UTEC Help Runing Rich At Idle

ArchieBabes · Mar 11, 2007, 07:35 PM

Can anybody help me with my UTEC problems?

1. Car runs normaly and idles when I disconnect the UTEC and run it off the ECU.

2. When I connect the UTEC it will not idle, I also smell rich fumes outside. When you run the car its in limp mode.

3. You have to start up the car 3-4 times before it idles normal and runs.

Can anybody help me with the open loop settings?

Malibu Jack also pointed out that it takes a while before the UTEC Initializes?

I mean before it doesnt take 3-4 time to start up the car before it initializes. When you start up the car it automaticaly idlles normaly.

Is there any alternative to make the UTEC initialize the first time?

I already change to a new battery, and its still doing the same thing. I also took out my grounding wires.

Thanks

-Archie

MalibuJack · Mar 11, 2007, 09:50 PM

Well, if you turn the key, wait for the CEL light to flash the amount of times of your map (or wait 3-5 seconds) it should work.

In really cold weather the battery voltage is slightly low, and seems to cause the UTEC to take longer to initialize.

If turning the key on, and waiting a few seconds before you crank the engine doesn't help the problem, then you might have a problem with the UTEC, which means you would first reflash its firmware, and if that doesn't help, send it to TurboXS for testing.

What your seeing is something I would see on occasion if I turned my key and cranked the engine before letting the UTEC initialize, it would go into open loop and stay there. Depending on how goofy your base tune is from the ECU, the background ECU map may be rich or lean and cause your car to run accordingly in an entirely open loop ECU function.

I recall early on it had something to do with one of the sensors (either the MAF or O2) output wasn't initialized when the car was first started causing this, and by waiting for the UTEC would initialize all of the sensors and its outputs to the ECU.

Not alot you can do about it if this is indeed the case. The more complex the code in the UTEC becomes, the more likely this will turn up (if/when we get new updates)

MalibuJack · Mar 11, 2007, 09:53 PM

FWIW this actually did happen to me more frequently in very cold weather with my mini-battery.

But I don't drive the car often anymore, so I keep a battery tender on it and haven't had an issue, but I also got into the habit of waiting a 2-3 seconds before i cranked the engine after turning the key, and I'm almost religious about it regardless of what car I'm driving.

ArchieBabes · Mar 11, 2007, 10:39 PM

Thanks Malibu Jack,

If I flash it would that erase all of the maps and settings?

I currenlty have the 1.7 firmware installed, so do you mean that run the 1.7 firmware flash again?

Let me know

Thanks

ArchieBabes · Mar 11, 2007, 10:47 PM

Also, do you think that an open circuit or power line would cause this delay in initialization?

MalibuJack · Mar 12, 2007, 09:13 AM

possibly, but it depends on the open circuit.

Yes, reflash with the same version firmware, back up your parameters and maps the same way you would normally save everything, reflash the firmware, then load all of it back in.. you will lose everything if you don't save it somewhere on your PC

ArchieBabes · Mar 12, 2007, 07:37 PM

Found the problem!

1. My turbo timer is causing the UTEC not to initialize.

2. The UTEC is not properly grounded to the chassy. I put in all three bolts and tighten it to secure a good ground to the chassy.

Problem went away, UTEC initializes the minute you turn the key.

Now my only problem is the cold start issues.

I read somewhere that you need to add 25 fuel to 0 2000 for it to cold start?

Thanks

-Archie

MalibuJack · Mar 12, 2007, 09:31 PM

Yeah thats actually not an uncommon problem.

Cold start, well, you REALLY need to spend some time logging the stock ECU for your fuel trims, either use a Tactrix cable and Mitsulogger or use an OBD-II scantool that gives you real time sensor data, you'd be surprised to see how far your trims are off.

At that point you can make the appropriate adjustments. Are you recirculating a BOV? Does it have a light spring and is it open at idle? These all can affect airflow at idle and really screw with your fuel trims.

Finally once you know that, you can either flash your idle speed and other minor mods to the ECU, or make adjustments to your BISS so your idle speed is at 1000rpm, that will help a bit.