dropped the price down to about $2.90/LB. Depending upon your location your prices may vary.
4. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
5. There is additional added fear that a part may fail and the motor may say goodbye. If your fuel solinoid takes a crap during a pass bad things could happen. Sure there are many safety items you can buy to prevent some issues but it is likely sooner or later something not soo good will happen. Bad things have happened to me. I actually melted a valve when I picked up a tank of bad gas. Apparently in some states they have enthanol "enhanced" fuel. This fuel was a poor choice to run with juice. I definately would recommend running race gas with laughing gas. I also had a nitrous backfire. I believe my bottle pressure wasn't quite where it needed to be (might have been cold) and when I went to spray I blew then entire intake side off the motor. The explosion was so massive it bent my throttle body blade. Motor was fine but I shat myself when it happend. I've also missed a shift and went WOT while on the juice since there was no load on the motor I didn't notice any fallout but if I had actually done a 1-2-3-2 shift and dumped the clutch there would have been pieces and parts everywhere.
6. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
7. You have to prep your car for juice. On a turbo car you WILL need to pull timing and if you are running bleeding edge boost you'll have to back it down because nitrous will cause it to creep. Prepping your car also means running the correct spark plugs and odds are your clutch will not appreciate it at all. If you are serious about keeping your motor healthy you'll have to check your plugs after each session of spraying. Reading plus is about the best way to determine how the motor is responding. In the end its very cheap power IF you run a big shot, but with all the cons that come with it it may just be BETTER to upgrade something else, get a little less power, but have it all the time.

Some more info..... if you are using stock launch control you aren't going to use juice from the dig. You'll probably flip the switch after getting into second gear. If you aren't using LC you can use self control to not nail the pedal all the way down until you have traction and full clutch engagement. It helps to add an MSD RPM window switch to save you from too early of engagement or from an accidental miss shift.

With race fuel you will not need to retard timing. On 100 you should be able to run 23psi and a 75 shot on your 93 octane pump gas map. I wouldn't recommend a dry system that would require increasing fuel pressure and its just a PITA to work with on a boosted car. If you are serious about nitrous a direct port system is the hot ticket but most people stick with the single fogger wet system. I prefer Nitrous Express but NOS is very good too. You'll find jetting charts that are a little different between vendors but NX rates their gains at the wheels. A 31 is a 35WHP shot. A 35 is a 50WHP shot. A 42 is a 75WHP shot. I ran a 46N/26F which was good for an additional 100FT/LBS of torque and 87WHP. The numbers will be different for each platform as they are rated gains on a stock car. If you have cams and your buddy doesn't you will see different gains.

My advice is get all the bolt on mods first then if you feel you still need a secret weapon, toss on the sauce. Its expensive. I got about 10 full 1/4 mile runs out of a 10LB bottle with the 46N jet. Putting into terms that make sense..... each race cost me $5 in nitrous. Each full pass cost the same as eating at Burger King. You have to have self control to use it only during a time of need or you'll see the associated cost add up very quickly.

[Da Chemist]

Does nitrous differ between auto and manual? Because i'm seriously considering it. I can't see myself paying 3 grand then another 1200 to get a turbo running from RRM. i love them but i just can't do it.

[Jeff_Jeske]

No nitrous doesn't differ from auto to manual. But most auto trannies are weaker than the MTX. Nitrous produces very high torque even a manual will need a strong clutch to hold the power.

For the record unless you buy a used kit its probably gonna cost you close grand to get set up correctly.

If I was a regular lancer driver I would start looking for a good cheap used 03 EVO instead of dicking with the base model. I have seen modded 03s go for $17k on ebay.

[projekt_shocker]

Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske

Putting into terms that make sense..... each race cost me $5 in nitrous. Each full pass cost the same as eating at Burger King. You have to have self control to use it only during a time of need or you'll see the associated cost add up very quickly.

i like this quote...

[pac74]

Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske

Been there done that..... Its great for the occational need for more go.... but...

1. Its too easy to add a bigger jet. You may slap on a 50 shot and your car will love it. It may run perfect. Then you slap on a 75 shot and man oh man the car just rips and everything is in tune. Eventually you will build a false sense of security and try to add that 100 shot. This may actually work a few times but have one hickup with anything spark, fuel, knock, and WHAM!
2. The bottle is not instantly up to operating pressure. Even on 70 degree days a full bottle will need to be heated using a heater. That being said on 90 degree days the bottle may be over pressurized and you'll have to wait for it to cool down before spraying. When I say use the heater sometimes it takes 30-45 minutes to get a half full bottle up too 950PSI. In summary unless you open the bottle everytime you leave the house (and heat it) you wont be prepared for a drag race. You cannot just open the bottle on 1st ave and be ready to lay waste at 2nd ave.
3. Unless you own your own filling station and purchase a mother bottle from a gas/chem company you will probably get raped on the price you pay for nitrous. Around here I get charged $4.50/LB and a $5 hookup fee. I dropped the cash on purchased my own filling station. This dropped the price down to about $2.90/LB. Depending upon your location your prices may vary.
4. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
5. There is additional added fear that a part may fail and the motor may say goodbye. If your fuel solinoid takes a crap during a pass bad things could happen. Sure there are many safety items you can buy to prevent some issues but it is likely sooner or later something not soo good will happen. Bad things have happened to me. I actually melted a valve when I picked up a tank of bad gas. Apparently in some states they have enthanol "enhanced" fuel. This fuel was a poor choice to run with juice. I definately would recommend running race gas with laughing gas. I also had a nitrous backfire. I believe my bottle pressure wasn't quite where it needed to be (might have been cold) and when I went to spray I blew then entire intake side off the motor. The explosion was so massive it bent my throttle body blade. Motor was fine but I shat myself when it happend. I've also missed a shift and went WOT while on the juice since there was no load on the motor I didn't notice any fallout but if I had actually done a 1-2-3-2 shift and dumped the clutch there would have been pieces and parts everywhere.
6. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
7. You have to prep your car for juice. On a turbo car you WILL need to pull timing and if you are running bleeding edge boost you'll have to back it down because nitrous will cause it to creep. Prepping your car also means running the correct spark plugs and odds are your clutch will not appreciate it at all. If you are serious about keeping your motor healthy you'll have to check your plugs after each session of spraying. Reading plus is about the best way to determine how the motor is responding. In the end its very cheap power IF you run a big shot, but with all the cons that come with it it may just be BETTER to upgrade something else, get a little less power, but have it all the time.

Some more info..... if you are using stock launch control you aren't going to use juice from the dig. You'll probably flip the switch after getting into second gear. If you aren't using LC you can use self control to not nail the pedal all the way down until you have traction and full clutch engagement. It helps to add an MSD RPM window switch to save you from too early of engagement or from an accidental miss shift.

With race fuel you will not need to retard timing. On 100 you should be able to run 23psi and a 75 shot on your 93 octane pump gas map. I wouldn't recommend a dry system that would require increasing fuel pressure and its just a PITA to work with on a boosted car. If you are serious about nitrous a direct port system is the hot ticket but most people stick with the single fogger wet system. I prefer Nitrous Express but NOS is very good too. You'll find jetting charts that are a little different between vendors but NX rates their gains at the wheels. A 31 is a 35WHP shot. A 35 is a 50WHP shot. A 42 is a 75WHP shot. I ran a 46N/26F which was good for an additional 100FT/LBS of torque and 87WHP. The numbers will be different for each platform as they are rated gains on a stock car. If you have cams and your buddy doesn't you will see different gains.

My advice is get all the bolt on mods first then if you feel you still need a secret weapon, toss on the sauce. Its expensive. I got about 10 full 1/4 mile runs out of a 10LB bottle with the 46N jet. Putting into terms that make sense..... each race cost me $5 in nitrous. Each full pass cost the same as eating at Burger King. You have to have self control to use it only during a time of need or you'll see the associated cost add up very quickly.

very nice summary jeff

[caLi4G63]

For anyone looking to pickup a window nitrous switch I recommned the ZEX Window Switch, it allows you to skip spraying in first gear and automatically starts sparying in 2nd or whatever gear you desire. I personally have the ZEX Wet Kit, ZEX bottle warmer, and the ZEX Window switch. I will be getting tuned in about one and a halft weeks so I'll get an idea of how well things work out. After all is said and done i'll be heading to the track to try the setup. Oh yea, I'll be getting tuned on 110octane.

[Hic]

If you use Wizards of NOS system (which is by far the most quality stuff you can buy), there is no problem of using 100HP direct port shot, with progressive controler. I use 250HP shot, retard only 4deg of timing on my cars. 1 car over a year, other car for 8 months.

The secret is in quality of system and progressive, time based filling of cylinders. NOS, NX and other crap, made in China (in the same factory, in fact), just can't do the job properly.

[krazirob]

does the temperature of the bottle upon spraying matter if you are using the intercooler sprayer??? just by reading that little info from above i know im not ready for a cheat such as NOX. but gettin the intercooler sprayer could be an option.

any noticeable differences with the intercooler sprayer btw???

thanks in advance

[HesGotAnEvo]

Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske View Post
Putting into terms that make sense..... each race cost me $5 in nitrous. Each full pass cost the same as eating at Burger King. You have to have self control to use it only during a time of need or you'll see the associated cost add up very quickly.



you hit the nail right on the head my friend had a 75 on his s2k and one night he put on new 100 shot jets and just blew that thing to smitherines. he sent a rod through the valve cover and spent 6 grand fixing it