My Aquamist 2D/DDS3 installation pics
Dec 11, 2005, 04:04 PM
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My Aquamist 2D/DDS3 installation pics
Here are some pics of my water system:
nozzle - the water is mounted within the UCIP to give an axial injection, all the water goes forward and not back into/down the bov pipe.
pump - the aquamist race pump is mounted directly underneath the APS water tank and cold air intake.
hsv - shows the dds3 flow sensor, the high speed valve-hsv (pulses with the fuel injectors and is capable of 250Hz, open/close 250 times per second) and a snubber for the in-cabin water pressure gauge to prevent gauge needle from crazy jumping when pump is active.
accu - water pressure switch is mounted directly on the accumulator. The system stores water at 120psi, its all ready to fire when the hsv is activated @4psi MAP.
nozzle - the water is mounted within the UCIP to give an axial injection, all the water goes forward and not back into/down the bov pipe.
pump - the aquamist race pump is mounted directly underneath the APS water tank and cold air intake.
hsv - shows the dds3 flow sensor, the high speed valve-hsv (pulses with the fuel injectors and is capable of 250Hz, open/close 250 times per second) and a snubber for the in-cabin water pressure gauge to prevent gauge needle from crazy jumping when pump is active.
accu - water pressure switch is mounted directly on the accumulator. The system stores water at 120psi, its all ready to fire when the hsv is activated @4psi MAP.
Dec 11, 2005, 04:18 PM
#2
Nice pictures Abner. A couple of questions,:
Do you have trust on that water line?, I know I asked you the same question the first time you showed me. I think that line looks vulnerable to heat or any other harm factors like loosing flexibility due to engine heat.
Also, I was talking with PJ about your system. Your system is truly a Sci-Fi Aquamist but in our opinion it has too many sensors and subsystems that could go wrong, in other words, your sustem is way too complex and I fear that more things could go wrong, you know what I mean?
Last but not least, are you going to upgrade your signature? You told me you made 30tq more and also more WHP.
I sent you a PM, where can I get the water gauge you have?, it looks awsome.. I want one
Carlos
Do you have trust on that water line?, I know I asked you the same question the first time you showed me. I think that line looks vulnerable to heat or any other harm factors like loosing flexibility due to engine heat.
Also, I was talking with PJ about your system. Your system is truly a Sci-Fi Aquamist but in our opinion it has too many sensors and subsystems that could go wrong, in other words, your sustem is way too complex and I fear that more things could go wrong, you know what I mean?
Last but not least, are you going to upgrade your signature? You told me you made 30tq more and also more WHP.
I sent you a PM, where can I get the water gauge you have?, it looks awsome.. I want one
Carlos
Last edited by fromWRXtoEVO; Dec 11, 2005 at 04:22 PM.
Dec 11, 2005, 04:20 PM
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more pics:
1st pic - shows the whole water system nicely tacked into the front driver side coner of the car
2nd pic - the turbo XS tuner pro is used to log timing/boost/injector duty/MAP.....very helpful tuning tool!
3rd pic - gauge pod showing system water pressure, Aquamist DDS3 and defi mechanical boost gauge.
4th pic - egt bung (swagelok 316SS 1/8" compression fitting to 1/8 NPT) tig welded to a maxford manifold. The thermocouple is a custom made low mass grounded type K used with a Omega handheld digital reader. I have it out when the car is not on the tuning table
Special thanks Richard@aquamist for help me figure out how to make the system work with a hallman MBC and other technical issues, my buddy Edwin and Taylor for hardware installation and last but not least, Nick@PrecisionDyno for the water injection tune!
1st pic - shows the whole water system nicely tacked into the front driver side coner of the car
2nd pic - the turbo XS tuner pro is used to log timing/boost/injector duty/MAP.....very helpful tuning tool!
3rd pic - gauge pod showing system water pressure, Aquamist DDS3 and defi mechanical boost gauge.
4th pic - egt bung (swagelok 316SS 1/8" compression fitting to 1/8 NPT) tig welded to a maxford manifold. The thermocouple is a custom made low mass grounded type K used with a Omega handheld digital reader. I have it out when the car is not on the tuning table
Special thanks Richard@aquamist for help me figure out how to make the system work with a hallman MBC and other technical issues, my buddy Edwin and Taylor for hardware installation and last but not least, Nick@PrecisionDyno for the water injection tune!
Dec 11, 2005, 04:26 PM
#4
Abner, I was surfing the aquamist site but can't find the dds3 . Also what is the gauge in the top? Where can I get the fancy gauge that you have in the center?
Looks awsome. Is that gauge compatible with the SMC kit?, is it a guage that could be install in any water/alcohol kit or is it a gauge that only works with the Aquamist?
Thanks!!
Carlos
Looks awsome. Is that gauge compatible with the SMC kit?, is it a guage that could be install in any water/alcohol kit or is it a gauge that only works with the Aquamist?
Thanks!!
Carlos
Dec 11, 2005, 04:40 PM
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Hey Carlos, all the water lines in the in the engine compartment can stand up to 20bar/~300psi. The water line that goes from the dds3 flow sensor into the UCIP is made of PFA-perfluoroalkoxy, it will withstand a temperature of ~500F/300C.
The whole 2D/DDS3 system is fully integrated; I guess there is no person better than Richard to answer the "too complex/fear of things could go wrong" concern.
I'll update my signature one LAST time in a couple of weeks, just keep an eye out
You can get the DDS3 gauge from Steven Clark @ Innovative Automotive - 520-882 2821.
The whole 2D/DDS3 system is fully integrated; I guess there is no person better than Richard to answer the "too complex/fear of things could go wrong" concern.
I'll update my signature one LAST time in a couple of weeks, just keep an eye out
You can get the DDS3 gauge from Steven Clark @ Innovative Automotive - 520-882 2821.
Originally Posted by fromWRXtoEVO
Nice pictures Abner. A couple of questions,:
Do you have trust on that water line?, I know I asked you the same question the first time you showed me. I think that line looks vulnerable to heat or any other harm factors like loosing flexibility due to engine heat.
Also, I was talking with PJ about your system. Your system is truly a Sci-Fi Aquamist but in our opinion it has too many sensors and subsystems that could go wrong, in other words, your sustem is way too complex and I fear that more things could go wrong, you now what I mean?
Last but not least, are you going to upgrade your signature? You told me you made 30tq more and also more WHP.
I sent you a PM, where can I get the water gauge you have?, it looks awsome.. I want one
Carlos
Do you have trust on that water line?, I know I asked you the same question the first time you showed me. I think that line looks vulnerable to heat or any other harm factors like loosing flexibility due to engine heat.
Also, I was talking with PJ about your system. Your system is truly a Sci-Fi Aquamist but in our opinion it has too many sensors and subsystems that could go wrong, in other words, your sustem is way too complex and I fear that more things could go wrong, you now what I mean?
Last but not least, are you going to upgrade your signature? You told me you made 30tq more and also more WHP.
I sent you a PM, where can I get the water gauge you have?, it looks awsome.. I want one
Carlos
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Dec 11, 2005, 04:55 PM
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The DDS3 just came out not too long ago so I guess it will be on the website soon.
The top gauge is a glycerin filled water pressure gauge; for monitoring system pressure. The glycerin + the 7micron snubber in the engine compartment stops the gauge needle from dancing crazy when the race pump is working.
The DDS3 gauge can be used on your smc kit, you just have to put it between the nozzle and the pump. One concern tho...since your kit does not have an accumulator to buffer the pressure pulses from the flojet pump...i think the DDS3 flow indicator will be jumping around like what your see on the pressure dial on the brass 90 degree elbow on your ucip...........
The top gauge is a glycerin filled water pressure gauge; for monitoring system pressure. The glycerin + the 7micron snubber in the engine compartment stops the gauge needle from dancing crazy when the race pump is working.
The DDS3 gauge can be used on your smc kit, you just have to put it between the nozzle and the pump. One concern tho...since your kit does not have an accumulator to buffer the pressure pulses from the flojet pump...i think the DDS3 flow indicator will be jumping around like what your see on the pressure dial on the brass 90 degree elbow on your ucip...........
Originally Posted by fromWRXtoEVO
Abner, I was surfing the aquamist site but can't find the dds3 . Also what is the gauge in the top? Where can I get the fancy gauge that you have in the center?
Looks awsome. Is that gauge compatible with the SMC kit?, is it a guage that could be install in any water/alcohol kit or is it a gauge that only works with the Aquamist?
Thanks!!
Carlos
Looks awsome. Is that gauge compatible with the SMC kit?, is it a guage that could be install in any water/alcohol kit or is it a gauge that only works with the Aquamist?
Thanks!!
Carlos
Dec 11, 2005, 04:59 PM
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Well engineered product + superb customer service!
Originally Posted by nothere
I am begining to think anyone who has delt with Richard has come away impressed with his knowledge and help.
Dec 11, 2005, 05:00 PM
#10
Originally Posted by SlowCar
Hey Carlos, all the water lines in the in the engine compartment can stand up to 20bar/~300psi. The water line that goes from the dds3 flow sensor into the UCIP is made of PFA-perfluoroalkoxy, it will withstand a temperature of ~500F/300C.
The whole 2D/DDS3 system is fully integrated; I guess there is no person better than Richard to answer the "too complex/fear of things could go wrong" concern.
I'll update my signature one LAST time in a couple of weeks, just keep an eye out
You can get the DDS3 gauge from Steven Clark @ Innovative Automotive - 520-882 2821.
The whole 2D/DDS3 system is fully integrated; I guess there is no person better than Richard to answer the "too complex/fear of things could go wrong" concern.
I'll update my signature one LAST time in a couple of weeks, just keep an eye out
You can get the DDS3 gauge from Steven Clark @ Innovative Automotive - 520-882 2821.
I like Steve from IAPERFORMANCE a lot, that guys is very motivated perfecionist, he wouldn't just settle with a job, he settles when the job is just perfect, he does not like shortcuts.
I still have the question to know if your gauge will be compatible with the SMC kit. Do you know?
Dec 11, 2005, 05:12 PM
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I laser cut a whole sheet of 316SS and there are so many left. If anyone who is using the aquamist nozzles, and wants one, i'll send you a piece. Just needs 2 "snap-rings", a 2-034 oring to center the whole fixture and 4mm bore thru Swagelok 1/8NPT fitting; good for 500psi and leakproof.
Originally Posted by EvoTio
Hey Abner the DDS3 looks very nice . Makes my DDS2 look so plain. That's a very nice nozzle injection idea also, kind of looks like the pre-compressor configuration that I've seen on the Aquamist forums. Nice install.
. Makes my DDS2 look so plain. That's a very nice nozzle injection idea also, kind of looks like the pre-compressor configuration that I've seen on the Aquamist forums. Nice install.
Dec 11, 2005, 05:30 PM
#12
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So what kind of difference did the Aquamist kit make? I'm more interested in water injection than alcohol because of the price and availability of the two.
Dec 11, 2005, 05:39 PM
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You mean performance wise? I was not able to do a baseline w/o water injection because the system is inherently safe; with it off or if there is a system fault, it activates a fast acting solenoid between the turbo/wastegate and i cannot boost more than ~12psig. Without the water, i will not be able to run 87 octane gas @23psig.
Originally Posted by nightwalker
So what kind of difference did the Aquamist kit make? I'm more interested in water injection than alcohol because of the price and availability of the two.
Dec 11, 2005, 05:40 PM
#14
It made a huge difference on his car. I drove it before and after and it changed the car but don't forget that he had his car tune for countless hours.
The aquamist he is using can be very expensive but in the long range it could be cheaper, you just need to keep the car long enough so that your investement is worth over the time.
I am just speaking from my point of view on his car but I will let him (Slowcar) explain that one more in detail..
The aquamist he is using can be very expensive but in the long range it could be cheaper, you just need to keep the car long enough so that your investement is worth over the time.
I am just speaking from my point of view on his car but I will let him (Slowcar) explain that one more in detail..
Dec 11, 2005, 06:12 PM
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lol, countless hours is a bit stretching it The car was on the dyno twice, made 311tq/320hp the 1st time, 2nd time, it made 345tq/325hp. The tuner Nick from Precision dyno took his time to tune the car. He looked at the dyno plot/datalog after every pull to make sure it was safe and then goes to work trimming fuel and adding timing.
the 1st time on the dyno, i had 87 octane gas in there....i did not tell Nick because i was afraid he will not tune the car. I read up on water a lot before embarking on this project. i just wanted to see how far water + 87 will go, pull after pull, the car never knocked....I WAS SWEATING BULLETS all the while the car was on the dyno! It was only after the tune that i told him what was in the gas tank. 2nd time on the dyno, still on 87 gas, i was more relaxx....but nevertheless, still sweated a bit, made 345/325. One thing tho, there was no knock, but the car misfired because i had stock gap 0.027" on the iridiums. Will have the car tuned the last time when he comes back to Phx in Jan - this time with 91, HKS DLI II and a bigger water jet.
I dont see it as expensive, i see it as peace of mind....that the system is capable of looking after itself - will not allow boost past wastegate pressure if ther is something worng with it.
My bumper is no longer black with soot (i got a white evo), spark plugs look new after 3000 miles, alumina part is white, engine oil does not look like black ink....will take a pic and post it here.
The car was on the dyno twice, made 311tq/320hp the 1st time, 2nd time, it made 345tq/325hp. The tuner Nick from Precision dyno took his time to tune the car. He looked at the dyno plot/datalog after every pull to make sure it was safe and then goes to work trimming fuel and adding timing.the 1st time on the dyno, i had 87 octane gas in there....i did not tell Nick because i was afraid he will not tune the car. I read up on water a lot before embarking on this project. i just wanted to see how far water + 87 will go, pull after pull, the car never knocked....I WAS SWEATING BULLETS all the while the car was on the dyno! It was only after the tune that i told him what was in the gas tank. 2nd time on the dyno, still on 87 gas, i was more relaxx....but nevertheless, still sweated a bit
, made 345/325. One thing tho, there was no knock, but the car misfired because i had stock gap 0.027" on the iridiums. Will have the car tuned the last time when he comes back to Phx in Jan - this time with 91, HKS DLI II and a bigger water jet.I dont see it as expensive, i see it as peace of mind....that the system is capable of looking after itself - will not allow boost past wastegate pressure if ther is something worng with it.
My bumper is no longer black with soot (i got a white evo), spark plugs look new after 3000 miles, alumina part is white, engine oil does not look like black ink....will take a pic and post it here.
Originally Posted by fromWRXtoEVO
It made a huge difference on his car. I drove it before and after and it changed the car but don't forget that he had his car tune for countless hours.
The aquamist he is using can be very expensive but in the long range it could be cheaper, you just need to keep the car long enough so that your investement is worth over the time.
I am just speaking from my point of view on his car but I will let him (Slowcar) explain that one more in detail..
The aquamist he is using can be very expensive but in the long range it could be cheaper, you just need to keep the car long enough so that your investement is worth over the time.
I am just speaking from my point of view on his car but I will let him (Slowcar) explain that one more in detail..