Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

I'm told that due to the fact that I'm running the stock turbo, I shouldn't have any noticable lag or bog issues. Anyone know contrary?

donmeca2020

iTrader: (2)

sgt blamo where in south florida you located ? and as i heard i wouldnt drop 280s in my car with a stock turbo because i heard it would have big effects. where do you go to have your car worked on? TSR or another shop

Mulholland0132

iTrader: (39)

347 whp Nice...you got me beat. You were obviously using a mbc besides BR turbo back and Al flash. You were running 20-21 boost right? I wonder why I left some horse and torque on the table when I last dynoed my car. Where did you dyno your car...and what kind of dyno? I was tuned and dynoed at Pruven in CT.

dafoe69

iTrader: (4)

I was also tuned at Pruven by Al. Sgt Blamo all the gears feel good my third gear pull peaked 347hp at 6500rpm and 352trq at 3750rpm. The lag down low isn't that noticeable. I recently added a BR race FMIC and Invidia O2 housing which helped with the lag.

dafoe69

iTrader: (4)

double post d'oh

6-speed

iTrader: (20)

There are people who have the Comp 280s on the stock turbo without any ill effect.

Check out TurboTrix's vendor page and search Comp 280s; there are a couple of good posts about the 280s.

I also remember Al from DynoFlash flashing a car with the Comp 280s and posting it in his vendor forum as a case study.

The idle I have with the Comp 280s and AEM EMS is slightly lumpy, just enough so you can hear and feel the car is cammed.

I have yet to really push it, but down low the car doesn't feel much different than stock.

Good luck.

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

daefoe69,
You didn't double post, you're just seeing things,LOL
I'm having a Megan wrapped o2 & header combo installed(I'm also thinking of a turbo cover) which am told will give me an additional 20-22 HP based on their own dyno testing. The o2 housing I'm told will help aid spool up so I'm thinking that the 280's are looking better & better.

dafoe69

iTrader: (4)

If you want the hp and are going to get the o2/header combo then get the 280s HKS or Comp can't go wrong with either. Don't worry about the idle either Al got mind to idle fine. Lumpy but never dies unless i'm slowly entering a parking spot and got the wheel at full lock. Even then it's only happened 5 times in 7 months. Wait until you hear your car with the 280s and especially with the two-step. I promise you'll smile.

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good, but just to recap, it pulls hard too?!

Gruppe-S

iTrader: (206)

I'm not clear as to why a lot of you guys with stock heads / stock engines are going with 280 camshafts. Don't get me wrong, the 280 camshafts are excellent for drag / race big power cars. I have personally witnessed 25+whp gains on a fully built GT35 car going from HKS 272's to HKS 280's. But there is very little advantage for a car with stock motor and anything less than a GT3037/GT3076 turbo to run 280 camshafts. Because your engine / turbo does not need that kind of airflow in essence you are simply shifting your power curve to the right, lose a little down low gain a little down high (over the 272's). Rather there's a lot of disadvantage such as a fairly lumpy idle.

The 272 camshafts are MUCH better suited for anyone south of 400whp with non-ported heads etcs. Honestly the 280's are just a band-aide solution, if you're doing headwork, valvetrain, etc. you really should consider a higher lift camshaft with supporting valvetrain. Stock valvetrain & 280 camshafts is not a great combination. I'd personally just save your money, get the Helix 272's, and increase your cam overlap by a few degrees, retune, you'll have the same effect as 280's (trading midrange for top-end). That said if you really want HKS 280's, we have them in stock.

Cheers,

Gary
Gruppe-S

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

I appriciate your input and presume you have nothing to gain by your advice, that said,
I'm a little confused by your statement, "the Helix 272's, and increase your cam overlap by a few degrees, retune, you'll have the same effect as 280's (trading midrange for top-end)."
If the 280's are not a good match for a stock head and turbo then why would I try and adjust the 272's w/ a cam gear to act the same as the 280's, wouldn't I be back at square one with additional cost? Is it the overlap that will compensate to make the Helix 272's more usefull? I'm all ears for what will work with my supporting mods, regardless of whom I purchase tha parts from.
How do the Helix cams compare w/ HKS, Crower(used their cams in my BBC), or comp, I'm not interested in Jun,Revolver or Tomai's(sp) as they're very expensive and require valvetrain work. I simply want the best bang for the buck w/out sacrificing reliability & quality. Please elaborate.

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

BTW,
Do you guys sell just the lower IC pipe or do you have to buy the whole kit? Does it make that much of a gain to be worth the money?

timzcat

iTrader: (10)

Revolver...period

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

timzcat,
I suppose you're recommending Revolver cams, But do they not require new valve springs & retainers? I'm looking for cams that can be installed w/out going into that.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

I'd agree if your using an aftermarket turbo, and are prepared for the other upgrades involved (Valvesprings for example)

The revolver cams have higher lift, therefore things like Valvesprings and new retainers (that don't make contact with the seals) would be required but their duration for the ones I know of are shorter (269 or so).

Not sure specifically what cams your looking for.. but the revolvers have shorter duration but higher lift.. The net gains are better at low RPM and midrange, if you have a big turbo, additional duration and overlap give you the kind of airflow you'd need at high RPM's..

If you are not interested in valvesprings and just want to do a simple cam swap, HKS 272's or 264's are a much better choice for a stock turbo car with a stock head..

Once you go to a bigger turbo, do head work or stroke the engine, then your options open up a bit more, but so do the costs..

I have HKS 280's now.. If the car is tuned correctly, the idle may not be as pronounced, if you reduce overlap, you can smooth the idle out a little also, but at 1000rpm, the car will not load up and stall (which was my fear with any aftermarket cams)

When I get my spare head back, It will have the port work done, oversized valves, and upgraded springs and retainers, and I would probably go with a high lift but fairly long duration cam.. (Don't forget to check piston to valve clearances once you get to this level)


Comp Cams doesn't list their data the same way HKS does, There are just too many parameters to compare, there are two different measurements made for duration, one is when the valve opens, the other is the duration of the valve being completely open.. The steeper the ramp, the more upgraded valvesprings become necessary even if the lift doesn't hange, since at high rpm a steep ramp means you need higher spring pressure to keep the follower on the lobe..