AznFlip

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On this project, I will make a rear speaker enclosure. But before you start on this kind of project, ask yourself first..... Do I have alot time to do this... Am I okay working messy? Becuse it took me about 2 weeks to build this because I didn't have time. Well it turn out really good though after all those hard work and patience.

Before you start you will need this following materials.

Materials

• Fiberglass Mat & Cloth: under $30 ( 9 sq/ft (1 yard) packages. I used approximately 5 packages, around $5.50 each from Autozone)
• Fiberglass Resin: approx $30 per gallon with hardener (Don't be cheap by getting a quart, because you will end up using more than that)
• Brushes: $5 (Get the cheapest kind you can, as they will probably not be reused. I would recommend using regular bristle brushes. Get some of each if you want to experiment. Let’s say, 10 brushes @ 50 cents each. If you choose to try and save your brushes, put them in acetone immediately after use)
• Masking Tape: under $10 (couple rolls is enough)
• Mixing Sticks (Just like the paint jobs on Monster Garage, these are freebies)
• MDF: about $10 (Medium Density Fiberboard, I used ½” and ¾” thick MDF for this project)
• Wooden Dowels: under $5 (if necessary)
• Wood Glue: $2.00 (Emler's wood glue is good enough, anything that makes something sticks together)
• Fleece or other fabric: about $3 per yard ( purchased a polyester/cotton blend at a local fabric store. I got 3½ yards and make sure your material is stretchy and stay away from pure cotton, as it can shrink and wrinkle

The total for all materials is approximately $70.00

Optional Materials

• Body Filler with hardener, plastic spreader... : about $5-20 (1 qt is enough, and you will ONLY need this if you're going to PAINT)
• Paint Supplies - It depends on the color and 8oz is enough or you can either take it to the body shop to paint it if you don't know how.

Tools

• Router w/various bits and circle jig (I made my own jig)
• Drill w/various bits
• Angle Grinder with 40 grit disc
• Die Grinder or Cutter.
• Scissors/shears (NOT your mom’s favorite pair – they will be ruined!)
• Dremel rotary tool w/various bits
• Tape measure
• Disposable rubber gloves (Trust me! You will need this!)

If you're ready... let's start on this baby

PS: Please DON'T post until I finish this tutorial! Please pm me instead. Thank you

AznFlip

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I just took mine off...




There ya go. I'm all set

Next Step...

AznFlip

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On this pic, I will use the stock enclosure as my mold. The tape is going to protect the car from the fiberglass resin. Using as much tape as you need, completely cover the area that will be molded (as doing this, you may find other than tape, like foils). Use several layers of tape, until you are sure that your vehicle will be adequately protected. (Make sure you tape every spot or you will ruin it)


Now I finished taping and I'm going to use the Vasiline (or use any oily stuff). This way, the molding will come off way easier. I forgot to include this in the material list, but I'm sure we all have this...


Here I mixed the resin and the hardener. The more hardener you mix, the faster it will dry. (But be careful, putting TOO much hardener will cause the resin to heat up and it will be hot enough to catch on fire)


Using the bristle brush, brush the resin all over the place where it needs to be molded.


Now cut the fiberglass mat in pieces to fit the areas.

step 2 to be continue...

AznFlip

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After cutting mat into pieces, place it where it needs to be mold.


This is the same procedure as 4th pic on Step 2.



Ahh, look at me working hard at night


By the way, after you finish pouring the resing, it needs time to get hard. This will take about 2-3 hours or more.

Next Step...

AznFlip

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After waiting for the resin to cure, it's time to take baby off from the mold, see how messy it is...


BE CAREFUL taking it off or it will crack! and be sure it's 100% solid before doing it! Well this how it turn out, but don't be exited yet, because that mold isn't strong enough, so I'll add 1 more layer of fiberglass.


Here is another picture. Just be sure to take all those tapes off.


This is the SAME procedure as Step 2. But this time, I'll do it UNDER.


After applying the other layer, it's time to wait again! (For me, I only applied two layers, which thick enough.)

Next Step...

AznFlip

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This step is optional. You can decide what kind of design you're going to use for the middle seat belt.

However, I decided to make look simple , so I just used the stock one as a mold.

To mold something again, use Step 2 again.





On this one, you don't necessary need to put 2 layers.

Next Step...

AznFlip

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I actually made my rings after I finish molding. They were done in preparation for the rest of the project. You can make them whenever you want, however.

Using the manufacturer’s specs, determine the size of your ring. If you are using a 6 1/2” , for example, you will want a ring about 8 1/2” in diameter. This will give about 1” extra around the speaker. You can go larger if you want, but smaller than 1” might be tough later on.


The first step is to attach the circle jig to the router. I said earlier that I made my own – all I did was replace the standard router base with a 24” long, 4” wide piece of 1/8” thick balsa wood, with the router at one end. To make circles, simply measure from the bit and drill a hole in the balsa. Screw the router assembly to the MDF through this hole, and when you rotate the router around the screw, you get a perfect circle.

It is important to cut the largest part of the ring first – if you cut out the center first, for example, you will have nowhere to screw your circle jig to anymore. Start from the outermost cut, and work inward.


My next step was to rout out the “flange” that the speaker would eventually mount to. Since I was using a 6 1/2” speaker, the outer edge of this groove (also called a rabbet) needed to be at least 6 1/2” in diameter. I used a larger router bit for this, to make a nice wide rabbet, and it was milled approximately ½” deep.

When making measurements for your circles, it is important to remember which “side” of the circle you want to keep. For example: When cutting out the “disk”, you need to measure from the INSIDE of the router bit to determine where to screw through your circle jig. I used a ¼” straight cutting bit for this. Now, had I measured from the OUTSIDE of the bit, the outside of the circle that was cut would have been 12”, but the disk itself would have been ½” less in diameter, and useless. Similarly, when I made the rabbet and the cutout hole, I needed the OUTSIDE measurement to be the accurate one. Use your head, and remember what part of the bit to measure from. Much of this can be avoided by buying a commercially-available circle jig, on which the measurements are already pre-marked and indexed. But you can go the cheapo route like me if you think before you rout.


This is how should look like.


After cutting the "flange", use the wood glue and stick together.

You need to be familiar with woods and tools on this Step. If you can't do it, ask someone to help you. Always double check your measurements before cutting the wood or it would be waste.

Next Step...

AznFlip

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On this step, I'm going to use Angle Grinder with 40 grit disc and Die Grinder or Cutter. On the pictures, I already cut the edges.


Just sand the surface and try to sand until all bumps are gone.


You will notice that the surface is not 99% smooth yet. We'll do that later.
Next Step.

AznFlip

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Okay – now it’s finally time to make this thing look like….well…something!

Note: I totally forgot to take pics when I mounted the rings, but you'll get the idea by looking at the pics. And I will be using my other pics because I also forgot to take pics while I was doing fleecing.


Cut a piece of material (which I’ll call “fleece” from now on) large enough to cover the front of the enclosure with some excess on all sides.


Using Step 2 method again...


Yeah, it's messy. Well it's time to wait again

next step...

AznFlip

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Now we're almost coming to finale...


After waiting for it to cure. Use Angle Grinder w/ 40 grit sand disc again and try to smooth everything out (rough spot). Put another layer of fiberglass if necessary.

The options for finishing your enclosure are almost limitless, however the most popular finish materials are carpet, fabric, vinyl, and paint.

• Vinyl is a bit tougher, as it does not always stretch as easily over curves, and has a tendency to show most imperfections.
• Paint is probably the most labor-intensive finish to apply. Just like painting a car, if the surface is not totally smooth, any tiny imperfection will show through the finish.
• In order to apply paint (and in many cases, vinyl, also), a layer of body filler must be applied over the fiberglass front, followed by hours of laborious sanding and re-layering of body filler to obtain a perfectly smooth surface.

The option I chose on this project was paint finish. But I highly recommend you to use fabric, carpet, or vinyl finishes if you don't know how to paint. Unless you take it to the shop, but it will cost you more because of time and labor.


Next:
Optional Steps....

AznFlip

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This is an optional step and please don't use this step if you're not familiar with auto body stuff. But you can use this step to get an idea.

After mixing the body filler and the hardener, apply all over the surface, but try to make it smooth as possible, that way it will be easier to sand later. The better you apply, the easier you can sand.

Note: After applying the body filler, DON'T wait until it get hard (about medium I should say). It will be easier to sand the surface that way. Probably wait about 15 minutes or more, then start sanding.


By using a soft pad/sanding block with 40 grit sandpaper. Sand the surface very nicely and try to have a nice contour. It's like sculpting an ice.

I say you might end up applying two layers of body filler.
There is other way to make the surface easier. By mixing the body filler and fiberglass. Or you can buy "Kitty's Hair" and just sand with 40 grit or courser.

After all of those stuff. Finish sanding with 80 grit paper and it's ready for primer.

AznFlip

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After sanding with 80 grit, it's good to go for prime.

primer surfacer:
The material for the resilient coating underneath the top paint coat which provides corrosion protection, protects the paint system from chipping caused by gravel, provides a smooth surface for the top paint coat, and serves as an adhesion promoter. A primer that contains a lot of solid material to fill small imperfections in the substrate (primer-surfacer must be sanded before applying paint over them)


After applying the primer. Let it sit at least half an hour or more before sanding.

Before sanding, spray the surface with black paint known as "Guide Coat"(look at the picture). Spray it like from a foot away. Then sand with 250 grit.


After sanding with 250, this how it should look like. As you can see there are little black circles I marked with Sharpie. Those are "pinholes". To make them disappear, sand it with 150 until it's gone. If not, you will have to use icing or putty to cover them and sand with 250 again.

By now, I'm almost done. All I have to do is wet-sand the surface with 400-600 grit. If you are painting single stage, use 400 grit and if you are painting basecoat/clearcoat, use 500 or 600 grit. Remember to do WET-SAND not dry-sand.

AznFlip

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From a scale of 1-10. I would say 7 or 8.5 if you're going for paint finish.

I really enjoyed making this project. It's actually my first TIME to do this kind of project and first time working with fiberglass. I've research and ask my instructor before I started on this project and which I recommend you to do (search). It took me about 3 weeks to build this because it was practically like "stop and go". It's really time consuming especially while waiting for the resing to get cure. Well that's it and please enjoy this tutorials and I wish you can learn stuff from this. If you have any question regarding on this, just simply PM me or contact me on AIM.

Thank you for your time,
John

Here is the final results after mouting the speakers and after installed.


The color is from the Subaru WRX blue.

Please visit my other thread for more PICS

AznFlip

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Please discuss here