iodine23

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so I've seen a thread that says to get the Evo aligned and it has some nasty from-the-factory alignment numbers. Does anyone know what the stock specs are supposed to be? I glanced in the manual and didn't see anything. I'm guessing a tech at my dealership might know, but I was curious if anyone on here has already gotten that information?

Anyone care to chime in with their alignment numbers if they've gotten their cars realigned, too?

thanks!

iodine23

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I did the legwork myself so everyone can benefit. I had the local dealership shop foreman fax me over the suspension specifications. I can't scan them in since I don't have a scanner, but I can give the pertinent information:

Front:
Toe-in mm (in.): 0 +/- 2 ( 0 +/- 0.08)
Camber (Selectable from 2 options): -1deg +/- 30' or -2deg +/- 30' (left/right deviation within 30')
Caster: 3deg55' +/- 30' (left/right devitation within 30')


Rear:
Toe-in mm (in.): 3 +/- 2 (0.12 +/- 0.07)
Camber: -1deg +/- 30' (difference between right and left within 30')


Sounds pretty much like stock VII specs I found online that said -1 camber all around, 0 toe up front and 3 mm toe-in for the rear.

Enjoy!

Trbo Dad

iTrader: (1)

How is the front and/or rear camber adjusted? Do you need a different bolt?

iodine23

iTrader: (1)

I don't know, actually. I figured maybe loosening the tops of the struts up front would do it... don't know about the rear.

But I took my car to a local shop this past weekend and asked for -1 camber, 0 toe all around and they came back at the end and said they couldn't do the camber. So maybe you do need some sort of eccentric bolt or something. Though if it's supposed to be -1 or -2 from the factory you'd think there'd be some way to change it stock.

Trbo Dad

iTrader: (1)

Claudius...Anybody?

I want to set my alignment, but the guy I go to is not sure how to change the camber.
Help.

iodine23

iTrader: (1)

I PMed wtz about it because he said that he had his shop change his camber. His post claimed -1.6 up front was the best they could get and be even on each side. I haven't heard back yet.

My best guess for the front is just loosening up all the nuts on the struts, nudging the strut to the desired angle, and then retightening the nuts. I think that you can get minor adjustments on struts that way. Don't know about the rears. I think better adjustments can be had with eccentric bolts, too. I don't think the car has eccentric bolts stock, though.

Trbo Dad

iTrader: (1)

Thanks iodine23,
Let us know what you find out.

2Cool

I am having mine done today, and the shop has ordered eccentric bolts for the lower strut mounting point, for the upper of the two mounting bolts. The rear already has eccentric bolts, not sure why they didnt install any in the front.

Trbo Dad

iTrader: (1)

2Cool--
Could you get us part numbers for these bolts. Are they "crash bolts". If they are not, then this won't be a stock class allowed modification for autox. Let us know. Thanks.

wtz

Hi All,
There is an eccentric bolt in the front suspension. It is the upper bolt in your lower shock mount. I was only able to obtain -1.6 keeping camber even on both sides. The eccentric bolt has a stop-sign type shape, and is not particularly efficient. Will be trying an H&R bolt soon. Will report back. By the way, you can get all the negative you need in the rear.
Cheers,

Trbo Dad

iTrader: (1)

Thanks wtz--I'll have to check it out.

herson21

Try something call EZ Cam , they are special bolts for camber ajustment my brother buy some the other day they for his car and can be ajust 1.75 degrees negative or positive camber and cost $40, this is the pic

Trbo Dad

iTrader: (1)

Any updates????????
I don't think these bolts will be Stock class leagal for autox.

iodine23

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, an eccentric is already in there huh? Maybe I'll have to rip into my suspension to see. I've been told be a few people around here that the common practice is just to loosen up the mouting bolts and start pulling on the wheel to get the desired camber, then tighten the bolts. Obviously then you're just taking advantage of the play in the bolt hole.

But if there's an eccentric bolt in there then it should make it easy for the shop to do the adjustment.

wtz: Does the rear have an eccentric too? Or is it a totally different beast since it's multilink? My old Subie was McPherson struts all around so I'm not too familiar with other suspension types.

Trbo Dad

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help guys.

My Alignment man was able to get me -1.7 degree camber up front and -0.5 in the back....exactly what I wanted. He also was able to get it very close to 0 toe all around. The car is definately more neutral now and easier to get the back end around. Still slight push at the limit in very tight corners, but much better.