Mark this thread as Unsold
FS: (NY) 2006 Evo IX MR SE Apex Silver. Modded.
Oct 27, 2011, 08:31 AM
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FS: (NY) 2006 Evo IX MR SE Apex Silver. Modded.
Car Is SOLD!
I have come to the conclusion that I want to and should sell my car. There are more pictures below in linked text. As well as a full modification list. Most of my projects write-ups can be found on this forum.
Quick Mods:
4G64 2.4L w/ FP Black Ball Bearing
10.5:1 Compression. Aluminum rods. Built 6 speed w/ Final drive upgrade.
Tuned on pump 27psi. Dyno jet 560whp/500+lbs tq
Going to get dyno sheet and post in mods link section this week.
Rundown:
VIN: JA3AH86C66U063973
Miles on body: 55k
Miles on motor build: 12-13k
Miles on turbo: 12-13k (already passed most of the journal bearing life FP turbos)
Miles on Transmission: 12-13k
Miles on wheels/tires: 1k
Miles on Ferodo 2500 pads: 25k (yes I know... crazy, and they still have a lot left)
Miles on EBC pads: (not even installed yet... sitting in trunk)
Miles on Rotors: 25k (installed with Ferodos and in fantastic shape. I'm not a brake abuser)
Price: $26,000 VERY FIRM.
Modifications link here
More pictures here
I will more than likely get back into the evo game later in life... but I cannot continue with this at this rate and at this time.
I am the original owner. I purchased this car in NJ for around $40k.
Since then, I cannot imagine how much I've spent on it. I stopped counting after $60k.
No trades
No low *****
No parting out
I will NOT budge on price
I don't care what other car you can show me that is a lower price, fact is, it's not mine, and probably was in an accident, or had 3-4 owners. I am this car's daddy.
Don't bother giving me the "well it's not stock, you'll never get what you ask" speech. Fine, then I'll never sell it. Go find another evo for 22... and see if it'll take you only 4k to bring it to this point regardless the upgrades you choose. Because let's get something straight, you aren't buying an evo to keep it stock. There are a few that do, but they don't come on these forums looking for them.
I'll be glad to rip off the wheels, tires, spacers, coil overs, rotors, brake lines, pads, brake master cylinder brace, strut bars, sway bars, chassis stiffeners and put factory stuff back on and sell it to you for 22... But the reason I don't want to do that (even though I'll make more money that way) is to do you a favor in a package deal, and to do me a favor in saving time.
The car has been driven in every winter, every summer, in snow, sun, rain, it has been driven more than spiritedly in those occasions. This car is not a baby, therefore I did not baby it. I drove it like an evo was meant to be driven with the modifications that have been done to it.
If you want to buy a car from someone that will lie to you about a babied evo... be my guest. If you want to buy an evo from an honest man that you can keep in touch with for the remainder of your life or the cars life (whichever comes first... probably your life... LOL) then buy this vehicle. I know it in and out and would be glad to be the first person you contact in the event that you have ANY issue/question.
I invite joy rides... (Me being the driver). I'm located in Staten Island NY and am willing to drive up to around 100-150 miles to have you see it. Yes, I'm a nice guy
Known issues:
• Some portions of the rear deck rattle. Partially due to the loud titanium exhaust and removed sound deadening.
• The underbody is kind of dirty/oily because of an old leak by the oil cap that took me forever to find.
• There is some miscelaneous wiring I would have liked to clean up in the trunk and under the dash but I haven't had time.
• Hood was painted years ago. X-Girlfriend's sister threw a brick at it, luckily it didn't hit anything else. Years have passed and sometimes I forget it was even re-sprayed. I made her pay for it, and you can bet I took it to the best shop I could find. The paint/clear-coat match perfectly still.
• The front right fender was recently replaced and painted. The guy that rolled my front fenders for my new set of wheels/tires ended up caving one of the fenders in. So instead of getting body work on that fender, I just bought a mint used one and painted it in and out. VIN sticker is missing from that fender obviously. The paint came out mint as you can see from the pictures.
• The car is on it's 2nd front lip for obvious reasons. The current one is in the process of getting resprayed. Bumper is original paint.
• There is occasional minor lifter tick only at idle. It's possible that the lifters just need bleeding, because I only notice this on cold starts and only after I put in the GSC S3 cams (bigger than the previous). People I talk to say it's really nothing to worry about, but I'm ****, and if I were keeping this car... I'd either bleed them or get a whole new set for piece of mind.
• There is a teenie weenie cave-in section on the rear right quarter-panel from rolling the fenders. Barely noticeable.
• There are very minor scuffs here and there on the car. You'd really have to be within inches to see them. When this thing is clay-barred and waxed... it looks like a factory floor evo.
• Front driver mat nearly has a hole in it... what do you expect, it's the original mat, and I do a lot of heel-toe/left foot braking/heel rotating-resting... the rest seem in great shape.
• There are 2 eraser-tip sized chips on the windshield. They have been there for over 2 years each. Never gotten worse, so I never bothered to touch them.
• The valve cover breather nipple (that you put the hose on) on the transmission side came out ages ago, I currently have a rigged/stuffed nipple shoved in there with the oil-catch-can hose attached to it. I've been meaning to tap the head with proper AN-Fittings for centuries, but have just been too busy since the cover needs to get hot-tanked after that modification.
• The car has no front fender linings. (for obvious reasons)
• I believe the clutch wasn't aligned right when installed last time around... when I come off the clutch, the car vibrates a bit until it engages fully. This is a sign of that. I was planning on lining it up right when fixing the 5/6 slider issue below... but I just don't have the time for that now.
• I also have an issue with 6th gear (it happened before) that will cost around 500-700 to fix. The 5/6 slider was crowned because of a hard 5th gear shift. 6th is hard to get into, and hard to get out of. Works great. Gears and Synchros are fine. Just the slider needs replacing. Everything else is in working order.
As you can see I'm a brutally honest man. I have no problems pointing out all the good/bad and ugly. The last thing I need in my life is bad karma. Especially when I'm trying to minimal-ize my life. I don't want to sell a car to someone that will end up finding something out down the line that they weren't aware of from the beginning. That's happened to me, and I know what it feels like, therefore I'd never do it to anyone else. I'm sure there are other evo's out there that claim they are cleaner, and work better... but you never know, their "known issues" list may be hidden :P
As it stands, car is in my possession and is being driven daily while in the process of getting the tune finished.
PM me for my #. Makes communication a lot easier and faster.
Thank you all for your time.
*******Some updates
The car was just dropped off (Nov 6th 2011) with my tuner. Just got a brand new AEM EMS Series 2 to get it tuned on. I can include the stock ECU with the vehicle too (although the tune on it really isn't the greatest. It's fine for wide open throttle, but it just doesn't take a liking to the motor setup or something) So my tuner is going to take his SWEET time tuning the living life out of it for drive-ability and partial throttle applications to make it feel as factory and smooth as possible. This is not going to increase cost... I just want to make sure the buyer is happy.
I picked up the car to check it out for a week (Dec 6th 2011) and find that it still has a weird throttle delay issue. Just replaced the battery with a brand new Optima Yellow top... yep, added another 20lbs to the car
Cranks a lot faster, but still doesn't fix the throttle hesitation issue. Going to go to the tuner this weekend to hopefully sort out.
Some people have asked questions via PM, and I have given them answers via PM... So I figured I post some of them here for more information
Q) So how much life is left on your journal bearing turbo? I'm curious to plan ahead for future purchases. I see they go for about 2k new.
A) I think you may have misunderstood the thing about the turbo. Sure a new one cost 2k, but the new 2k one you're talking about isn't ball bearing. A new FP Black from FP setup like this one would cost over 2600, and that's FP, not Owens development. Owens has been building turbos for the FIA and Rally races for years. Not downplaying FP, but if I had the choice, I'd take a ball-bearing converted turbo from Owen over FP anyday.... look them up. The normal FP Blacks are Journal bearing ($2k) which usually die within 5-10k miles from what I have noticed, some users see different life out of them... but it depends how you drive the car. I beat on this thing religiously and it has ~15k on the turbo.
I converted my FP Black into a Ball-Bearing(worlds first) turbo for that reason alone... longevity... and it's already proven to outlast the typical journal bearing turbo lifespan... it's coming on 15k miles with ZERO issues. You'll probably have this turbo for life as they are designed to run 40+ psi and it is only set to 27-28 on pump gas.
Q) Do you still have the factory wheels/tires? Will you include them in the sale?
A) Factory wheels/tires are gone. Sold them right when I got these to make up for some of the money. If I did still have them, I'd include them at an additional cost. My 26k is very firm for the car as it is.
Q) I realize that a built evo probably isn't the best car to purchase for gas mileage, but out of curiosity... what do you get with yours? What can I expect?
A) Gas mileage is horrid when you are on boost. If you drive off of boost (and you gotta be good at this) you can get ~28-32 mpg. Mind you that this also completely depends on the tune. I can tune it so that your AFR can be around 15-15.5 at cruising (which sips fuel) but as soon as the turbo comes in, you NEED to add fuel, and that's when this thing is no good on gas. It's kind of a love/hate, best of both worlds thing.
Q) You mention that you've driven this car all-year-round in NY... snow and all... which leads me to ask: Do you have any rust issues? Has the bottom of the car been coated?
A) It was an NJ purchased car... which means it's underbody has had the coating on it. There are many spots under the car that have small bends/indents from where the car has been lifted so many times with all of these modifications. The only rust this thing has is around some old nuts and bolts. (typical with any car really)
Q) I see you daily drive the car... what is your opinion of your car as a daily driver? Could I daily drive the car?
A) I'm an honest man, and here is my honest to-the-point answer: This car would make a horrific daily driver with this exhaust (in my perception). As well as the noisy triple disc clutch and loud drive train once up to speed. This thing sounds like a semi rally-bred race car. If you like exhaust noise... then maybe the exhaust wont bother you. But I warn you... this is a Titanium exhaust. Sound dampening was on the bottom of Greddy's priority list when designing it. Weight however, was their first. Darn thing weighs just over 10lbs from the cat back to the tip of the muffler, I BS you not. The clutch noise is common with all Exedy Triple disc clutches. This is the revised edition with the center piece that pulls the plates away to ensure nothing is grabbing between shifts... but it will still chatter and make noise when the clutch pedal is pressed down (quite annoying at red lights, people think your car is broken if their windows are down). Also the deceleration noise on this clutch is pretty bad. Worse in 4th gear because of the new gear profile in the transmission (which also adds to the noise). And as for the drivetrain noise... well the tranny is built, and the rear end is solid bolted to the rear of the car via aluminum mounts. Along with a moustache bar eliminator kit which means your bum bum will feel a nice kick between shifts if you aren't a smooth-hard-shifter. There is light rattling of things in the back and front that were never there before I took the baffle out of the exhaust tip. The exhaust seems to be slowly shaking the interior apart. (maybe I'm just ****, because my friends say it isn't so bad... but if you step out of an Audi, and hop in this car, you will think it was assembled in someone's basement). The suspension is an absolute joy. In its current configuration of 10k / 12k springs, this thing feels AMAZING over bumps.. .you gotta be in it to believe it... these Ohlins are no joke.
I personally have no issues with the car being driven daily OTHER than the exhaust noise. The rest kinda... turns me on LOL. But I don't like getting attention from the cops, and it's the exhaust they will be hearing. Everything else just sounds like the car is falling apart to someone that doesn't know, when it really isnt. (and if anything, when the cops hear those kind of noises, they pity you and don't bother you LOL). I used to have a QTP Cutout Downpipe so it allowed me to put a baffle in the exhaust to quiet it down, and when I wanted to run straight pipe, I'd open the Cutout via electrical switch. But it got annoying and the motor in the cutout isn't reliable throughout the seasons.
Q) How bad is the transmission 6th gear problem? Is there a possibility you can fix this before sale? Could you lower the price by the amount needed to fix the 5/6 slider issue in the transmission?
A) As for the tranny (6th gear issue)... this also doesn't bother me. it's just hard to get in 6th, and out of 6th. Which is rarely used, and when used, I'm usually in it for a long time (highway travels). I refuse to deal with it. Which is why the price is so low on my car. My tuner/engine builder says I'm an idiot for not asking 30. I may even end up keeping the car... people keep low balling me when it says plain simple and clear that the price is 26k very firm. The minor issues with the car have already been taken into account and the price has been lowered even more on top of that.
Q) Could you take the AEM out... put the stock ECU back in, and sell it to me for $1,500 less?
A) No. 26k gets you the car with AEM, AND the stock ecu in a box with a semi-driveable tune. The AEM will be fine tuned.
********
I may have mentioned this before... but I would like to sell the vehicle as a vehicle. Not a ripped apart, semi-slapped together vehicle.
If someone wants to save money and have me swap out parts here and there to bring the price down... I will just end up keeping the car.
Sure, I can take my wheels/tires off... sell them for a nice chunk, and buy stock wheels/tires and put them on.
Sure, I can take out the Ohlins, sell them for a nice chunk and get some stock bilstiens in.
Sure, I can take out my rotors, brake lines/ducts/pads/master cylinder brace... sell it as an awesome package, and put some stock ones in.
Sure, I can take out all of the chassis stiffeners, swap out the front and rear roll bars, strut bars, engine damper, sell it all and put OEM stuff back in.
Sure, I can take out my 2 amps, head-unit, sub-woofer, rca cables, speaker wire, power/ground wires, distributors, sell them and put the stock headunit in.
But am I going to be compensated for my time?
Here's my question... why doesn't that someone that asks me to do the above... do it them self and make themselves money?? Hell if I had the time, I would!!!! I don't have time for this at this time in my life. This project was supposed to be done a long time ago, and many dollars ago. This vehicle as it stands is a blast to enjoy as is, and from what I've seen in this evo community.. I don't see who wouldn't love to own a car like this. Either you have the money or you don't. I understand the whole haggling thing... I understand that someone wants to feel as if I budged for them in price... so maybe it's my error for not asking for 30 and settling for 26 to make someone feel good, but do your research and ask yourself if my price isn't fair.
Again, I'm open to all questions/suggestions. I hope the above answers/clarifies as much as possible!
I have come to the conclusion that I want to and should sell my car. There are more pictures below in linked text. As well as a full modification list. Most of my projects write-ups can be found on this forum.
Quick Mods:
4G64 2.4L w/ FP Black Ball Bearing
10.5:1 Compression. Aluminum rods. Built 6 speed w/ Final drive upgrade.
Tuned on pump 27psi. Dyno jet 560whp/500+lbs tq
Going to get dyno sheet and post in mods link section this week.
Rundown:
VIN: JA3AH86C66U063973
Miles on body: 55k
Miles on motor build: 12-13k
Miles on turbo: 12-13k (already passed most of the journal bearing life FP turbos)
Miles on Transmission: 12-13k
Miles on wheels/tires: 1k
Miles on Ferodo 2500 pads: 25k (yes I know... crazy, and they still have a lot left)
Miles on EBC pads: (not even installed yet... sitting in trunk)
Miles on Rotors: 25k (installed with Ferodos and in fantastic shape. I'm not a brake abuser)
Price: $26,000 VERY FIRM.
Modifications link here
More pictures here
I will more than likely get back into the evo game later in life... but I cannot continue with this at this rate and at this time.
I am the original owner. I purchased this car in NJ for around $40k.
Since then, I cannot imagine how much I've spent on it. I stopped counting after $60k.
No trades
No low *****
No parting out
I will NOT budge on price
I don't care what other car you can show me that is a lower price, fact is, it's not mine, and probably was in an accident, or had 3-4 owners. I am this car's daddy.
Don't bother giving me the "well it's not stock, you'll never get what you ask" speech. Fine, then I'll never sell it. Go find another evo for 22... and see if it'll take you only 4k to bring it to this point regardless the upgrades you choose. Because let's get something straight, you aren't buying an evo to keep it stock. There are a few that do, but they don't come on these forums looking for them.
I'll be glad to rip off the wheels, tires, spacers, coil overs, rotors, brake lines, pads, brake master cylinder brace, strut bars, sway bars, chassis stiffeners and put factory stuff back on and sell it to you for 22... But the reason I don't want to do that (even though I'll make more money that way) is to do you a favor in a package deal, and to do me a favor in saving time.
The car has been driven in every winter, every summer, in snow, sun, rain, it has been driven more than spiritedly in those occasions. This car is not a baby, therefore I did not baby it. I drove it like an evo was meant to be driven with the modifications that have been done to it.
If you want to buy a car from someone that will lie to you about a babied evo... be my guest. If you want to buy an evo from an honest man that you can keep in touch with for the remainder of your life or the cars life (whichever comes first... probably your life... LOL) then buy this vehicle. I know it in and out and would be glad to be the first person you contact in the event that you have ANY issue/question.
I invite joy rides... (Me being the driver). I'm located in Staten Island NY and am willing to drive up to around 100-150 miles to have you see it. Yes, I'm a nice guy
Known issues:
• Some portions of the rear deck rattle. Partially due to the loud titanium exhaust and removed sound deadening.
• The underbody is kind of dirty/oily because of an old leak by the oil cap that took me forever to find.
• There is some miscelaneous wiring I would have liked to clean up in the trunk and under the dash but I haven't had time.
• Hood was painted years ago. X-Girlfriend's sister threw a brick at it, luckily it didn't hit anything else. Years have passed and sometimes I forget it was even re-sprayed. I made her pay for it, and you can bet I took it to the best shop I could find. The paint/clear-coat match perfectly still.
• The front right fender was recently replaced and painted. The guy that rolled my front fenders for my new set of wheels/tires ended up caving one of the fenders in. So instead of getting body work on that fender, I just bought a mint used one and painted it in and out. VIN sticker is missing from that fender obviously. The paint came out mint as you can see from the pictures.
• The car is on it's 2nd front lip for obvious reasons. The current one is in the process of getting resprayed. Bumper is original paint.
• There is occasional minor lifter tick only at idle. It's possible that the lifters just need bleeding, because I only notice this on cold starts and only after I put in the GSC S3 cams (bigger than the previous). People I talk to say it's really nothing to worry about, but I'm ****, and if I were keeping this car... I'd either bleed them or get a whole new set for piece of mind.
• There is a teenie weenie cave-in section on the rear right quarter-panel from rolling the fenders. Barely noticeable.
• There are very minor scuffs here and there on the car. You'd really have to be within inches to see them. When this thing is clay-barred and waxed... it looks like a factory floor evo.
• Front driver mat nearly has a hole in it... what do you expect, it's the original mat, and I do a lot of heel-toe/left foot braking/heel rotating-resting... the rest seem in great shape.
• There are 2 eraser-tip sized chips on the windshield. They have been there for over 2 years each. Never gotten worse, so I never bothered to touch them.
• The valve cover breather nipple (that you put the hose on) on the transmission side came out ages ago, I currently have a rigged/stuffed nipple shoved in there with the oil-catch-can hose attached to it. I've been meaning to tap the head with proper AN-Fittings for centuries, but have just been too busy since the cover needs to get hot-tanked after that modification.
• The car has no front fender linings. (for obvious reasons)
• I believe the clutch wasn't aligned right when installed last time around... when I come off the clutch, the car vibrates a bit until it engages fully. This is a sign of that. I was planning on lining it up right when fixing the 5/6 slider issue below... but I just don't have the time for that now.
• I also have an issue with 6th gear (it happened before) that will cost around 500-700 to fix. The 5/6 slider was crowned because of a hard 5th gear shift. 6th is hard to get into, and hard to get out of. Works great. Gears and Synchros are fine. Just the slider needs replacing. Everything else is in working order.
As you can see I'm a brutally honest man. I have no problems pointing out all the good/bad and ugly. The last thing I need in my life is bad karma. Especially when I'm trying to minimal-ize my life. I don't want to sell a car to someone that will end up finding something out down the line that they weren't aware of from the beginning. That's happened to me, and I know what it feels like, therefore I'd never do it to anyone else. I'm sure there are other evo's out there that claim they are cleaner, and work better... but you never know, their "known issues" list may be hidden :P
As it stands, car is in my possession and is being driven daily while in the process of getting the tune finished.
PM me for my #. Makes communication a lot easier and faster.
Thank you all for your time.
*******Some updates
The car was just dropped off (Nov 6th 2011) with my tuner. Just got a brand new AEM EMS Series 2 to get it tuned on. I can include the stock ECU with the vehicle too (although the tune on it really isn't the greatest. It's fine for wide open throttle, but it just doesn't take a liking to the motor setup or something) So my tuner is going to take his SWEET time tuning the living life out of it for drive-ability and partial throttle applications to make it feel as factory and smooth as possible. This is not going to increase cost... I just want to make sure the buyer is happy.
I picked up the car to check it out for a week (Dec 6th 2011) and find that it still has a weird throttle delay issue. Just replaced the battery with a brand new Optima Yellow top... yep, added another 20lbs to the car
Cranks a lot faster, but still doesn't fix the throttle hesitation issue. Going to go to the tuner this weekend to hopefully sort out.Some people have asked questions via PM, and I have given them answers via PM... So I figured I post some of them here for more information
Q) So how much life is left on your journal bearing turbo? I'm curious to plan ahead for future purchases. I see they go for about 2k new.
A) I think you may have misunderstood the thing about the turbo. Sure a new one cost 2k, but the new 2k one you're talking about isn't ball bearing. A new FP Black from FP setup like this one would cost over 2600, and that's FP, not Owens development. Owens has been building turbos for the FIA and Rally races for years. Not downplaying FP, but if I had the choice, I'd take a ball-bearing converted turbo from Owen over FP anyday.... look them up. The normal FP Blacks are Journal bearing ($2k) which usually die within 5-10k miles from what I have noticed, some users see different life out of them... but it depends how you drive the car. I beat on this thing religiously and it has ~15k on the turbo.
I converted my FP Black into a Ball-Bearing(worlds first) turbo for that reason alone... longevity... and it's already proven to outlast the typical journal bearing turbo lifespan... it's coming on 15k miles with ZERO issues. You'll probably have this turbo for life as they are designed to run 40+ psi and it is only set to 27-28 on pump gas.
Q) Do you still have the factory wheels/tires? Will you include them in the sale?
A) Factory wheels/tires are gone. Sold them right when I got these to make up for some of the money. If I did still have them, I'd include them at an additional cost. My 26k is very firm for the car as it is.
Q) I realize that a built evo probably isn't the best car to purchase for gas mileage, but out of curiosity... what do you get with yours? What can I expect?
A) Gas mileage is horrid when you are on boost. If you drive off of boost (and you gotta be good at this) you can get ~28-32 mpg. Mind you that this also completely depends on the tune. I can tune it so that your AFR can be around 15-15.5 at cruising (which sips fuel) but as soon as the turbo comes in, you NEED to add fuel, and that's when this thing is no good on gas. It's kind of a love/hate, best of both worlds thing.
Q) You mention that you've driven this car all-year-round in NY... snow and all... which leads me to ask: Do you have any rust issues? Has the bottom of the car been coated?
A) It was an NJ purchased car... which means it's underbody has had the coating on it. There are many spots under the car that have small bends/indents from where the car has been lifted so many times with all of these modifications. The only rust this thing has is around some old nuts and bolts. (typical with any car really)
Q) I see you daily drive the car... what is your opinion of your car as a daily driver? Could I daily drive the car?
A) I'm an honest man, and here is my honest to-the-point answer: This car would make a horrific daily driver with this exhaust (in my perception). As well as the noisy triple disc clutch and loud drive train once up to speed. This thing sounds like a semi rally-bred race car. If you like exhaust noise... then maybe the exhaust wont bother you. But I warn you... this is a Titanium exhaust. Sound dampening was on the bottom of Greddy's priority list when designing it. Weight however, was their first. Darn thing weighs just over 10lbs from the cat back to the tip of the muffler, I BS you not. The clutch noise is common with all Exedy Triple disc clutches. This is the revised edition with the center piece that pulls the plates away to ensure nothing is grabbing between shifts... but it will still chatter and make noise when the clutch pedal is pressed down (quite annoying at red lights, people think your car is broken if their windows are down). Also the deceleration noise on this clutch is pretty bad. Worse in 4th gear because of the new gear profile in the transmission (which also adds to the noise). And as for the drivetrain noise... well the tranny is built, and the rear end is solid bolted to the rear of the car via aluminum mounts. Along with a moustache bar eliminator kit which means your bum bum will feel a nice kick between shifts if you aren't a smooth-hard-shifter. There is light rattling of things in the back and front that were never there before I took the baffle out of the exhaust tip. The exhaust seems to be slowly shaking the interior apart. (maybe I'm just ****, because my friends say it isn't so bad... but if you step out of an Audi, and hop in this car, you will think it was assembled in someone's basement). The suspension is an absolute joy. In its current configuration of 10k / 12k springs, this thing feels AMAZING over bumps.. .you gotta be in it to believe it... these Ohlins are no joke.
I personally have no issues with the car being driven daily OTHER than the exhaust noise. The rest kinda... turns me on LOL. But I don't like getting attention from the cops, and it's the exhaust they will be hearing. Everything else just sounds like the car is falling apart to someone that doesn't know, when it really isnt. (and if anything, when the cops hear those kind of noises, they pity you and don't bother you LOL). I used to have a QTP Cutout Downpipe so it allowed me to put a baffle in the exhaust to quiet it down, and when I wanted to run straight pipe, I'd open the Cutout via electrical switch. But it got annoying and the motor in the cutout isn't reliable throughout the seasons.
Q) How bad is the transmission 6th gear problem? Is there a possibility you can fix this before sale? Could you lower the price by the amount needed to fix the 5/6 slider issue in the transmission?
A) As for the tranny (6th gear issue)... this also doesn't bother me. it's just hard to get in 6th, and out of 6th. Which is rarely used, and when used, I'm usually in it for a long time (highway travels). I refuse to deal with it. Which is why the price is so low on my car. My tuner/engine builder says I'm an idiot for not asking 30. I may even end up keeping the car... people keep low balling me when it says plain simple and clear that the price is 26k very firm. The minor issues with the car have already been taken into account and the price has been lowered even more on top of that.
Q) Could you take the AEM out... put the stock ECU back in, and sell it to me for $1,500 less?
A) No. 26k gets you the car with AEM, AND the stock ecu in a box with a semi-driveable tune. The AEM will be fine tuned.
********
I may have mentioned this before... but I would like to sell the vehicle as a vehicle. Not a ripped apart, semi-slapped together vehicle.
If someone wants to save money and have me swap out parts here and there to bring the price down... I will just end up keeping the car.
Sure, I can take my wheels/tires off... sell them for a nice chunk, and buy stock wheels/tires and put them on.
Sure, I can take out the Ohlins, sell them for a nice chunk and get some stock bilstiens in.
Sure, I can take out my rotors, brake lines/ducts/pads/master cylinder brace... sell it as an awesome package, and put some stock ones in.
Sure, I can take out all of the chassis stiffeners, swap out the front and rear roll bars, strut bars, engine damper, sell it all and put OEM stuff back in.
Sure, I can take out my 2 amps, head-unit, sub-woofer, rca cables, speaker wire, power/ground wires, distributors, sell them and put the stock headunit in.
But am I going to be compensated for my time?
Here's my question... why doesn't that someone that asks me to do the above... do it them self and make themselves money?? Hell if I had the time, I would!!!! I don't have time for this at this time in my life. This project was supposed to be done a long time ago, and many dollars ago. This vehicle as it stands is a blast to enjoy as is, and from what I've seen in this evo community.. I don't see who wouldn't love to own a car like this. Either you have the money or you don't. I understand the whole haggling thing... I understand that someone wants to feel as if I budged for them in price... so maybe it's my error for not asking for 30 and settling for 26 to make someone feel good, but do your research and ask yourself if my price isn't fair.
Again, I'm open to all questions/suggestions. I hope the above answers/clarifies as much as possible!
Last edited by MagicManRed; Jan 10, 2012 at 07:03 AM. Reason: Updates
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Oct 31, 2011, 08:05 AM
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Seems like a nice guy. But that distance is killing me. I'd really love for him to drive the car first and check it out in person.
-Halloween bump
-Halloween bump
Oct 31, 2011, 02:30 PM
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17x9 enkei rpf1. I believe +25's all around with 20mm spacers up front. 265/40/17 rubber (I should have went 255, the Dunlop Direzza Star Spec z1's run wide) front and rear fenders rolled. Fronts pulled. Front right fender actually isn't original because the fender pull made it collapse during a pull (it's a risk you take when fitting wheels/tires this wide). I had to replace it and the guy who did it rolled/pulled again flawlessly. It definitely makes a little scraping noise under extreme G. But the camber isn't aggressive up front. If tracked, I'd assume the front would be adjusted more negative to tuck more under. I just don't want to ruin the tires unless I'm tracking it. Otherwise I try to keep the camber pretty flat.
These ohlins are really out of this world over bumps. Probably the most daily-able coilovers I've ever felt. They really were worth every penny, and getting the car properly corner weighted adds volumes to the feel when tossing it in and out of turns. It drives like a go-kart... just point, and shoot.
Bump again...
Awaiting my Series 2 box, once installed, I will get it tuned modestly and post numbers for those interested. Then car is ready to go. Joy rides welcome. I have nothing to hide. Car is rock solid. Noisy, but rock solid and very responsive to all of your inputs, whether it be gas/brake or steering
These ohlins are really out of this world over bumps. Probably the most daily-able coilovers I've ever felt. They really were worth every penny, and getting the car properly corner weighted adds volumes to the feel when tossing it in and out of turns. It drives like a go-kart... just point, and shoot.
Bump again...
Awaiting my Series 2 box, once installed, I will get it tuned modestly and post numbers for those interested. Then car is ready to go. Joy rides welcome. I have nothing to hide. Car is rock solid. Noisy, but rock solid and very responsive to all of your inputs, whether it be gas/brake or steering
Nov 3, 2011, 07:57 AM
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^ to answer your question... (I'm no transmission guru, so bare with me and my terminologies)
The build does not build sliders. Even the 5 speed builds don't. But since the 5 speed works differently with 5/R instead of 5/6... the 6 speed is more vulnerable to crowning the edge of the 5/6 slider. So slamming into 5th, (like I did this time around with brass shifter bushings like a moron... they have no give) or missing 3rd... will screw the slider... built trans or not. This CAN happen in a 5 speed.
Hope that answers your question. It probably wouldn't have happened had I used a thinner fluid in the car (just a hunch) and put the factory rubber bushings in place of the brass (which I was lazy to do, and now I'm suffering cause of it).
I'm just glad that it still goes in 6th, last time I did this, it couldn't. Trans is fine. Just hard to get in and out of 6. I drive it daily. I just have to be easy on the slamming into 5th, but considering that 4th goes to ~130... how often to I need to "slam" it into 5th?
Oh and if you guys think I'm going to sit her and say "I don't beat on the car" then PFFFFFFFFFFFF LOLOL. It's still in my possession, and any chance I get, I romp on the thing. Just like any other evo owner. Nothing to hide here... which is why I say joy rides are more than welcome. Beating on it for 12k miles on an aluminum rod built motor with an FP turbo and built trans should tell ya something
The car should be getting the AEM V2 installed beginning of next week... and tuning will be a long process as my tuner will be spending a week or two on driveability alone.
For anyone thirsty to buy it, be patient. It's worth the wait. If you want to see it before the tuner takes it (because I'm giving it to him for a week or two) contact me directly... feel free to swing by... or I can come to you.
Hope everyone had a great Halloween!
The build does not build sliders. Even the 5 speed builds don't. But since the 5 speed works differently with 5/R instead of 5/6... the 6 speed is more vulnerable to crowning the edge of the 5/6 slider. So slamming into 5th, (like I did this time around with brass shifter bushings like a moron... they have no give) or missing 3rd... will screw the slider... built trans or not. This CAN happen in a 5 speed.
Hope that answers your question. It probably wouldn't have happened had I used a thinner fluid in the car (just a hunch) and put the factory rubber bushings in place of the brass (which I was lazy to do, and now I'm suffering cause of it).
I'm just glad that it still goes in 6th, last time I did this, it couldn't. Trans is fine. Just hard to get in and out of 6. I drive it daily. I just have to be easy on the slamming into 5th, but considering that 4th goes to ~130... how often to I need to "slam" it into 5th?
Oh and if you guys think I'm going to sit her and say "I don't beat on the car" then PFFFFFFFFFFFF LOLOL. It's still in my possession, and any chance I get, I romp on the thing. Just like any other evo owner. Nothing to hide here... which is why I say joy rides are more than welcome.
Beating on it for 12k miles on an aluminum rod built motor with an FP turbo and built trans should tell ya something The car should be getting the AEM V2 installed beginning of next week... and tuning will be a long process as my tuner will be spending a week or two on driveability alone.
For anyone thirsty to buy it, be patient. It's worth the wait. If you want to see it before the tuner takes it (because I'm giving it to him for a week or two) contact me directly... feel free to swing by... or I can come to you.
Hope everyone had a great Halloween!
Last edited by MagicManRed; Nov 6, 2011 at 07:49 PM. Reason: typo