Another Partial HSF-5 Install w/ Pics
Sep 5, 2007, 06:26 PM
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Another Partial HSF-5 Install w/ Pics
Just wanted to get some more pics out there of the Aquamist system install, with reasoning of why the hard parts are mounted where they are, and some options that I haven't seen many use before.
First up is the tank/pump mounting location.
I've relocated my battery to the trunk for better weight distribution already, and the back of the trunk (where most people mount their tanks, thanks to Abner
) wasn't really not an option. I decided to mount the feed to the pump on the bottom of the tank, because I'm confident I can keep trash from entering with the fresh meth. This location offers easy access to the fill port, and I can easily put a funnel with filter media (probably use some poypropylene disc filters from work) for easy, trash free filling of the tank. I put the level sensor towards the back of the car, so that I don't get a violent meth cut and boost cut on low level during acceleration. My light should come on during breaking, when no meth/boost is happening, and I'll get a friendly reminder to check tank level. I went with a 4qt. tank (sorry Abner), so I have to refill often. Call me ****, but I want a constant reminder the level indicator is functioning properly. I can always add a second tank or upsize the one I've got, there's plenty of room for that. The tank is mounted by two points attached to the framework of the car on the right side of the tank. I ran a diagonal piece of aluminum strip (1/8" X 1") to create a third mounting point on the left side of the tank. Yes it flexes a bit and you can move the tank a little if you force it, but it's stable enough not for me to be concerned.
Next up is the DDS3 mounting location.
It fits fine in the ashtray and I'm a non smoker. Hope you are to for your healths sake!
Let's not talk about the type of alcohol fit for human consumption though 
You will need to make a mounting plate (I used simple 1/8" thick clear plastic from Lowe's covered with black duct tape) cut to fit a 52 mm gauge. So little of the duct tape shows you'll never know how ghetto it is 
You'll also need to cut out the bottom of the ash tray to recess the gauge enough if you plan on closing the lid of the ashtray. I hate steering column mounts and dash mounts, and I just couldnt' find anywhere else to mount it within easy reach. It's a personal preference in the end, so wherever you like is a good spot for the gauge.
Next is a custom bracket made to mount the high speed valve and flow sensor.
The tabs bolted to the valve cover are left over stock Evo Mitsu parts taken off during other installs. I don't remember where they came from though. The base plate is left over 1/8" X 1" aluminum strip used to mount the tank. The hardware supplied by Aquamist to mount the high speed valve is ingenious! So mounting the HSV was a piece of cake. I chose to put some sticky backed foam under the flow sensor to cut down on any vibration the sensor might experience and throw off the reading leading to erroneous readings and premature failsafe activation. I couldn't come up with good mounting bracket for the flow sensor, so I just zip tied it tight. It's very snug and won't move around, but I do believe this style of mounting will cut down tremendously on vibration the sensor sees . Didn't think about how the engine moves alot during shifting until after the fact, so that might be an issue with the mounting location and accurate performance of the HSV and flow sensor. We'll see......
Yes the car is filthy, I know. It's been raining here almost daily since January, so cut a bro some slack!! I plan on doing a thorough cleaning when the engine comes out (that's a different thread).
Just wanted to share the pics and the logic behind them. Hope it gives some of you some new ideas.
First up is the tank/pump mounting location.
I've relocated my battery to the trunk for better weight distribution already, and the back of the trunk (where most people mount their tanks, thanks to Abner
) wasn't really not an option. I decided to mount the feed to the pump on the bottom of the tank, because I'm confident I can keep trash from entering with the fresh meth. This location offers easy access to the fill port, and I can easily put a funnel with filter media (probably use some poypropylene disc filters from work) for easy, trash free filling of the tank. I put the level sensor towards the back of the car, so that I don't get a violent meth cut and boost cut on low level during acceleration. My light should come on during breaking, when no meth/boost is happening, and I'll get a friendly reminder to check tank level. I went with a 4qt. tank (sorry Abner), so I have to refill often. Call me ****, but I want a constant reminder the level indicator is functioning properly. I can always add a second tank or upsize the one I've got, there's plenty of room for that. The tank is mounted by two points attached to the framework of the car on the right side of the tank. I ran a diagonal piece of aluminum strip (1/8" X 1") to create a third mounting point on the left side of the tank. Yes it flexes a bit and you can move the tank a little if you force it, but it's stable enough not for me to be concerned.Next up is the DDS3 mounting location.
It fits fine in the ashtray and I'm a non smoker. Hope you are to for your healths sake!
Let's not talk about the type of alcohol fit for human consumption though You will need to make a mounting plate (I used simple 1/8" thick clear plastic from Lowe's covered with black duct tape) cut to fit a 52 mm gauge. So little of the duct tape shows you'll never know how ghetto it is You'll also need to cut out the bottom of the ash tray to recess the gauge enough if you plan on closing the lid of the ashtray. I hate steering column mounts and dash mounts, and I just couldnt' find anywhere else to mount it within easy reach. It's a personal preference in the end, so wherever you like is a good spot for the gauge.Next is a custom bracket made to mount the high speed valve and flow sensor.
The tabs bolted to the valve cover are left over stock Evo Mitsu parts taken off during other installs. I don't remember where they came from though. The base plate is left over 1/8" X 1" aluminum strip used to mount the tank. The hardware supplied by Aquamist to mount the high speed valve is ingenious! So mounting the HSV was a piece of cake. I chose to put some sticky backed foam under the flow sensor to cut down on any vibration the sensor might experience and throw off the reading leading to erroneous readings and premature failsafe activation. I couldn't come up with good mounting bracket for the flow sensor, so I just zip tied it tight. It's very snug and won't move around, but I do believe this style of mounting will cut down tremendously on vibration the sensor sees . Didn't think about how the engine moves alot during shifting until after the fact, so that might be an issue with the mounting location and accurate performance of the HSV and flow sensor. We'll see......
Yes the car is filthy, I know. It's been raining here almost daily since January, so cut a bro some slack!! I plan on doing a thorough cleaning when the engine comes out (that's a different thread).
Just wanted to share the pics and the logic behind them. Hope it gives some of you some new ideas.
Sep 5, 2007, 07:13 PM
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Idiot LED's.....
Top LED will light up when the system is spraying, it's green. It will come on at the same time the "W injection" light comes on on the DDS3 gauge. I have a bypass switch, so that I can run high boost without meth. If I flip the bypass switch, that will also complete the circuit to the LED to light it up. So in essence, if the light is on, I'm either spraying meth and in boost, or the bypass mode is active, and the light will always be on. That's as close to idiot proof as I can think of. I also have a Utec, and can easily switch Utec maps to another one that's tuned for non meth use, but high boost, so that's why I have the bypass switch. Dudical26 has a very similar setup, and that's where I got the idea and wiring diagram. Thanks dood! The bottom LED is red, and it'll light the same time the low tank levle level light comes on. These are your typical 12v LED's from radio shack. Not sure if they're really designed for 0-5 V like dashlights, but when you hit them with 12 V's, they're bright as hell. Can't miss them, even in direct sunlight. Keeps me from having to look down at the ashtray while driving......
Top LED will light up when the system is spraying, it's green. It will come on at the same time the "W injection" light comes on on the DDS3 gauge. I have a bypass switch, so that I can run high boost without meth. If I flip the bypass switch, that will also complete the circuit to the LED to light it up. So in essence, if the light is on, I'm either spraying meth and in boost, or the bypass mode is active, and the light will always be on. That's as close to idiot proof as I can think of. I also have a Utec, and can easily switch Utec maps to another one that's tuned for non meth use, but high boost, so that's why I have the bypass switch. Dudical26 has a very similar setup, and that's where I got the idea and wiring diagram. Thanks dood!
The bottom LED is red, and it'll light the same time the low tank levle level light comes on. These are your typical 12v LED's from radio shack. Not sure if they're really designed for 0-5 V like dashlights, but when you hit them with 12 V's, they're bright as hell. Can't miss them, even in direct sunlight. Keeps me from having to look down at the ashtray while driving......
Last edited by dubbleugly01; Sep 5, 2007 at 07:16 PM.
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Sep 9, 2007, 04:54 PM
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Very neat install - novel place to put the gauge - nice !
I am a little bit concern regarding the location of the HSV and flow sensor. You have heat and vibration and it may not do the two components good long term.
Do you have an alternative site for them? It does looks so good on the engine, easily be mistaken for as an a OE item.
I am a little bit concern regarding the location of the HSV and flow sensor. You have heat and vibration and it may not do the two components good long term.
Do you have an alternative site for them? It does looks so good on the engine, easily be mistaken for as an a OE item.
Sep 9, 2007, 06:09 PM
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Very neat install - novel place to put the gauge - nice !
I am a little bit concern regarding the location of the HSV and flow sensor. You have heat and vibration and it may not do the two components good long term.
Do you have an alternative site for them? It does looks so good on the engine, easily be mistaken for as an a OE item.
I am a little bit concern regarding the location of the HSV and flow sensor. You have heat and vibration and it may not do the two components good long term.
Do you have an alternative site for them? It does looks so good on the engine, easily be mistaken for as an a OE item.
Not sure if I'm moving them yet or not, I might just see how long they last there. I have to think, with the hood vent, that while moving this area should be relatively cool. If not, I'll most likely move them to the firewall, as low as possible to get away from the fact that "heat rises".
Here's my nozzle placements:
I wanted them as close to the HSV/flow sensor as I could resonably get, to cut down on any lag issues. And have immediate flow.
Here's a pic of the DDS3 at night, kinda cool....
And here's a shameless vendor plug
Note the red switch, that's the bypass around the failsafe, so that I can run high boost without the Aquamist system activated. My failsafe kicks wastegate pressure down to 14#'s, which is too low for a good tune on pump gas, but very safe. I can bypass the Aquamist/Mac solenoid valve so that I can run high boost on a different map dictated by the Utec (TurboXs) you can barely see in the background behind the glove box.
Sep 10, 2007, 05:11 AM
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I'm not an EVO owner but I did get a look at Alex's car (dudical). IMO a good spot is directly behind the intake on the firewall. In the image posted of the engine compartment it would be below where the strut bar ties into the firewall. Another spot would be nearer the brake booster or L/S inner fender apron.......I would move it now to protect the flow sensor and HSV from excessive heat, if you need some line because your out let me know and I'll get some shipped out to you.....I do not have a lot but a couple of feet is all thats needed.
Sep 10, 2007, 07:19 PM
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If anyone knows of an Aquamist kit purchaser/installer/user thinking putting the HSV and the flow sensor near any high heat please let them know to contact myself or Richard for advice and recommendations.
It's important to keep these components in locations that are away from high heat and in a spot that gets some airflow.
This is a prime example of users posting up info with images so that all benefit from the install experience. If you have kit and are going to install keep a camera handy, the more people sharing info the easier things will be......another thing is that users can get an individual's shared idea that may help another installer.......like the console gauge location and the dash LED's & the tank pump setup......some may prefer these.
Great thread
It's important to keep these components in locations that are away from high heat and in a spot that gets some airflow.
This is a prime example of users posting up info with images so that all benefit from the install experience. If you have kit and are going to install keep a camera handy, the more people sharing info the easier things will be......another thing is that users can get an individual's shared idea that may help another installer.......like the console gauge location and the dash LED's & the tank pump setup......some may prefer these.
Great thread
Last edited by aqmist; Sep 10, 2007 at 07:22 PM.
