Live4Redline's AutoX #114 ASP Evo IX Thread
Apr 14, 2013, 07:17 PM
#2
TODAY'S TURN OF EVENTS...
What better way to start off a thread then with some fun and tears.
I wanted to start the 2013 year off with some new wheels and tires. So I did my research and asked around for the most competitive option and went with some 18x10 RPF1's with an 285/30 Hoosier A6 tire. I've never had any experience with slicks since my first autocross was July of last year in a fwd OZ Rally Lancer so I was expecting a tough learning curve jumping head first into a playing field typically reserved for a more seasoned competitor. What i wasn't expecting was how much of a pain in the *** it was to fit an 18x10 on my Evo IX. It definitely would have been nice to know i was gonna have to put +40 man hours into the car to bolt a set of wheels and tires that i had been told would fit. None the less, I made it work and completed my second event on the new wheels and third over all event of the year today.
Sadly fears become nightmares when you run tight clearances...
I have four or five events on these still rather new and very awesome coilovers. Take note that the sleeve there is ground down to a point were there is almost no tooth anymore on that lip.
I have two events on these rather expensive tires and the first event was a simi-wet one. This the tire that had sex with my coilover.
In the end its a little regrettable and might make you want to cry a little on the inside but its not as bad as it looks. The sleeve is a wear item and can be replaced rather affordably. The tire damage looks worse then it truly is, and its only on the inside of the single tire and shouldn't cause me any foreseeable future issues. And lastly and most importantly... even with this little hiccup which involved extreme amounts of G-Forces pulling the camber adjustment at the camber bolt out half a degree on an already tight clearance setup, i was still able to pull extremely impressive top times of the day at the event which made it all worth it.
Overall my consensuses on the new wheels is that it was a lot of work, there's not a lot of room for error but the results are definitely worth it and an absolute blast to experience.
<<Video's of my resent events to come.>>
What better way to start off a thread then with some fun and tears.
I wanted to start the 2013 year off with some new wheels and tires. So I did my research and asked around for the most competitive option and went with some 18x10 RPF1's with an 285/30 Hoosier A6 tire. I've never had any experience with slicks since my first autocross was July of last year in a fwd OZ Rally Lancer so I was expecting a tough learning curve jumping head first into a playing field typically reserved for a more seasoned competitor. What i wasn't expecting was how much of a pain in the *** it was to fit an 18x10 on my Evo IX. It definitely would have been nice to know i was gonna have to put +40 man hours into the car to bolt a set of wheels and tires that i had been told would fit. None the less, I made it work and completed my second event on the new wheels and third over all event of the year today.
Sadly fears become nightmares when you run tight clearances...
I have four or five events on these still rather new and very awesome coilovers. Take note that the sleeve there is ground down to a point were there is almost no tooth anymore on that lip.
I have two events on these rather expensive tires and the first event was a simi-wet one. This the tire that had sex with my coilover.
In the end its a little regrettable and might make you want to cry a little on the inside but its not as bad as it looks. The sleeve is a wear item and can be replaced rather affordably. The tire damage looks worse then it truly is, and its only on the inside of the single tire and shouldn't cause me any foreseeable future issues. And lastly and most importantly... even with this little hiccup which involved extreme amounts of G-Forces pulling the camber adjustment at the camber bolt out half a degree on an already tight clearance setup, i was still able to pull extremely impressive top times of the day at the event which made it all worth it.
Overall my consensuses on the new wheels is that it was a lot of work, there's not a lot of room for error but the results are definitely worth it and an absolute blast to experience.
<<Video's of my resent events to come.>>
Apr 15, 2013, 08:21 AM
#9
Originally I was told to use +20mm front and +5mm rear but clearance on the front fender was still an issue after a roll and stretch. So I went with a +15mm / +5mm spacer set instead. If I get the chance in the future I may even move to a +17mm front instead.
I'm running -3.2 camber in the front and -2.2 in the rear on stock camber bolts with the camber plates set to -1 degree.
Im not willing to go back to a stock intercooler so STU is a stretch.
I'm running -3.2 camber in the front and -2.2 in the rear on stock camber bolts with the camber plates set to -1 degree.
Im not willing to go back to a stock intercooler so STU is a stretch.
Apr 15, 2013, 10:26 AM
#10
Originally I was told to use +20mm front and +5mm rear but clearance on the front fender was still an issue after a roll and stretch. So I went with a +15mm / +5mm spacer set instead. If I get the chance in the future I may even move to a +17mm front instead.
I'm running -3.2 camber in the front and -2.2 in the rear on stock camber bolts with the camber plates set to -1 degree.
Im not willing to go back to a stock intercooler so STU is a stretch.
I'm running -3.2 camber in the front and -2.2 in the rear on stock camber bolts with the camber plates set to -1 degree.
Im not willing to go back to a stock intercooler so STU is a stretch.
Edit: I should say "was". Theirs no way I can get back into ST now.
Apr 15, 2013, 10:42 AM
#11
^ That too.
I am looking for some advice on adding a bit more rotation. I got a touch of it this weekend messing with my damping settings and stiffening the rear a couple clicks but I'd like a little more.
I need to get some specs posted up and don't quote me becouse I need to recheck what the final setup was on the springs but want to say 14k/12k spring rates, stock front and rear sway bars, running 4 from hard front dampening and 2 from hard rear, 38psi front tire pressures and 36 rear and shows proper wear on tire walls, pretty much all stock everything else suspension wise.
I've read that most people run a larger rear sway bar and stock front bar. Would a larger rear bar help me get some more rotation?
What else could I do to get a little more rotation or controlled rear kick out?
I am looking for some advice on adding a bit more rotation. I got a touch of it this weekend messing with my damping settings and stiffening the rear a couple clicks but I'd like a little more.
I need to get some specs posted up and don't quote me becouse I need to recheck what the final setup was on the springs but want to say 14k/12k spring rates, stock front and rear sway bars, running 4 from hard front dampening and 2 from hard rear, 38psi front tire pressures and 36 rear and shows proper wear on tire walls, pretty much all stock everything else suspension wise.
I've read that most people run a larger rear sway bar and stock front bar. Would a larger rear bar help me get some more rotation?
What else could I do to get a little more rotation or controlled rear kick out?
Apr 15, 2013, 11:07 AM
#12
Is that 14F/12R? What C/O's do you have? Most people run higher rates in the rear to help rotation. Given the difference in suspension geometry between the Mcpherson front and multi-link rear the "effective" spring rate is a little different so it isnt an apples to apples comparison of rates from front to back.
At what point in the corner are you looking for more rotation. What I found is that a stiffer bar gave me far more lift oversteer as well as just oversteer upon corner entry. Getting back on the power though, my car in its current state was hopeless.
I sent my rear diff off to Jon@TRE and just got it back this past Friday and threw it in. I need to break it in 1st before I test it out but from everything I've read and everyone I've talked to, the upgraded rear diff is amazing and will transform the car. I cannot wait to test it out.
At what point in the corner are you looking for more rotation. What I found is that a stiffer bar gave me far more lift oversteer as well as just oversteer upon corner entry. Getting back on the power though, my car in its current state was hopeless.
I sent my rear diff off to Jon@TRE and just got it back this past Friday and threw it in. I need to break it in 1st before I test it out but from everything I've read and everyone I've talked to, the upgraded rear diff is amazing and will transform the car. I cannot wait to test it out.
Apr 15, 2013, 08:15 PM
#14
Correction, it is indeed front 12k/14k rear spring rates on the 5th Gen FortuneAuto 510's with all the upgrades and custom valving for aggressive AutoX.
The Enkei RPF-1, 18x10, only come in the one offset of +38.
The increased rear dampening changes gave me a small amount of over all +rotation and I would like a little more over all. I would settle for increased corner entry rotation ideally without sacrificing to much some where else. I was informed that I was lifting the rear tire with the stock rear bar, so adding more rear bar would effectively add more lift and more rotation in theory???
I need to look into what all I can do with the rear end in ASP. I have done the plate correction so far and a self modified rear sight glass. Bought the correct sight glass, added the standard amount of fluid and then with a little calculation and a jack under the rear of the car added some additional fluid and installed the sightglass in the rear and checked the fill line once the car was leveled again. Did adding more fluid help any thing...? Who knows, lol.
The Enkei RPF-1, 18x10, only come in the one offset of +38.
The increased rear dampening changes gave me a small amount of over all +rotation and I would like a little more over all. I would settle for increased corner entry rotation ideally without sacrificing to much some where else. I was informed that I was lifting the rear tire with the stock rear bar, so adding more rear bar would effectively add more lift and more rotation in theory???
I need to look into what all I can do with the rear end in ASP. I have done the plate correction so far and a self modified rear sight glass. Bought the correct sight glass, added the standard amount of fluid and then with a little calculation and a jack under the rear of the car added some additional fluid and installed the sightglass in the rear and checked the fill line once the car was leveled again. Did adding more fluid help any thing...? Who knows, lol.