GreedMOTO

iTrader: (3)

Hey, hey all.

After two weeks of waiting, I finally received the letter from HKS USA concerning the HKS SSQ BOV and our Evolutions.

In this letter, I requested information about:

-The proper setting on the BOV.
-The mysterious stalling and bogging issues concerning the valve in recirc or VTA.
-The final word on the fluttering ... normal or not normal.
-Are all HKS SSQ BOV's universal?

Here it is....I hope this helps all of us and puts many rumors to rest concerning the HKS SSQ BOV.

__________________________________________________ _________________


thank you for contacting us regarding your HSK Super Sequential Blow-Off Valve. I hope the following answers your questions.

1.) The blow-off valve should never make any sound while accelerating. The only time it should ever be audible is when it's activated by throttle lifts. There are some cars that will experience a vacuum/pressure/vacuum/pressure change in the manifold under part-throttle lifts. This rapid positive to negative pressure change can cause the valve to open and closed repeatedly, giving you this "fluttering" sound that you described.

2.) Yes, all of the Super Sequential Blow-Off Valves are universal, and all of our vehicle specific kits use the same valve.

3.) If you are recirculation the valve on your EVO and are still experience "stumbling" problems, I would check the installation. Make sure the rubber O-ring is in good condition and is seated properly. The second thing to check is the C-clip (expansion ring). The C-clip has a top and bottom to it. If you look closely one side has a flat surface, and the other side has a round surface, be sure that the flat side goes towards the flange (O-ring side) and the round side towards the valve. You will need C-clip pliers (expansion ring pliers) to do this.

4.) Do not touch the nut on the back of the valve ! (I wish we never put that on there ! ) Adjusting that nut does NOT change the opening rate, efficiency or timing of the valve. HKS valves are "pull-type" valves, meaning they have to "pull" open against the boost for them to open. The more boost you run, the more the boost pushes them closed. Some vehicles have more vacuum than others. If high enough, it is possible for a vehicle's vacuum at idle to accidentally pull the valve open, causing a vacuum leak. It is for this reason that HKS employees an adjustment nut on the back of the valve to allow the spring tension to be adjusted, ensuring that the valve is closed and not leaking while the vehicle is idling. If you have played with this nut, I would suggest getting it back to the middle adjusting point while being VERY careful NOT to let the nut fall out, or turn it too tight as to puncture a hole in the blow -off valve diaphragm. As long as it's not leaking at idle, your fine.

5.) To test your blow-off valve, start the car, let it idle, and open the hood. While looking at the valve, rev the car quickly once and stop. Although no boost is ever generated at idle, this throttle on-off sequence should be enough to engage the blow-off valve, and you should be able to se the valve actually open and then close. If it does not do this, check all that I have mentioned above.

If you are still in need of assistance, please feel free to contact us.

Thanks

NOVA EVO

Thanks for posting that, dude!

Not too much I didn't already know, but at least they explained everything...now we have it straight from HKS...

bigric09

iTrader: (37)

yeah, thank you for posting that, it was a lot of information most of us knew but at least we know its not us...the only thing i'd have to check is the c-ring. im pretty positive my valve isn't leakin under idle, although when i rev the car in neutral is when i get my stalling issues. im back to VTA now, and its ok, the only problems im having are again, in 1st gear or something and when i have to make a quick stop or maybe might spool up a bit and not use the boost at all... but oh well, i will check things when i get home and see what happens

GreedMOTO

iTrader: (3)

I know more people need this...with so many threads on this subject...I hope this helps more people than me.

MrBonus

iTrader: (4)

I was digging through the forum looking for opinions on this valve (As my stocker is leaking and the Turbosmart Dual Port didn't fit when we tried to install it) and found this:

I hope this is helpful in any way on top of the original post.

BuLocal

iTrader: (4)

GreedMOTO, nice post!

dannylee

Are you sure fluttering is normal? I have heard that's compressor surge on the turbo because the setting is too strong... Not that I have the HKS (I have the GReddy bov)...

justrick

iTrader: (1)

FWIW im using a txs valve that is a suction type and was experiencing that really crappy stumbling --surging and stalling,,,,

it was set too hard,

1. the air was not being recirculated at low throttle lifts
2. that air is already accounted for by the ecu
3. the lack of that air causes a rich condition (verified by wideband O2)
4. the rich condition causes ecu to compensate
5. low rpm stalling and stumbling is the result

i adjusted till it went away, and still closed all the way at idle....works like a champ
regards rick

RuckerPark

iTrader: (66)

If you want to run full VTA style on the SSQV and to prevent stalling or stumbling issues, you guys might want to check out the HKS EIDS system. It is listed on their website as well. Its the Type-K version. A friend of mine had this installed and it cured the issues. Its about $135 for this unit. He got it from Gruppe-S, IIRC.

Good luck guys!

Nez136

iTrader: (10)

I might not totally agree w/ HKS, I have the Valve and it wasn't working right because the Diaphram was corroded ( because of rain entering through the hood) i took the Valve TOTALLY apart, oiled some parts, but when i put it back together i tightend the Nut all the way which would stiffen the spring as tight as it could go. that was about 4 months ago, now i VTA at 21 psi, but i have a EMS, and the car runs great. It flutters in low RPMs but thats it.
point im trying to make is that the nut does make a difference (tightens spring)

sorry for the spelling

UndieStainz

This is awesome info guys,...I just installed mine last weekend (hks) and I like it but the whole screw, spring thing is very good to know. It runs perfect with its stock setting, idle is perfect, etc.

EvO WiD StYLeZ

Is it really worth getting a HKS SSBOV for an Evo?.. I mean will it last the long run? I know theres a recirc. kit available for it but will it run as smoothly as the Greddy Type-S (which, I heard, also works better with one of the two springs removed from it). I know the sound that the HKS produces is awesome but can I get it and expect the best performance from my car? really confused?

2k4EvoVIII

iTrader: (15)

HKS valves are the best. Infact you only have 3 options for high boost applications the HKS Racing Type II and the Greddy R and the Apexi Racing. All are good but the HKS Racing Type II is very expensive!! I paid $386 and that was a deal.

I think the whole design of the HKS BOV's are unbeatable. IMO

Chris

EVO222

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the great info! I've ran the hks bov both recirculate and vta. In both applications, I've experienced drop in rpm (did not stall once) at quick lift off of the throttle but if you feather it, no probs at all. Fluttering in both applications also, not high crisp pitch sound, it kinda echos. Right now I'm running VTA, holds boost really good, no leaks, the only complaint would be the fluttering sound, but i can live with it.

GreedMOTO

iTrader: (3)

Kinda glad this post is back from the dead....I KNEW more people needed to read it.