Should I Roll Front Fenders Too?
Apr 8, 2006, 09:32 AM
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Should I Roll Front Fenders Too?
Figured this would be better at the top.......
I didn't have to roll the fronts. After looking at it again, the lip is so small its not worth the risk. If you really wanted to mess with the fronts they should be shaved, but the lip is so small its probably not necessary in most cases.
The rears were not hard. Yes, i used the heat gun and got the paint nice and hot. To the point that it would hurt if you touched it for more then a couple seconds. After I made the thread I went back outside to finish. I realized there was still a lot of space between the lip and the inside of the fender, so i decided to roll them more. Unfortunately I let a small 2 or 3 inch part of the fender cool off too much and ended up cracking the paint a little. Its only on the inside (about 1.5 inch long chip) and can't be seen unless you look up into the wheel well so I don't really care. A little touch up paint for protection and on to the right side.
Right rear went smoothly with no cracks. The lips are rolled all the way in, almost pressed up against the inside of the fender. The whole process took me about 2 hrs. The tool didn't come with directions, and the ones on the web aren't very descriptive, so I spent a few minutes figuring it out. The tool has a few different "settings" for maximum adjustability. Finding the right one was a pain. But if you look in the pictures you'll see how I did it which should save you some time.
If you decide to do this, a few things to remember:
- Heat the paint, and heat it good!! This is the most important part of the procedure. I heated a 6 inch section at a time for about 1.5 - 2 minutes with the gun about an inch or two off the paint, moving back and forth slowly. Hot to the touch, but use common sense and don't melt your paint.
- The paint cools off kinda quickly after you stop heating it. If you haven't finished the section after a couple minutes, stop and heat it again before proceeding.
- Watch your Brembos. The calipers get in the way of the tool. If you swing it too far to the back, the bottom of the tool with hit the caliper and scratch it. Take them off if you want. I left them on. If you leave them on, just be careful.
- Take your time!! Don't try to roll the lip in all the way on the first pass! Roll it in a little then start over. Too much at one time will probably crack your paint, even if its real hot.
- Don't crank it too hard. If you twist the lever too much, it can bend the fender out.
- Adjust the angle of the roller wheel and length of the arm after each pass to get the correct angle for the next pass. You can see an example of this in the last 2 pictures.
- Don't force the tool. If theres a lot of resistance (while rolling), back it off a little. Rolling the lip in too much, too fast will crack your paint.
- Again, heat is your friend. Get it as hot as you can without burning or melting the paint.
After doing it once, its easy. If I had to do it again, I bet I could do both rear fenders in less than an hour. Including putting the car up on 4 jack stands, assembling the tool, removing the wheels, bolting the tool on, etc. I may not have needed to roll them with the 18x8.5's and 245/40/18's and Eibach's, but i'm glad I did anyway. Theres between 1/2 and 3/4 inch between the rolled in lips and the tires now.
This is how I did it. There could be a better way (probably is lol) but this is what worked for me. Use this information at your own risk. Thats about all I can think of right now. I hope this helps. Here's some pictures.
BTW...I would not have cracked the paint on the left lip if I checked to see if the section was still hot. I didn't realize how quickly it cooled off and just assumed it was still hot enough. It was a stupid mistake. I wouldn't have mentioned it, but i'd rather you guys learn from my mistake then make the same one yourselves. Good luck!
Before rolling
How the tool should be setup (it comes in 2 or 3 pieces)
Heat that ****!
Partially rolled. 4-6 inch section at a time
2nd pass over this section. Almost done.
Done
I didn't have to roll the fronts. After looking at it again, the lip is so small its not worth the risk. If you really wanted to mess with the fronts they should be shaved, but the lip is so small its probably not necessary in most cases.
The rears were not hard. Yes, i used the heat gun and got the paint nice and hot. To the point that it would hurt if you touched it for more then a couple seconds. After I made the thread I went back outside to finish. I realized there was still a lot of space between the lip and the inside of the fender, so i decided to roll them more. Unfortunately I let a small 2 or 3 inch part of the fender cool off too much and ended up cracking the paint a little. Its only on the inside (about 1.5 inch long chip) and can't be seen unless you look up into the wheel well so I don't really care. A little touch up paint for protection and on to the right side.
Right rear went smoothly with no cracks. The lips are rolled all the way in, almost pressed up against the inside of the fender. The whole process took me about 2 hrs. The tool didn't come with directions, and the ones on the web aren't very descriptive, so I spent a few minutes figuring it out. The tool has a few different "settings" for maximum adjustability. Finding the right one was a pain. But if you look in the pictures you'll see how I did it which should save you some time.
If you decide to do this, a few things to remember:
- Heat the paint, and heat it good!! This is the most important part of the procedure. I heated a 6 inch section at a time for about 1.5 - 2 minutes with the gun about an inch or two off the paint, moving back and forth slowly. Hot to the touch, but use common sense and don't melt your paint.
- The paint cools off kinda quickly after you stop heating it. If you haven't finished the section after a couple minutes, stop and heat it again before proceeding.
- Watch your Brembos. The calipers get in the way of the tool. If you swing it too far to the back, the bottom of the tool with hit the caliper and scratch it. Take them off if you want. I left them on. If you leave them on, just be careful.
- Take your time!! Don't try to roll the lip in all the way on the first pass! Roll it in a little then start over. Too much at one time will probably crack your paint, even if its real hot.
- Don't crank it too hard. If you twist the lever too much, it can bend the fender out.
- Adjust the angle of the roller wheel and length of the arm after each pass to get the correct angle for the next pass. You can see an example of this in the last 2 pictures.
- Don't force the tool. If theres a lot of resistance (while rolling), back it off a little. Rolling the lip in too much, too fast will crack your paint.
- Again, heat is your friend. Get it as hot as you can without burning or melting the paint.
After doing it once, its easy. If I had to do it again, I bet I could do both rear fenders in less than an hour. Including putting the car up on 4 jack stands, assembling the tool, removing the wheels, bolting the tool on, etc. I may not have needed to roll them with the 18x8.5's and 245/40/18's and Eibach's, but i'm glad I did anyway. Theres between 1/2 and 3/4 inch between the rolled in lips and the tires now.
This is how I did it. There could be a better way (probably is lol) but this is what worked for me. Use this information at your own risk. Thats about all I can think of right now. I hope this helps. Here's some pictures.
BTW...I would not have cracked the paint on the left lip if I checked to see if the section was still hot. I didn't realize how quickly it cooled off and just assumed it was still hot enough. It was a stupid mistake. I wouldn't have mentioned it, but i'd rather you guys learn from my mistake then make the same one yourselves. Good luck!
Before rolling
How the tool should be setup (it comes in 2 or 3 pieces)
Heat that ****!
Partially rolled. 4-6 inch section at a time
2nd pass over this section. Almost done.
Done
Last edited by twinscrewed; Apr 13, 2006 at 11:27 AM.
Apr 8, 2006, 10:07 AM
#6
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by scorke
I would, it can't hurt unless you eff up the paint, and if you did the rears well I'm sure you can handle the front. Did you rent the tool from rollyourfender.com or what?
Scorke
good luck
Scorke
good luck
Yeah, rented it from rollyourfender.com.
Trending Topics
Apr 8, 2006, 10:10 AM
#8
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gaijin
I'm running 18x9.5 +30 with a 5mm spacer in the front with 275/35s and jic flt-a2s and I don't need to roll my fronts so I hope that helps.
Thanks.
Apr 8, 2006, 06:58 PM
#9
So did you use a heat gun on the rear fenders so you wouldn't crack the paint? I've heard of people using them that is why I'm asking. Is it pretty easy? I"ll be getting my new rims and tires this week and I'll probably have to do the rear. THere is a local guy that owns a tool and said he could do it for me. 
Apr 9, 2006, 01:19 PM
#13
if you guys search there's a thread that has a picture of a fender roller so you can see how they do it. i still recommend shaving as you do not compromise your external paint. and you get more clearence than with a roll, so you do it once and it's done.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
twinscrewed
For Sale - Cars For Sale
8
Jan 12, 2009 11:50 AM
prostcj
For Sale - Miscellaneous Automotive
6
May 8, 2007 11:05 AM
