just did a "dry" run...

[aresix6]

okay, I basically did a test spray of my SMC kit before I will be installing it. This basically consisted of me hooking the entire system up outside of the car (namely, on my garage floor, lol) and using my 12V booster pack as a power source. I wanted to do this to verify that everything worked good before installing the components in the car to find out later something went wrong.

Anyway, my real question is, once I test spray the nozzle it has an excellent spray pattern (used regular water) and pressure was around 100-120 psi, couldn't really tell as the needle jumped alot. Only thing is, as the pump cycles down, the nozzle does dribble a little. I assume it will behave the same when in the intake tract and was wondering if this is not good/safe? Or do I have a problematic nozzle? Everything is the standard SMC hardware as of now...

[SlowCar]

that dribble you see is NORMAL. i see that with another kit i installed with a check valve too. the only way to stop it is to go to a solenoid valve, to get a "positive" shut off.

are you going to use the 1/8NPT fitting for the dial gauge to connect your in-cabin pressure gauge to monitor line pressure?

[EvoTio]

The check valve is a great idea. I like it alot on my system because it also keeps my water mixture right at the nozzle so the spray is instantaneous.

[aresix6]

Slowcar:
Is this dribble okay for the car? I don't iamgine it could be TOO bad, but I may have to get creative and use a solenoid of some sort. Since the kit uses a progressive controller which basically controls the speed of the pump, I'd have to use a setting that allows it to open as soon as the pump energizes and when it de-energizes. But wouldn't the solenoid have to be almost right at the nozzle for that to really be effective? The dribble is caused, I presume by the residual pressure after the pump shuts down and if the solenoid was farther back you would still have the residual pressure from the point of the solenoid to the nozzle and waterever water is between there...anyway, I may be goin too deep into this, lol...

As for the gauge, that was just for usage on my test run, I got one from Grainger for like 7 bucks that is glycerin filled and fits 52mm gauge pods perfectly. I just need to get ahold of that snubber thing you were talking about in another thread.

EvoTio:

A check valve is a great item, but I'm not sure how it keeps the water right at the nozzle. Unless I am getting your term "check valve" misunderstood. A check valve is basically a one way valve, kinda like a shraeder valve. It keeps air, or water in this case, from "backfeeding" but allows it to flow smoothly in one direction. If your pump cycled off, the residual pressure would still come out of that check valve and relieve teh pressure behind it becuase it is still flowing water in the correct direction, although at a much lower pressure...anyway, like I said, I may be confused. I'm still getting a handle on the whole WI stuff...

[SlowCar]

that little drip is OK, all the similar kits out there all will do the same thing. its just that most dont test it out of the car before they install it on the car so they are not seeing it.
i think its too much work to put in a solenoid, more parts(hobbs switch...relay..), more headache and tweeking it to open slightly or at the same time as your onset spray.
you can get the snubber from www.mcmaster.com, part #4034K1, 40-45micron. Since your gauge is glycerin damped, you can go to a more free flowing frit, will increase the response time and att he same time minimise the jumpy needle. Ever try the gauge with full line pressure yet....maybe it is good as it is w/o the snubber.

[aresix6]

Ya know, I can test it out with the new gauge w/o the snubber, I'll let ya know how it responds...

[aresix6]

UPDATE: did the test w/o the snubber piece and it works perfectly without it, no vibration whatsoever...just a smooth reading...