94AWDcoupe

iTrader: (125)

Airflow through core to radiator is far improved on tube and fin. Its not about fin density. its about how the air gets around the tubes. Air flows past a tube very well. bars suck for this. You will never see an airplane wing with a square leading edge. it wont stay in the air.

Tube and fin is more expensive to manufacture. And far less flexible at making different sizes. These are two big reasons aftermarket cooler are bar and plate.

Bar and plate is far stronger but also far more prone to leaks. the design just doesnt seal well. Small leaks are known to be acceptable for bar and plate. sucks when that leak is in the middle of that 5 inch core and you cant get a tube of super glue on it. Tube and fin seals way better by design. And it takes an impact far better. you can bent the crap out of tube and fin core and they stay sealed. this is the cooler of preference to both manufactures and off road rally cross for these reasons.

the stock intercooler is tube and fin. it works very well for 400whp applications. it only weighs 9.5 lbs so it is small. little known info but the stock core actually works better than an AMS street core. I did a back to back on my car and was shocked. i have no data for it. But did find a shop that posted on here the same results. he was on AEM and had the data posted. The stock cooler had less pressure drop and cooled better. He had track results and AEM logs to back it all up.

Thick heavy coolers are a good heat sink, but bad at rejecting temp. Dave posted on the dyno a temp rise of 3-4 degrees on forth gear pull. also reported on street car at track that figure rose to 25 degree rise for same cooler. Once you get the heat on the cooler you have to get it off for reaped pulls. Tube and fin is better for this. thinner designs are better as well.

lets compare a 1/16th thick tube runners (light) to 1/8th thick bar n plate (heavy).
if fin density is same between both cores. the tube and fin will have far better heat rejection over the bar and plate. heat transfers far slower through that thick aluminum. therefore the thick aluminum would need far more external fins to compensate. this further impedes flow through the core.

A crude estimate of how the HKS core may compare to the garret. On dyno the garret core sees temp rise only 3-4 degrees. but on street the rise goes to 25 after repeated pulls. The HKS on dyno sees 6-7 degree rise. But on the street after repeated pulls it sees a rise of 15 degrees. This is just educated estimate from data I have seen between stock and AMS bar and plate street.

Tekisnail

My gawd, those fins are toasted!

QuickEvo9

So has it been confirmed this was infact a true HKS intercooler. I have one on my 9 and it works very well.

Was it installed correctly? It looks like the top was pulled pretty hard.

arpad

iTrader: (26)

any chance somebody could repost the original pics please?

Speedlimit

Hi,

You can try to PM the OP since this is a 4 year old thread. The thread starter was still active in July.

Bob

kidkombo

iTrader: (1)

....fast forward like 10 years later HAHH.....


i would also like to see pics of the damaged fins because my HKS type r core out of no where split on the top tube....no signs of impact or getting hit as it was covered by the actual bumper......i might have gotten one during this phase bad cores....

RallySport9

iTrader: (20)

I cant believe this was a genuine hks intercooler, or at least damaged before hand. I have the hks r-type intercooler kit and its great no issues running 700 hp.

EVO GOES VROOM

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