Quick pics of HFS-5 Install
Jun 17, 2007, 02:31 PM
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Quick pics of HFS-5 Install
I have nearly finished my HFS-5 install and I wanted to toss up a couple pics of how things are looking so far. When its all done I will have a detailed write up so this is just a bit of a preview.
MANY MORE PICS CAN BE FOUND HERE
My Install Guide
Wires ran in loom under door sills
DDS3 and FIA2 mounted in glove box
DDS3 gauge
Edit:
I spent a little more time working on the project last night.
I added a switch that allows me to manually disable my failsafe solenoid so that I can choose to run high boost without the HFS-5 turned on (for race gas)
The switch is shown closed(failsafe active)
I also lowered the meth tank so it sits lower on the bracket and I cleaned up the wires in the trunk a bit more.
MANY MORE PICS CAN BE FOUND HERE
My Install Guide
Wires ran in loom under door sills
DDS3 and FIA2 mounted in glove box
DDS3 gauge
Edit:
I spent a little more time working on the project last night.
I added a switch that allows me to manually disable my failsafe solenoid so that I can choose to run high boost without the HFS-5 turned on (for race gas)
The switch is shown closed(failsafe active)
I also lowered the meth tank so it sits lower on the bracket and I cleaned up the wires in the trunk a bit more.
Last edited by dudical26; Aug 9, 2007 at 05:42 AM.
Jun 17, 2007, 04:42 PM
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Hey just noticed, do you want a straight fitting to replace the 90 degree swivel for the pump supply......looks like it might help to make a straight from the filter to the pump?
Jun 17, 2007, 04:55 PM
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The pod is what comes with a DEFI BLUE RACER gauge. my friend bought a blue racer gauge and did not need the pod so he gave it to me. I would think that you could just buy them from Defi though.
Jun 17, 2007, 04:59 PM
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actually yes, that is why I have not connected the pump yet. I was hoping to get one from you when you got them in stock, last time you said you were waiting on them. When we get together soon to set up the gauge and tap the nozzle, may you can bring one.
Jun 17, 2007, 05:12 PM
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Aarrggg sorry for that, I did get some in and must have forgot about the conversation.
Also, did you say you wanted one of the new tanks I just got in, what I have is a 4qt not a six quart but it will work if you looking to add capacity? If so I'll make sure to save you one.
Also, did you say you wanted one of the new tanks I just got in, what I have is a 4qt not a six quart but it will work if you looking to add capacity? If so I'll make sure to save you one.
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Jun 20, 2007, 05:57 AM
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Great pictures of a great install.
PLease highlioght some probelm areas during the install. It will really help us to improve the instructions and components.
PLease highlioght some probelm areas during the install. It will really help us to improve the instructions and components.
Jun 20, 2007, 06:03 AM
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Abner - I will not be re-installing my liner as my trunk is totally empty for weight reasons, although I think it will still look pretty good. And thanks for the compliment; it means a lot considering how great a job you did on your install.
Richard - I have been working more on my write-up and install instructions. I am doing my best to help make the install as easy as possible for others. Unfortunately I have not yet installed my nozzles so I can not describe that process yet.
Richard - I have been working more on my write-up and install instructions. I am doing my best to help make the install as easy as possible for others. Unfortunately I have not yet installed my nozzles so I can not describe that process yet.
Jun 20, 2007, 06:52 AM
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If you guys want to take a look at what I have so far as a sort of rough draft for the write up I will post it here. Please let me know if you have any suggestions for it.
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Jun 20, 2007, 01:20 PM
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Richard - I thought of two suggestions for possible improvements.
Perhaps including 2 or 3 spare wires (I think there is currently only 1 spare wire) that can be used for failsafe solenoids or outputs to ECU's.
Also the hinges on the junction box case seem kinda flimsy and are tuff to close when there are a lot of wires going into the JB. I placed a zip tie around by JB to hold it closed without having it bulge out. Perhaps a slightly thicker plastic could be used.
Edit - Also what about relocating the fuse for the pump to be on the other end of the wire (near the battery). Otherwise you have a power line running through your car connected to the battery which is unfused untill it gets to like 6" before the pump.
Perhaps including 2 or 3 spare wires (I think there is currently only 1 spare wire) that can be used for failsafe solenoids or outputs to ECU's.
Also the hinges on the junction box case seem kinda flimsy and are tuff to close when there are a lot of wires going into the JB. I placed a zip tie around by JB to hold it closed without having it bulge out. Perhaps a slightly thicker plastic could be used.
Edit - Also what about relocating the fuse for the pump to be on the other end of the wire (near the battery). Otherwise you have a power line running through your car connected to the battery which is unfused untill it gets to like 6" before the pump.
Last edited by dudical26; Jun 20, 2007 at 01:23 PM.
Jun 20, 2007, 02:10 PM
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Thanks for the advice.
Spare wires are good idea. I will add them. The current box will changed soon. It is made with conductive plastic to avoid static electricity damage. I am currently looking for improvement on this side.
Fuse location is deliberate, I want the relay toto be audible when the fuse is removed so diagnosis is easier without having to power up the pump every time the relay clicks.
Spare wires are good idea. I will add them. The current box will changed soon. It is made with conductive plastic to avoid static electricity damage. I am currently looking for improvement on this side.
Fuse location is deliberate, I want the relay toto be audible when the fuse is removed so diagnosis is easier without having to power up the pump every time the relay clicks.