584whp/527wtq Stock ECU!
#1
584whp/527wtq Stock ECU!
Mods are:
Stock ECU tuned by Alfred at Tuning Technologies with ECUFlash: No AEM, No Speed Density, no piggy back.
Stock head
Stock intake manifold
Stock throttle body
Stock ignition
Stock MAF
HKS 272 cams
Vishnu cam gears set at 0 (stock)
AMS 2.3 without balance shafts
AMS 35R kit
AMS 880 injectors
Tuning Technologies affordable 700whp fuel system
Nisei Intercooler and upper IC pipe
Vishnu Signature 3 inch exhaust
C16 fuel @ about 30psi
Going to the track on Saturday AT LAST! Alfred backed it off just a tad on the last pull because I haven't raced the car yet and I want to go out and just get the feel for it. There is enough headroom to push the car to 600whp but one step at a time....
Last edited by Smogrunner; Jul 13, 2006 at 01:20 AM.
#5
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Arn't you afraid of sucking in the honeycombs in the stock MAF sensor? That is the only issue I would have with your entire setup..... looks like you should be running some sweet times! Every time I go fast, you step right back up and get faster yourself....
Keith
PS: Update that sig with your new dyno numbers!
Keith
PS: Update that sig with your new dyno numbers!
#6
Originally Posted by Fourdoor
Arn't you afraid of sucking in the honeycombs in the stock MAF sensor? That is the only issue I would have with your entire setup..... looks like you should be running some sweet times! Every time I go fast, you step right back up and get faster yourself....
Keith
PS: Update that sig with your new dyno numbers!
Keith
PS: Update that sig with your new dyno numbers!
1. We moved the BOV dump much further from the MAF.
2. We scuffed the inside surface of the MAF housing and epoxy glued (the nasty stuff) the MAF screen to the wall of the MAF.
3. We super glued the little black MAF plastic piece to the front of the MAF.
4. We checked its condition repeatedly during the dynoing and after the test drives and it is still in perfect condition. We'll see how it holds up over time, but it is definitely secure enough that it isn't going to get sucked into my compressor...
#7
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Originally Posted by Smogrunner
We have taken several steps to keep that from happening again:
1. We moved the BOV dump much further from the MAF.
2. We scuffed the inside surface of the MAF housing and epoxy glued (the nasty stuff) the MAF screen to the wall of the MAF.
3. We super glued the little black MAF plastic piece to the front of the MAF.
4. We checked its condition repeatedly during the dynoing and after the test drives and it is still in perfect condition. We'll see how it holds up over time, but it is definitely secure enough that it isn't going to get sucked into my compressor...
1. We moved the BOV dump much further from the MAF.
2. We scuffed the inside surface of the MAF housing and epoxy glued (the nasty stuff) the MAF screen to the wall of the MAF.
3. We super glued the little black MAF plastic piece to the front of the MAF.
4. We checked its condition repeatedly during the dynoing and after the test drives and it is still in perfect condition. We'll see how it holds up over time, but it is definitely secure enough that it isn't going to get sucked into my compressor...
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#14
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smogrunner,
with the stock ecu and the stroker did you have any trouble with the factory knock sensor?? I have a 2.4 stroker w/ cosworth head and cant keep the timing from getting pulled out of the bottom end. I know with the cosworh head that i am flowing alot more air so we were thinking that the stock maf was insufficient. what hertz are you reading from 0-3k??
with the stock ecu and the stroker did you have any trouble with the factory knock sensor?? I have a 2.4 stroker w/ cosworth head and cant keep the timing from getting pulled out of the bottom end. I know with the cosworh head that i am flowing alot more air so we were thinking that the stock maf was insufficient. what hertz are you reading from 0-3k??
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Downright amazing.....race gas, correct I didn t see any mention of that.
Just the same there may be some more power in swapping to JUN 272's or Tomei ProCam 280s and adding a nice progressive alky kit, but in all seriousness....that is quite a feat that you have achieved just in itself.
Congrats!
Just the same there may be some more power in swapping to JUN 272's or Tomei ProCam 280s and adding a nice progressive alky kit, but in all seriousness....that is quite a feat that you have achieved just in itself.
Congrats!
#31
There are a couple of main points behind this thread. I have taken criticism for a while for not "upgrading" to this EMS, or that ignition system, or that fuel system, etc. My agenda has always been to only upgrade when it is clear that what I am running keeps me from reaching my goals. Even then, I only upgrade to the most affordable system that allows me to get there. Non retarded goals are important though: If you are looking for power beyond the 600whp mark, you better be doing so for a clear reason. My goals have always been to make high 500s. Now I'm there. Yippeee!
For example, when my fuel system was "done" at 539whp, I just added a FPR $150, fuel rail $150, an external Walbro for $116, and about $75 in fuel lines. Total: $490. Still a lot of money, but compare that to a complete fuel system upgrade.
For example, when my fuel system was "done" at 539whp, I just added a FPR $150, fuel rail $150, an external Walbro for $116, and about $75 in fuel lines. Total: $490. Still a lot of money, but compare that to a complete fuel system upgrade.
#36
BTW, the Xede is a fantastic unit and I still may end up using it for a variety of reasons S.M.A.R.T. with integrated O2 wibeband, lean run protection, Alky control, and it would work as well or better than the MAF Translator to control a big GM Maf if I end up needing to go with one. I think some of these failsafes would be very desirable for road racing - especially when/if Chronohunter uses my car for an upcoming time attack or Street Car Challenge type event.
But at this exact moment in time, the Xede is not needed, so I will not use it until I do some of the things mentioned above.
But at this exact moment in time, the Xede is not needed, so I will not use it until I do some of the things mentioned above.
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Originally Posted by Smogrunner
BTW, the Xede is a fantastic unit and I still may end up using it for a variety of reasons S.M.A.R.T. with integrated O2 wibeband, lean run protection, Alky control, and it would work as well or better than the MAF Translator to control a big GM Maf if I end up needing to go with one. I think some of these failsafes would be very desirable for road racing - especially when/if Chronohunter uses my car for an upcoming time attack or Street Car Challenge type event.
But at this exact moment in time, the Xede is not needed, so I will not use it until I do some of the things mentioned above.
But at this exact moment in time, the Xede is not needed, so I will not use it until I do some of the things mentioned above.