Full exhaust for O.S.
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Full exhaust for O.S.
Well as we all know No one is making a full bolt on exhaust yet and i did not want to wait do i picked up the RR 4-1 header with mid pipe awhile back. I have been waiting to save up and finally went ahead n purchased a 2.5" magnaflow dual O2 port Cat. and a 2.5" inlet 2.5" outlet straight in line magnaflow muffler as well, and i have a 2.5"-4" magnaflow tip to go with it. I am going yo have the muffler shop do their magic as soon as the parts come in.
Ill keep y'all posted on performance and sound asap. i have a wide ban O2 and pulley ill be install around the same time so mike at MDR performance can tune it on Evoscan!
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Ill keep y'all posted on performance and sound asap. i have a wide ban O2 and pulley ill be install around the same time so mike at MDR performance can tune it on Evoscan!
Posted from Evolutionm.net App for Android
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (9)
Gains are tricky on a normally aspirated motor, you want to match the diameter to the output of the engine so that you get the best combo of velocity and flow. While turbo cars want as little backpressure as possible, an NA car will want a certain amount of backpressure especially at lower RPM's when your stock exhaust isn't really hurting your performance. If the exhaust is too free flowing and looses too much velocity you run the risk of getting reversion which is when the exhaust pulses backflow into your engine hurting power. With 2.5" diameter mandrel bent exhaust you are probably trading some low end torque for a bit more top end horsepower which will be ok if it matches your driving style.
After taking some measurements under the car, the stock catback is 1.9" outer diameter and necks down to an equivalent of 1.5" in a few spots right before the muffler where they fitted some ugly non-mandrel bends. This uneven diameter likely kills smooth exhaust flow as having back pressure just for the sake of having back pressure isn't nearly as helpful as the proper diameter exhaust system that results in your desired back pressure for your engine setup where velocity is still relatively high.
I think a car with mild to moderate mods would see a nice overall improvement in mid to upper range torque/horsepower with a 2.0" diameter mandrel bent system where velocity is probably actually increased despite the increased diameter since it would be more even throughout the system. If you plan on going with more engine mods such as cams or ever consider a turbo, then a 2.25" system is likely as big as you would want to go where you would sacrifice a bit of low end torque but more return up top.
Gains are probably going to be 3-5 hp for a 2.0" system and maybe 5-7 for a 2.25" system but I won't know until I dyno it myself. The 2.0" system would mainly elminiate the restrictions in the catback section that is press bent. The 2.5" system will likely get more peak gains but overall it's going to sacrifice some power under the curve at lower RPM's. I really think the 2.25" diameter is the way to go for a best combo of both.
Definitely let us know what the 2.5" does for your car and if there is some way for you to measure it before and after. Dyno would be best but you can get a decent idea from running a 3rd gear pull and checking change in RPM versus time assuming same stretch of road. Plugging that data into that virtual dyno program will even give you estimated hp/torque curves.
Personally I'm just looking for a relatively quiet muffler that would balance the noise coming from the engine bay so more exhaust noise comes out the tailpipe without sounding obnoxious.
After taking some measurements under the car, the stock catback is 1.9" outer diameter and necks down to an equivalent of 1.5" in a few spots right before the muffler where they fitted some ugly non-mandrel bends. This uneven diameter likely kills smooth exhaust flow as having back pressure just for the sake of having back pressure isn't nearly as helpful as the proper diameter exhaust system that results in your desired back pressure for your engine setup where velocity is still relatively high.
I think a car with mild to moderate mods would see a nice overall improvement in mid to upper range torque/horsepower with a 2.0" diameter mandrel bent system where velocity is probably actually increased despite the increased diameter since it would be more even throughout the system. If you plan on going with more engine mods such as cams or ever consider a turbo, then a 2.25" system is likely as big as you would want to go where you would sacrifice a bit of low end torque but more return up top.
Gains are probably going to be 3-5 hp for a 2.0" system and maybe 5-7 for a 2.25" system but I won't know until I dyno it myself. The 2.0" system would mainly elminiate the restrictions in the catback section that is press bent. The 2.5" system will likely get more peak gains but overall it's going to sacrifice some power under the curve at lower RPM's. I really think the 2.25" diameter is the way to go for a best combo of both.
Definitely let us know what the 2.5" does for your car and if there is some way for you to measure it before and after. Dyno would be best but you can get a decent idea from running a 3rd gear pull and checking change in RPM versus time assuming same stretch of road. Plugging that data into that virtual dyno program will even give you estimated hp/torque curves.
Personally I'm just looking for a relatively quiet muffler that would balance the noise coming from the engine bay so more exhaust noise comes out the tailpipe without sounding obnoxious.
Last edited by Hiboost; May 9, 2013 at 07:59 AM.
#5
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
yeah i plan on running the outlander on evoscan and of course we will do 3rd gear pulls and compare the data on the virtual dyno sheets. Im not looking for low end of the line tq. or anything, it is not the same as my Evo IX MR, i just want a better sound & better look. i let y'all know who it sounds and runs before n after....cause we all know the proof is in the tune!
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#7
Evolving Member
Any updates on this?
I noticed how crappy the OEM exhaust is when the dealer had it up on the lift for me to see where the hitch location would be. (told them that was a selling point for us since we needed something to put the bike rack onto)
I work for an OEM exhaust manufacturer and could not believe how "cheezy" it's construction was.
(My plant does the Vette, Viper, along with various GM, Chrysler and Ford systems.)
There's NO WAY this system would pass our QA requirements on even the visual appearance.
I noticed how crappy the OEM exhaust is when the dealer had it up on the lift for me to see where the hitch location would be. (told them that was a selling point for us since we needed something to put the bike rack onto)
I work for an OEM exhaust manufacturer and could not believe how "cheezy" it's construction was.
(My plant does the Vette, Viper, along with various GM, Chrysler and Ford systems.)
There's NO WAY this system would pass our QA requirements on even the visual appearance.
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#8
Evolved Member
Any updates on this?
I noticed how crappy the OEM exhaust is when the dealer had it up on the lift for me to see where the hitch location would be. (told them that was a selling point for us since we needed something to put the bike rack onto)
I work for an OEM exhaust manufacturer and could not believe how "cheezy" it's construction was.
(My plant does the Vette, Viper, along with various GM, Chrysler and Ford systems.)
There's NO WAY this system would pass our QA requirements on even the visual appearance.
I noticed how crappy the OEM exhaust is when the dealer had it up on the lift for me to see where the hitch location would be. (told them that was a selling point for us since we needed something to put the bike rack onto)
I work for an OEM exhaust manufacturer and could not believe how "cheezy" it's construction was.
(My plant does the Vette, Viper, along with various GM, Chrysler and Ford systems.)
There's NO WAY this system would pass our QA requirements on even the visual appearance.
#9
Evolving Member
Heck, just look at the exhaust quality or bends on Ram 1500-diesil trucks, Silverado's or Malibu's. Good stainless, mandrel bent products that don't have kinks in them. (a couple do intentionally I'll admit) All Walker, Dynomax and Thrush systems are Tenneco made. VW and Audi are made by us also. Good stuff.
I'm thinking of adding a resonator into a new system to kill some of the drone sound at part throttle or HyWy speed. (not sure at this point if it's the exhaust or the trans tho)
#10
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
I have not put the exhaust on the outlander just yet I have the cash too but am saving a bit more so I can do my pulley install, wide ban 02 install, and a full road tune to get it running right. It will be probablly next month when I get it all done.
#11
Evolved Member
iTrader: (9)
I looked closer at the setup under the car and the RRE headers are 2.5" which lead into the stock cat at 2.1". The catback continues on at 1.9" and then it crimps down in the axle bend to the muffler to what appears to 1.5" equivalent and must be killing flow. The muffler inlets and outlets go back up to a 2.1" OD.
So right now the Stock Catback is the biggest restriction followed by the Muffler and then the Cat from what I can tell. I still feel a good 2.25" mandrel bent setup throughout would give reasonable gains across the board.
So right now the Stock Catback is the biggest restriction followed by the Muffler and then the Cat from what I can tell. I still feel a good 2.25" mandrel bent setup throughout would give reasonable gains across the board.
#12
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
i saw that too when i was underneith it as well, and hopefully 2.5" will do the same coming out of the RRM 4-1 header and in to the 2.5" hiflow cat. Guess we will see here soon, fingers X'ed. I really just looking to get rid of that lag in the accelorator mainly dont really care about the #'s.
#13
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
I got the outlander up on the rack today at the muffler shop. The header for the lancer bolted on great, BUT I did find out what RRM meant when they said it would need modifying.
The mid pipe that comes with it well that is useless, just scrap it cause the way the flange is to mount the 2 up it will not fit do to the transfer case is in the was. The flange on the header itself is about 2mm from touching the transfer case, which is plenty of clearance cause they are both solid mounted and will move as 1.
So in short the MODIFICATION is being solved with a 4" flex pipe at 2 1/2" in diameter. I am having it slipped over the headers collar and welding it up, this will give clearance and the flex that the rest of the exhaust system will need to be functional with out breaking anything.
This will work for me as I am also doing a FULL exhaust set up and not using any part of the stock system so I cam mount the 2 1/2" magnaflow cat with dual O2 sensors right up and just run a straight pipe back to the in line 2 1/2" magnaflow muffler. and a small section back to the magnaflow tip I am also using. THe flex pipe should be at the shop tomorrow around 11am so hopefully I should have the car back tomorrow before 5pm.
I am excited to see how it is going to work. I will take some pictures so everyone can see what I'm talking about when it is all done...oh and the header looks so clean in there...
The mid pipe that comes with it well that is useless, just scrap it cause the way the flange is to mount the 2 up it will not fit do to the transfer case is in the was. The flange on the header itself is about 2mm from touching the transfer case, which is plenty of clearance cause they are both solid mounted and will move as 1.
So in short the MODIFICATION is being solved with a 4" flex pipe at 2 1/2" in diameter. I am having it slipped over the headers collar and welding it up, this will give clearance and the flex that the rest of the exhaust system will need to be functional with out breaking anything.
This will work for me as I am also doing a FULL exhaust set up and not using any part of the stock system so I cam mount the 2 1/2" magnaflow cat with dual O2 sensors right up and just run a straight pipe back to the in line 2 1/2" magnaflow muffler. and a small section back to the magnaflow tip I am also using. THe flex pipe should be at the shop tomorrow around 11am so hopefully I should have the car back tomorrow before 5pm.
I am excited to see how it is going to work. I will take some pictures so everyone can see what I'm talking about when it is all done...oh and the header looks so clean in there...
#14
Any pics of the underbelly of the beast?
If you could just snap a bunch of pics from different angles while it's on the rack that could be really useful for various future discussions on exhaust, drivetrain, AWD system, or suspension mods.
If you could just snap a bunch of pics from different angles while it's on the rack that could be really useful for various future discussions on exhaust, drivetrain, AWD system, or suspension mods.
#15
Evolving Member
Looking forward to this, can't wait to see the outcome. I've planned on doing the same type of system, only using 2.25" pipe. (No header tho) I'll be using GM stainless OEM tubing, bullet style resonator and the magnaflow inline muffler. A GM OE Impala tip will be use also. I'll just have the shop do the work.