Pumpless/wireless (almost) HFS-5 install
#1
Pumpless/wireless (almost) HFS-5 install
If milo's install is supersized, then mine's a happy meal
I only plan to inject water or a very low concentration of alcohol so a gallon tank will do me fine.
I really wanted the install to be as minimalistic looking as possible and tried very hard to hide as much of it as possible, which isn't easy with a bare RS trunk.
Anyway, on to the pictures:
Now where did I install it again?
Oh there it is!
Closer look...
I was very proud of using the pre-existing hole in the trunk to run the harness to the float sensor with as little wire showing as possible:
Here is the wiring and hose routing, as factory looking as I could make it...
and the other side of the trunk...
Thanks so much for all of the help online with installing this kit. While I'm not quite done (I'm close), I couldn't have done it without the posts of SlowCar, dudical's excellent install guide, Richard's unbelievably prompt and abundant supply of technical help here and on the SRT forum, Jack Blalock and others. This is an intimidating kit when you get it, but there is so much help on line that even someone like me can install it.
I hope to get it running and tuned within the next week or two.
Thanks again everyone!
I only plan to inject water or a very low concentration of alcohol so a gallon tank will do me fine.
I really wanted the install to be as minimalistic looking as possible and tried very hard to hide as much of it as possible, which isn't easy with a bare RS trunk.
Anyway, on to the pictures:
Now where did I install it again?
Oh there it is!
Closer look...
I was very proud of using the pre-existing hole in the trunk to run the harness to the float sensor with as little wire showing as possible:
Here is the wiring and hose routing, as factory looking as I could make it...
and the other side of the trunk...
Thanks so much for all of the help online with installing this kit. While I'm not quite done (I'm close), I couldn't have done it without the posts of SlowCar, dudical's excellent install guide, Richard's unbelievably prompt and abundant supply of technical help here and on the SRT forum, Jack Blalock and others. This is an intimidating kit when you get it, but there is so much help on line that even someone like me can install it.
I hope to get it running and tuned within the next week or two.
Thanks again everyone!
#3
Thanks, Jordan.
One thing I forgot to mention is that I got the tank from usplastic.com. It is very good quality and cost $10.50. The cap was $2. Shipping was about $6. It's very easy to order from them since you can just place the order through their website. You can get status of the order online, so you know exactly where you stand on processing, shipping, etc. It was a quick and painless process to get it.
One thing I forgot to mention is that I got the tank from usplastic.com. It is very good quality and cost $10.50. The cap was $2. Shipping was about $6. It's very easy to order from them since you can just place the order through their website. You can get status of the order online, so you know exactly where you stand on processing, shipping, etc. It was a quick and painless process to get it.
Last edited by EVO8LTW; Sep 1, 2007 at 05:04 AM.
#7
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clean install...do you have to use like a gas jug with a long neck to fill that? I know its kinda tight in that area...did you put the pump down in the area behind the tank?
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#8
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Here's where I mounted the DDS3, there just isn't any extra room on the dash for more stuff. I'm not particularly found of A pillars, steering column or dash mounts. Plan on mounting a small led that lights up when the system is spraying by the tach, sorta like an idiot light.
#9
Also, in the event that I do run a high concentration of alcohol in there, I have a small crush zone with this approach before the tank would rupture.
Last edited by EVO8LTW; Sep 2, 2007 at 05:16 PM.
#10
While you can't tell from the pictures, there's tons of room to fill it. It's not awkward at all with the tank on the floor of the trunk. The pump is behind the tank down low in that cavity. It's bolted to the sheet metal toward the outside of the car. It's a very tight fit next to the vent, but it will fit without removing the vent (which I didn't want to do).
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One issue, you have your float sensor mounted on the front side of the tank. With it setup like this, when you accelerate, the liquid will go to the back of the tank and trip your low tank sensor. You will only be able to run the tank to about 1/4 full before you will need to refill.
#13
One issue, you have your float sensor mounted on the front side of the tank. With it setup like this, when you accelerate, the liquid will go to the back of the tank and trip your low tank sensor. You will only be able to run the tank to about 1/4 full before you will need to refill.
#15
Woo-hoo! Kit is fully installed and functional
I started with the .8 and .9 jets with the 600cc restrictor and did my initial testing on straight water.
With the SC set to about 2 o'clock, I light up all but a couple bars on the flow meter once the system kicks in. I have my trip pot set to about 1 to 2 o'clock.
Failsafe is spliced into the ground wire of my dual solenoid EBC and works just like it's supposed to.
With the water spraying full tilt, the AFRs seem the same and the car seems to pull just like usual. I thought it would bog and lose power with nozzles this big and straight water? (I was expecting to have to order smaller nozzles or use only one.) I also didn't think I'd have more than a couple bars showing on the flow meter even with the SC set full clockwise, due to the 600 cc restrictor? I'm not complaining!!!
Anyhow, I'll be interested to see the effect of the water when the car hits the dyno. Not sure if I'm going to add any alcohol or not.
One question, I see tiny bubbles in the lines between the y and the nozzles. Is this normal? They aren't big bubbles. It just looks like I'm injecting slightly carbonated water. The tubes before the y don't look like this as far as I can tell. I have detected no leaks anyway (at least not once I fixed the one I had on the inlet of the pump head). I put a paper towel under the pump assembly and it came out dry after my lengthy test run
I started with the .8 and .9 jets with the 600cc restrictor and did my initial testing on straight water.
With the SC set to about 2 o'clock, I light up all but a couple bars on the flow meter once the system kicks in. I have my trip pot set to about 1 to 2 o'clock.
Failsafe is spliced into the ground wire of my dual solenoid EBC and works just like it's supposed to.
With the water spraying full tilt, the AFRs seem the same and the car seems to pull just like usual. I thought it would bog and lose power with nozzles this big and straight water? (I was expecting to have to order smaller nozzles or use only one.) I also didn't think I'd have more than a couple bars showing on the flow meter even with the SC set full clockwise, due to the 600 cc restrictor? I'm not complaining!!!
Anyhow, I'll be interested to see the effect of the water when the car hits the dyno. Not sure if I'm going to add any alcohol or not.
One question, I see tiny bubbles in the lines between the y and the nozzles. Is this normal? They aren't big bubbles. It just looks like I'm injecting slightly carbonated water. The tubes before the y don't look like this as far as I can tell. I have detected no leaks anyway (at least not once I fixed the one I had on the inlet of the pump head). I put a paper towel under the pump assembly and it came out dry after my lengthy test run