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Drives: Evo X, Lambo Gallardo, BMW 335i, Trackmagic FTR125 shifter
How to make a Methanol/Race gas map
This little tutorial assumes that you already have an appropriate pump gas map. It will show you how to modify that map into a higher output map appropriate for methanol injection and/or race gas. This map can be loaded as a secondary map on the XEDE for you to switch to when you are running methanol or race gas.
Actual fine-tuning requirments will vary between size of the methanol jet and meth/water mixture. For this tutorial, you will need the meth injection to be close to 100%. This will ensure that effective octane will be sufficiently high (close to 100oct)
Also, be very careful about running out of methanol while you are on boost. This will result in very very lean A/F ratios which can cause damage. This is one reason I like race gas maps running on race gas (in the fuel tank).
Step 1. Modify your fuel/maf table:
On your pump gas map, you will have something like this:
Now, with your mouse, select the entire table from Load 25 and up. Right click on the mouse button and select "Add Offset". Input "-4" and hit enter. This will remove -4 points of fuel from the entire on-boost fuel table. FWIW, load values below 25 represent mostly off boost/cruising conditions. Taking away this fuel will enlean your AFR by approx 1 point. So if you were running AFRs of 12:1 to 11:1 by redline, you should now be around 13.0:1 to 12:1 by redline. So now your leaner MAF table should look like this:
Step 2. Modify your crank/timing table:
The timing table for your pump gas map should look something like this:
Under full throttle, a Stg 1+ EVO will see load of 50-55 by 7000rpm at which time the XEDE is pulling back 2.8-2.9 degrees of timing. Similarly, at 5000rpm, a Stg 1+ car will usually hit load values of 25-30 at which point the XEDE is pulling back 0.2-0.3 degrees of timing. Well, with race gas or methanol, you wont need to pull back any timing at all. So, select the entire map with your mouse, right click and select "Fill..." and input "0" and hit enter. This will zero out your entire timing map. Now the table will look like this:
Zero'ing out the few degrees of timing retard, by itself, will yeild an additional 10-15whp in a stg 1+ car as long as there is enough octane to support it. However, in this case, the gains though ignition advance will be greater since we are also dialing back MAF which will result in a passive increase in timing advance. Expect to see a passive advance of approx 2 degrees though the MAF trim covered in Step 1.
Step 3. Modify your Boost table:
Your current boost table may look something like this:
With 100oct or a good dallup of methanol, we can raise it. How much depends on a number of variables. But, for the most part, 100oct or meth injection will allow you to raise peak boost pressures by 3-4psi. I say "peak" because the stock turbo will still taper down to 18psi or so by redline regardless of what numbers you put in the table. But between 3500 and 5000rpm, you'll see more boost. To raise your boost, increase your table in 5 point increments. If you're already at 100% (as many stg 1+ cars run) you wont be able to raise boost through this method. That being the case, you can install an bleeder in-line with the wastegate control solenoid. This fitting is available through us for $10. Installing this fitting will raise boost by 3-4psi. Just keep peak boost below 26psi please. So your new boost map may look something like this:
Step 4. Test Drive your car
If you followed these instructions, you will have created a somewhat conservative race gas/methanol map. It should be worth an additional 25-45bhp over your pump gas. To make sure it works like it is supposed to work, take the car for a drive. Under boost, you should feel no hesitations, dead spots or other signs of mistune. If you do, stop what you are doing, load up the pump gas map and call it a day
Note: You will notice that I refer to anything under a load of 25 "off boost". This is only the case with XEDEs running v3. Compared with v2, v3 has a different type of load scaling. For those running v2, anything below a load of 10 can be considered "off-boost". So for those running v2, your adjustments to MAF and boost should be above Load 10.
Another Note: Recently, we've been re-doing the way we map boost tables (also known as "unknown table" in some maps For the lowest load rows, we now put in "0%"s instead of the usual 100%. This is because it is more friendly to the boost driver in the XEDE to not power the boost control solenoid at all than to keep it wide open under low load. For v2 users, just keep the lowest load row (below 10 for instance) set to 0. For v3, keep the rows below 25 kept to zero. Make sense?
Cheers,
Shiv
Last edited by shiv@vishnu; Apr 27, 2005 at 03:16 PM.
He is basicly just explaining how he starts off tuning a race gas map, once he has finished the pump gas map. Obviously this wont be a perfect map, but it should be pretty darn good. The man is giving away his secrets!!
What output are you looking for?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jman425
Shiv -
I presume you already did all this during our tune last Saturday ?
Did you ever find out how many milliamps the Xede output is ?
I have a bone stock evo equipped with the XEDE. I know race gas, isn't necessary for a stock evo, but I like the way it runs and I sometimes will throw some in. That leaves me with two questions.
1. Would these tuning instructions you give be suitable to change on a 91oct base map?
2. Would it still be safe to run a higher octane (93 or 101) on the base 91oct map? I ask this because what if I was traveling through other states and had to fill up with 93 or I just decided to put 101 in on my base map. I don't think it would I would just like to know I guess.
__________________ '02 RRM Turbocharged Lancer OZ - Retired
'03 Vishnu Powered Apex Silver Evo - Retired
'05 Black Tacoma
'06 Kawasaki 636 '08 Vishnu Powered TiAg 335xi
I have a bone stock evo equipped with the XEDE. I know race gas, isn't necessary for a stock evo, but I like the way it runs and I sometimes will throw some in. That leaves me with two questions.
1. Would these tuning instructions you give be suitable to change on a 91oct base map?
2. Would it still be safe to run a higher octane (93 or 101) on the base 91oct map? I ask this because what if I was traveling through other states and had to fill up with 93 or I just decided to put 101 in on my base map. I don't think it would I would just like to know I guess.
running race gas on a 91 octane map won't hurt your car, but it won't help much either. Higher octane gas offers higher knock resistance, allowing for more aggressive boost and timing . Your 91 map will not take advantage of this, resulting in little or no gain.
__________________
Jason
03 Evo VIII Vishnu-tuned - (sold)
G35 sedan
He is basicly just explaining how he starts off tuning a race gas map, once he has finished the pump gas map. Obviously this wont be a perfect map, but it should be pretty darn good. The man is giving away his secrets!!
What output are you looking for?
Shiv's got all the info on that Dustin. It's related to the install and interface of the Xede to the aquamist kit.
__________________
Jason
03 Evo VIII Vishnu-tuned - (sold)
G35 sedan
Drives: Evo X, Lambo Gallardo, BMW 335i, Trackmagic FTR125 shifter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Az3ar
so Shiv, are you leaning the A/F mixture now after the WIK install? I thought you were running the car richer with the WIK aka alky.
Leaning out the fuel table and the adding meth will not always make the car read leaning at the tailpipe with a wideband since they both have opposite effects on registered AFR (MAF trims raise AFR while meth inj. loweres them).
running race gas on a 91 octane map won't hurt your car, but it won't help much either. Higher octane gas offers higher knock resistance, allowing for more aggressive boost and timing . Your 91 map will not take advantage of this, resulting in little or no gain.
Could I still follow the tuning suggestions made by shiv though? I know I'm not going to get substantial gains from running race gas I'm well aware of that, but I do like to put it in sometimes. I just want to know if it would be safe to follow shiv's tuning advice for a base 91oct map.
__________________ '02 RRM Turbocharged Lancer OZ - Retired
'03 Vishnu Powered Apex Silver Evo - Retired
'05 Black Tacoma
'06 Kawasaki 636 '08 Vishnu Powered TiAg 335xi
Could I still follow the tuning suggestions made by shiv though? I know I'm not going to get substantial gains from running race gas I'm well aware of that, but I do like to put it in sometimes. I just want to know if it would be safe to follow shiv's tuning advice for a base 91oct map.
In genaral, you can run race gas on 91 oct map (with little or no gain) but you NEVER want to run 91 gas on a race gas map.
So, if you use Shiv's tuning guide to make a new map, store that map as your map # 2 in your XEDE and use it ONLY with race gas.
__________________
Jason
03 Evo VIII Vishnu-tuned - (sold)
G35 sedan
In genaral, you can run race gas on 91 oct map (with little or no gain) but you NEVER want to run 91 gas on a race gas map.
So, if you use Shiv's tuning guide to make a new map, store that map as your map # 2 in your XEDE and use it ONLY with race gas.
I believe that unleaded 100 oct will give u a lil more power with no tuning. I have seen it first hand at tuning tech. Lil Joes car from Vegas gained 20 + when 100 oct was added to his 91 tune and my car gained almost 20 whp when VP 109 was put in my tank on my 100 oct map.
fwiw The car is designed to run on 94 oct so if u put in 100 oct and some 91 is still in the tank I believe u will see 10 to 20 whp depending on the car and tune. When I was stock I used to mix 100 and 91 oct regularly and I could tell the difference with the butt dyno.
__________________
I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And For that 11 sec or less it takes me to devour one I am free.
For the lowest load rows, we now put in "0%"s instead of the usual 100%. This is because it is more friendly to the boost driver in the XEDE to not power the boost control solenoid at all than to keep it wide open under low load. For v2 users, just keep the lowest load row (below 10 for instance) set to 0. For v3, keep the rows below 25 kept to zero. Make sense?
. Will the bleeder valve work for my bigger turbo? I have one from my stock turbo setup.
