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just got everything updated with the firmare and xmap 3.2....i don;t even have my smart stuff installed yet (meaning i have smart fuel and timing zeroed out) but it feels better at top end with the boost already...is this possible?
Still can't find the launch control in xmap yet though....help.
Drives: Evo X, Lambo Gallardo, BMW 335i, Trackmagic FTR125 shifter
Quote:
Originally Posted by KillaSweep
just got everything updated with the firmare and xmap 3.2....i don;t even have my smart stuff installed yet (meaning i have smart fuel and timing zeroed out) but it feels better at top end with the boost already...is this possible?
Yes, this is normal. There is still some SMART stuff going on behind the scenes that aren't represented in the SMART tables. Even without the knock buffer and wideband, there will be improvements.
Quote:
Still can't find the launch control in xmap yet though....help
That's because the launch control map is not in those SMART templates that I posted up yesterday. I'll be posting lauch control equipped templates tomorrow (set at a nice 6400rpm
From what I understand you can now tell the Xede what A/F you would like to maintain and it will do so. How do you do this? I see the SMART fuel table with some +4% to -2.3% values. What are these doing? How do they correlate to keeping an A/F, or do I not have the SMART activated? Basically, I guess some of us who have never tuned need some sort of instruction book on what we are looking at and what it does. Like if I input x in colum a what happens? If I but in x+2 what happens? How do we use this program? I know that the Vishnu guys see this as elemetry stuff, but I for one do not know how to make it work.
Drives: Evo X, Lambo Gallardo, BMW 335i, Trackmagic FTR125 shifter
Don't touch the SMART tables unless there is a really good reason to. ALL of the tuning that you will be doing will be done through the normal Fuel, Timing and Boost tables. Just like before. Except now that you can monitor wideband signal and knock noise. The idea is to leave the SMART fuel and timing table alone and doing its own thing, all by itself. It doesn't need anyone help
I believe the reason you purchased SMART was so you wouldn't have to adjust those tables from the baseline maps. SMART should pretty much provide you with a custom tune above and beyond the baseline.
The only thing I am concerned about is relying on the health of a wideband sensor to prevent bad things from happening.
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TARMAC BLACK 2006 EVOLUTION 9 SPECIAL EDITION
Drives: Evo X, Lambo Gallardo, BMW 335i, Trackmagic FTR125 shifter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
I believe the reason you purchased SMART was so you wouldn't have to adjust those tables from the baseline maps. SMART should pretty much provide you with a custom tune above and beyond the baseline.
The only thing I am concerned about is relying on the health of a wideband sensor to prevent bad things from happening.
The SMART system is not designed to autotune your car. It designed so that your reasonably well calibrated baseline map adapts to anything you can reasonably throw it at as far as changes as operating environments go. You are always advised to get the baseline map as good as you can get it. Of course, the requirements now on how good it must be have been greatly reduced. Still, all the info is there to look at (AFR, and wideband) with more to come very soon...
I keep seeing launch control come up, is this the same thing as what they put in the newer MR's that allows it to hold a certain rpm when the throttle is floored with the clutch in in 1st gear? Or are we talking about the drive train busting launch at 10psi?
And if it is that way right now what have we done??? Please tell me I did not jack something up... I drove the car to work tonight and the wideband says absolutely do not drive with it unpowered, so I do not have the option of just cutting the wire....
I noticed something today about the current dropping when the AC is switched on and off. It can cause the wideband to kick back into boot mode. So i am redoing the instructions to tap power off of a more dedicated source. And FWIW, the wideband can be run without power for short periouds of time. However, running it weeks on end with no power, may shorten its life.
I drove the car to work tonight and the wideband says absolutely do not drive with it unpowered, so I do not have the option of just cutting the wire....
