TSComptuned 2014 on going build thread
Aug 6, 2014, 02:32 AM
#167
I put hybrid boost on the blue car. didnt get a chance to get it back out yet. been so busy with tuning and building engines.
Heres some progress on my silver car before I feel lazy and dont post it up:
I swapped the gas tank. That was a PITA. but not entirely to bad of a job.
text is boring, so heres some pics to show the old and new etc.
Checked the injectors also. They were clean. But that was after running the fresh fuel threw them on the new tank. They may have had some gunk prior who knows.
I had the tank in the car now since about a week ago, I just had no time to post the pics.
What I did was swap both the fuel pumps with new, new filters, and replaced anything with rust on it.
The old fuel was definitely very brown vs what it typically is, and I went back to the pump I originally been getting the e85 from for the past 6 years and it is now out of order. So something definitely happened with that pump.
I went to amerigreen's website and sourced a couple more out. Ended up going to the one closest, which was Greenfield Rd. Tested it there before i even filled anything up with it.
That station was just rebuilt it looks like. Everything is brand new, and fresh. So that was awesome.
Tested the content straight from the pump and got this:
new fuel was clear like water, so it looks like the car will be back in business. I fired it up and ran it for a bit. didn't get a chance to take it back out yet.
Also fixed my exhaust from hitting the driveshaft bracket from simply adjusting a few hangers around and vband connections.
The old fuel definitely had some kind of contamination, because the fuel socks i had before that was ran through it, turned perfectly white like new like they were instantly cleaned once dipped in the new ethanol.
Heres some progress on my silver car before I feel lazy and dont post it up:
I swapped the gas tank. That was a PITA. but not entirely to bad of a job.
text is boring, so heres some pics to show the old and new etc.
Checked the injectors also. They were clean. But that was after running the fresh fuel threw them on the new tank. They may have had some gunk prior who knows.
I had the tank in the car now since about a week ago, I just had no time to post the pics.
What I did was swap both the fuel pumps with new, new filters, and replaced anything with rust on it.
The old fuel was definitely very brown vs what it typically is, and I went back to the pump I originally been getting the e85 from for the past 6 years and it is now out of order. So something definitely happened with that pump.
I went to amerigreen's website and sourced a couple more out. Ended up going to the one closest, which was Greenfield Rd. Tested it there before i even filled anything up with it.
That station was just rebuilt it looks like. Everything is brand new, and fresh. So that was awesome.
Tested the content straight from the pump and got this:
new fuel was clear like water, so it looks like the car will be back in business. I fired it up and ran it for a bit. didn't get a chance to take it back out yet.
Also fixed my exhaust from hitting the driveshaft bracket from simply adjusting a few hangers around and vband connections.
The old fuel definitely had some kind of contamination, because the fuel socks i had before that was ran through it, turned perfectly white like new like they were instantly cleaned once dipped in the new ethanol.
Aug 11, 2014, 12:41 AM
#168
I put about 170 miles on the car over the weekend. maybe 120 of those 170 were not in boost. I did 40+ pulls in the past 24hrs.
Didn't do any tuning yet since its pretty close as is. Its still on wastegate pressure, which is about 31psi now glancing at the gauge. AFR low 11's.
Feels pretty decent. I will make a full pass at the track at 31psi first to see where it is.
Heres a video I made of a 2nd and 3rd gear pull shifting slow at 8k. Cars now about 3200lb with me in it and it was 80-85F outside.
Didn't do any tuning yet since its pretty close as is. Its still on wastegate pressure, which is about 31psi now glancing at the gauge. AFR low 11's.
Feels pretty decent. I will make a full pass at the track at 31psi first to see where it is.
Heres a video I made of a 2nd and 3rd gear pull shifting slow at 8k. Cars now about 3200lb with me in it and it was 80-85F outside.
Aug 19, 2014, 08:26 PM
#169
So I just wanted to throw a update on here before I get back to my busy schedule of tuning customer cars and wont have time to check it for a while again since customers come before me and everything else. They are my #1 priority.
OK ill try to make this quick as possible:
1. As you know I got the Baffled oil pan to swap for the OEM stocker I had in there currently.
I pulled the OEM pan out, and while i was in there i remembered i never checked rod side clearance on the rods since shop shaved them not me, so i figured eh, ill just throw a feeler gauge in there quick and check. Well they were a bit tight. I guess not tight enough to cause issues since caps look beautiful and everything looked great inside.
But none the less on the tight side for side play, and it freaked me out, so i asked like 20 different people i trust. machine shops/ random people. All said I was ok and not to worry since if it lasted 200+ miles in boost its not gonna start giving problems now.
Well since im so meticulous I cant get it out of my head that the clearance was on the tight side and im still freaking out over it. I get to the point I just say F' it.
Put car on jack stands, started removing stuff. soon as I know the engines on the engine stand and apart LOL.
So I tore down a perfectly good running car over a clearance I was told was ok, but i wanted it looser because im nuts i guess and want to be extra safe when i turn the boost up.
Everything looked great inside. HG great. Nice bite on the oring head, no sign of wear anywhere. I forgot to take a pic of that, but i could still dig it out of the trash can. Then again with only 31-32psi and 750whp it better be.
So now that the engines on the stand i check the side clearance more thoroughly. Yes its tight and yes im glad i pulled it. this tight I don't see how it would be ok once pushing north of 800whp~. Maybe it would of been ok, maybe not. but I rather be looser then tighter when building engines. to tight everyone knows. To loose only you know.
Now having the engine out, I thought about it. I am going to a 2.3 I want the max amount of gasket seal i can possibly get because I plan on running into 900whp territory. Goal is a 155 trap and i know that doesnt come easily and it definitely requires some turning the boost knob to get there.
So im gonna sell my 2.4 from my evo if anyone is interested in it feel free to msg me. Of course after i loosen the rod side clearance a bit more.
So what I did was buy a brand new 4g63 block from mitsu, and using the most minimal bore possible .010 and then ill have plenty of sealing surface on top of the Orings in the head. I should be good until 60psi if i wanted.
Heres some pics of this:
Whats crazy is how clean the engine is. Granted it only has 300 miles on it, i never thought the pistons would get that clean in 5min with a rag and brake cleaner/wd40. I did not scrub or anything. just a regular towel shop rag. E85 is nuts!
OK ill try to make this quick as possible:
1. As you know I got the Baffled oil pan to swap for the OEM stocker I had in there currently.
I pulled the OEM pan out, and while i was in there i remembered i never checked rod side clearance on the rods since shop shaved them not me, so i figured eh, ill just throw a feeler gauge in there quick and check. Well they were a bit tight. I guess not tight enough to cause issues since caps look beautiful and everything looked great inside.
But none the less on the tight side for side play, and it freaked me out, so i asked like 20 different people i trust. machine shops/ random people. All said I was ok and not to worry since if it lasted 200+ miles in boost its not gonna start giving problems now.
Well since im so meticulous I cant get it out of my head that the clearance was on the tight side and im still freaking out over it. I get to the point I just say F' it.
Put car on jack stands, started removing stuff. soon as I know the engines on the engine stand and apart LOL.
So I tore down a perfectly good running car over a clearance I was told was ok, but i wanted it looser because im nuts i guess and want to be extra safe when i turn the boost up.
Everything looked great inside. HG great. Nice bite on the oring head, no sign of wear anywhere. I forgot to take a pic of that, but i could still dig it out of the trash can. Then again with only 31-32psi and 750whp it better be.
So now that the engines on the stand i check the side clearance more thoroughly. Yes its tight and yes im glad i pulled it. this tight I don't see how it would be ok once pushing north of 800whp~. Maybe it would of been ok, maybe not. but I rather be looser then tighter when building engines. to tight everyone knows. To loose only you know.
Now having the engine out, I thought about it. I am going to a 2.3 I want the max amount of gasket seal i can possibly get because I plan on running into 900whp territory. Goal is a 155 trap and i know that doesnt come easily and it definitely requires some turning the boost knob to get there.
So im gonna sell my 2.4 from my evo if anyone is interested in it feel free to msg me. Of course after i loosen the rod side clearance a bit more.
So what I did was buy a brand new 4g63 block from mitsu, and using the most minimal bore possible .010 and then ill have plenty of sealing surface on top of the Orings in the head. I should be good until 60psi if i wanted.
Heres some pics of this:
Whats crazy is how clean the engine is. Granted it only has 300 miles on it, i never thought the pistons would get that clean in 5min with a rag and brake cleaner/wd40. I did not scrub or anything. just a regular towel shop rag. E85 is nuts!
Last edited by tscompusa; Aug 19, 2014 at 09:18 PM.
Aug 20, 2014, 02:55 PM
#174
Thanks Oz!
Yes. Because I never took it past wastegate pressure on the 2.4. I left it sit at 31-32psi and never touched it. Car still made 750 or around that with a pretty conservative tune. It definitely had 3-4 deg more timing left in it.
I didnt plan on swapping blocks, but it just seemed like something i wanted to do after I had it out, plus I found a brand new Mitsu Block real cheap so i Had to do it.
I chose the 2.3L because I want to start with a fresh new block with the smallest bore size possible so i have a lot of surface area to seal the HG for when i go to push around 50psi.
Thanks Scott haaha! You motivated me a lot through the years to get my car where it is, so i am thankful for you for that 
Not necessarily speaking tq wise, unless you mean less tq on the 2.3 vs 2.4 then you would be correct. The 2.4 makes 3-4% more torque roughly 1:1 comparison.
But yes having less tq is an extra benefit of the 2.3. I don't want something I cant control. So less tq in this case is a bonus for what I'll be using the car for.
The main reason is the surface area for sealing the HG between the bores. I want the best possible HG seal possible for when I really crank the boost up i don't want any issues.
Now I didnt have a single issue HG wise or in general never once seen the coolant change levels on the reservoir on the 2.4 with oring head, so maybe it would of never had a issue at 40psi+. But I couldnt resist on the new 4g63 block so i just did it.
I almost talked myself into keeping the 2.4 already. Its almost like its hard to give it up. I could see if It did something I didnt like, but its been awesome and issue free.
I think with an oring head there wont ever be issues with it. But I feel safer with the 4g63 for what im going to do with the car.
The 4g64 is half filled also. I had absolutely no overheating issues in bumper to bumper traffic with a mini radiator in 95F heat.
So i'll prob half fill the 4g63 also for piece of mind.
I didnt plan on swapping blocks, but it just seemed like something i wanted to do after I had it out, plus I found a brand new Mitsu Block real cheap so i Had to do it.
I chose the 2.3L because I want to start with a fresh new block with the smallest bore size possible so i have a lot of surface area to seal the HG for when i go to push around 50psi.
Not necessarily speaking tq wise, unless you mean less tq on the 2.3 vs 2.4 then you would be correct. The 2.4 makes 3-4% more torque roughly 1:1 comparison.
But yes having less tq is an extra benefit of the 2.3. I don't want something I cant control. So less tq in this case is a bonus for what I'll be using the car for.
The main reason is the surface area for sealing the HG between the bores. I want the best possible HG seal possible for when I really crank the boost up i don't want any issues.
Now I didnt have a single issue HG wise or in general never once seen the coolant change levels on the reservoir on the 2.4 with oring head, so maybe it would of never had a issue at 40psi+. But I couldnt resist on the new 4g63 block so i just did it.
I almost talked myself into keeping the 2.4 already. Its almost like its hard to give it up. I could see if It did something I didnt like, but its been awesome and issue free.
I think with an oring head there wont ever be issues with it. But I feel safer with the 4g63 for what im going to do with the car.
The 4g64 is half filled also. I had absolutely no overheating issues in bumper to bumper traffic with a mini radiator in 95F heat.
So i'll prob half fill the 4g63 also for piece of mind.
Aug 20, 2014, 08:01 PM
#178
Can I use a standard size piston and still bore /clean the wall and hone and still have the PTW i want for the power im making?
I want to go the minimalist bore size possible.
----
I know i can just hone the factory bore, but the factory bore may not be as straight as a fresh .010 rebore with my tq plate & studs.
That's the main reason I thought I should bore it out some first. If not then yes id rather just rehone and use STD piston for sure.
Last edited by tscompusa; Aug 20, 2014 at 08:29 PM.
Aug 20, 2014, 08:12 PM
#179
I just followed the paper from Tials packaging instructions.
I still have the springs I didn't put in if you want to know. I'll tell you the colors I have left out.
It's a Tial MVR 44mm wastegate.
I used all the springs except for one if I remember correctly.
I kind of want to lower the spring pressure. I don't like being just limited to 31-32psi and not being able to go lower. Id like the ability to put 93oct in the car, and sure don't want to run 31-32psi on the first pull with that.
I still have the springs I didn't put in if you want to know. I'll tell you the colors I have left out.
It's a Tial MVR 44mm wastegate.
I used all the springs except for one if I remember correctly.
I kind of want to lower the spring pressure. I don't like being just limited to 31-32psi and not being able to go lower. Id like the ability to put 93oct in the car, and sure don't want to run 31-32psi on the first pull with that.
Aug 20, 2014, 08:49 PM
#180
I think I may change my piston order to a custom compression ratio and that is a 4-6 week delay. So I may assemble it back for now with the 2.4 and take it to the track to get a nice slip from this current shortblock first before swapping.
The 4g63 is also getting a half fill. My 4g64 is a half fill and it works perfect with the mini rad and 90F+ temps.
May as well get some track results before retiring this block to someone else first.
Just have to pull rods and set side clearance a little looser. Which was the only intent for pulling it in the first place. (I easily get carried away when things are apart :P)
That way i can take my time and build the 2.3 for it and then swap blocks the same day.
Will throw a update later on this week in here.
The 4g63 is also getting a half fill. My 4g64 is a half fill and it works perfect with the mini rad and 90F+ temps.
May as well get some track results before retiring this block to someone else first.
Just have to pull rods and set side clearance a little looser. Which was the only intent for pulling it in the first place. (I easily get carried away when things are apart :P)
That way i can take my time and build the 2.3 for it and then swap blocks the same day.
Will throw a update later on this week in here.