bnice01

iTrader: (4)

This is just a cheap way to hold more boost, by far one of the oldest tricks for internal wastegate. This will be simple and quick but feel free to ask questions.

Parts needs:
-Spring Assortment (Help part # 59001) can be purchased at Auto Zone, Advance etc.
-needle nose pliers
-12mm socket or wrench (optional)

Steps

1. Remove your stock wga (If the lower heat shield is still on you have to remove it before removing your wga, also it is optional to remove the wga. You may benefit just adding the spring and can skip to step 4)

- Take your needle nose pull the cotter pin out that holds the wga arm to the exhaust flapper and slid the eyelid off (turnbuckle)
- Remove the two 12 mm bolts that attach the wga to the turbo
- Remove the vaccum line attached

2. Now that you have the wga out. Locate the eyelid (turnbuckle) at the end of the wga. There is a little nut below it loosen it and adjust according (these are suggestions):

- 22 psi and below can skip step the wga removal and press on to step 4
- 23-26 psi rotate the eye lid 1- 1 1/2 rotations
- 27-30+ psi rotate the eye lid until it cant rotate any more (may have to turn it back a hair to get it to mount back correctly)
-Tighten the nut back

3. Mount WGA

- attach the wga back to the turbo
- tigheten the 12 mm bolts
- pull the eyelid over the exhaust flapper arm
- slid the cotter back in
- attach the vaccum line to wga nipple. Now it may take a little strength to get the eyelid on the exhaust flapper arm but "man up"

4. Find your Help Spring Assortment that you purchased from the parts store. Choose the following spring below out of the 5.



5. (Get your needle nose pliers) Take one end of the spring hook place it on the ring/lip of the wga, and pull the other end with your needle nose on the exhaust arm flapper (the same stud the eyelid slid on). Be careful with this



6. Check to see were your WGA is set @. You can do this by simply taking the input and output of your mbc or ebc and place a vacuum connector to connect the 2 vacuum lines. I get about 15-16 psi straight wga pressure; my eyelid is turned all the way down. 3rd gear pull I spike around 30psi and taper to 26ish psi @ 7500 and 4th spikes to 30 and sits there I think it tapers to 28ish. Dont quote me because i really dont remember, since I like to keep my eyes on the road going that fast. But I know for a fact it sits @ 30 psi for a while.

I dont want to take credit for this mod, since its as old as me probably , just sharing some old tricks.

Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

good stuff

dudical26

iTrader: (17)

Nice write-up, thanks

How many turns did you do in order to reach that boost?

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

as far as the eyelid could go down, i think its 4 full turns but dont quote its been a while since I did it and dont remember were its set @ for stock. But thanks guys for the compliments

if the pix are little bad, sorry I took them with my camera phone @ work. Went to the parts store during lunch and had a little free time so I decided to do this for you guys.

Spinsall4

iTrader: (10)

def a old time mod but a good mod at that. I remember this from back in the 1g dsm days.

mifesto

iTrader: (58)

i know supra guys do this but its known to blow the stock twins fairly quickly

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

hmm i dont know about that unless they are running super duty spring = no wga opening, I see quite a few supra's @ my last base do this same mod as well as the supra in town. But I'm not saying your wrong, just i never heard of it. I did this on my srt-4 and now the evo. Sometimes you have to hold the installer @ fault when a mod is known to work with years of success.

Mad_SB

iTrader: (8)

To ease the process of getting eyelet back on the flapper, use some compressed air on the actuator input, this will push the rod all the way out so you can slide it on easy as pie

Ralph

iTrader: (19)

Used to do this on my SRT-4, good stuff. haha.

dudical26

iTrader: (17)

Hey, very cool idea. I'll try that for sure.

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

hell yeah man good idea

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

well I tuned an evo for race gas this weekend. added the spring, on top of adjusting the bov, spike around 27-28psi and taper about 25.5-26 @ redline. held 27 all the way threw the mid-range.

anyone else have feedback

once my friend posts up the vid I did a 4th gear pull. spike around 30 and taper to 29 @ redline. by the way i'm not on "stock" turbo. I had an extra stock turbo laying around. so I bought a 6-blade 20g wheel for about $150. ported the compressor housing with a dremel, while measuring the compressor wheel/compressor inlet with a dial cailber. had the turbo balanced by Gpopshop. So that's a little info on my situation. Still stock wga with the spring mod, and crushed MR BOV.

Ralph

iTrader: (19)

Anyone have any stock IX turbo dynographs with this spring mod in place? Was wondering how much power is to gain by forcing the boost to hold..

BUMP

dudical26

iTrader: (17)

Its not really a question of HP since that will depend so much on mods, gas, etc...

The really question is how much more boot you can hold till redline.

hellcat

iTrader: (4)

I am all over this..lol So if we do this mod and are running a fail safe with Meth, we should still fall to bout 16 psi or so when fail safe kicks in? Poor mans WGA FTW!!!