evo setup for autox stock class

[glockprime]

i think it'd be a good idea to have a thread to share setup/mod info for autox stock class... e.g., specific alignment settings, tires, shocks, bars, etc...

i've searched and read thru numerous threads but couldn't find this kind of info... lots of talk about classing, driving technique, and non stock class mods... but pls let me know if this has come up before and i've simply missed it in the search...

[evofan0717]

I have asked the same question with regards to track day HPDE setups, but unfortunately there are too many real gear heads here. I took mine out to Sears point bone stock and it responded beautifully. I real don't think there is much for you to do as far as setup. I just made sure I checked all my bolts, fluids and tire pressures. after each run check your pressure again and if you have a tire thermometer check the tire temps from 3 points. You probably know all this so I'll stop. Have fun!!!

BTW good choice of cars, guns (from your name) but sorry man bad choice of teams!! GO NINERS!!! All kidding aside neither of our teams did SH!T this year!

[jbrennen]

I can tell you what I used in A Stock in 2003...

For alignment, I went with maximum negative camber up front (-1.6 to -1.8 degrees), -1.5 degrees rear camber, zero toe front, and 1mm toe in at the rear.

Pressures in the stock A046 tires, I ran with 42 psi front and 41 psi rear -- those are the hot pressures.

Pressures on Hoosier 245/40R17 A3S03 tires, I ran with 45 psi (hot) all around. I ran the Hoosiers on Enkei RPF1 rims, 17x8, 35mm offset. I saved about 40 pounds unsprung weight with that wheel/tire combination.

I used the Buschur "muffler delete pipe" for some events... That was more of a weight savings thing than a power thing for me... Actually finding good weight reduction in Stock isn't easy, but replacing the stock muffler with a straight pipe saves about 18 pounds.

I didn't mess with struts, bars, brake pads, air filter, etc.

[FT@SELGP]

Originally posted by evofan0717
I have asked the same question with regards to track day HPDE setups, but unfortunately there are too many real gear heads here. I took mine out to Sears point bone stock and it responded beautifully. I real don't think there is much for you to do as far as setup. I just made sure I checked all my bolts, fluids and tire pressures. after each run check your pressure again and if you have a tire thermometer check the tire temps from 3 points. You probably know all this so I'll stop. Have fun!!!

BTW good choice of cars, guns (from your name) but sorry man bad choice of teams!! GO NINERS!!! All kidding aside neither of our teams did SH!T this year!

I cannot answer the question for autoxes in stock class, JBrennen has more experience on that However, for track-specific setup the body roll is excessive on the Evo, spring upgrade and preferably coilover upgrade would provide a better balance. Additionally, the stock brake pads, fluid and lines are must go items.

I would not initially change the A/R bars on the Evo, they are pretty stiff, but depending on the spring rates one may put on, a slight decrease in stiffness may be well suited.

[Chris in HB]

If you are prone to oversteer, DO NOT install a rear strut tower bar. If you end up getting the Evo to push, then it can be handy, especially if you're used to a RWD car.

[jbrennen]

Originally posted by Chris in HB
If you are prone to oversteer, DO NOT install a rear strut tower bar.

It will also bump you to Street Prepared. The rear strut bar is not a factory option on the Evo -- it's a dealer installed accessory. As such, it's illegal in Stock class.

[urbanknight]

Here's a few guidelines for those who are recommending things (since the strut bars, springs, and coilovers suggested above are not allowed in SCCA stock classes). Here is the jist of the rules for the stock class:

- any exhaust AFTER the cat is allowed (90db noise restriction)
- any brake pad and rotor of STOCK SIZE is allowed.
- any alignment settings within the range of adjustment capable of the stock parts.
- any FRONT sway bar (or removal of) is allowed. all other must be stock.
- aftermarket shocks of STOCK SIZE AND TYPE are allowed. This allows adjustable shocks, but not edfc or the like.
- any tire that fits properly on STOCK SIZE AND OFFSET rim is allowed, and must be DOT approved
- any rim that is the SAME SIZE AND OFFSET as stock (+/- .25") is allowed.

That's pretty much everything you're allowed to do in stock category. I'd recommend playing with camber and Koni shocks, since that will be your biggest performance upgrade in the competition.

[jwtodd60]

The alignment I used was -1.8 camber or so in the front, -0.8 or so in the rear. Front toe was about 0, rear was toed in about .1" IIRC. Of course, these numbers are from when the car was last aligned, which was back in June I think. By the end of the season though, the car had endured several months of DC area pot holes, so I may have been running something significantly different by season's end. I plan on being more concientious about my alignment next year, but we'll see.

For wheels, I ran Volk CE28N-L 17x8, 33mm offset. Nice and light, but pricey; the Enkei RPF1 delivers much better bang for the buck.

For tires, I ran Kumho Ecsta V700s. They seemed to stick pretty well, but I was not pleased with how well they held up on my car. They took a real beating on the outside shoulder. I destroyed one in only its fifth AX and corded a couple of others a few events later. When I trashed the first one, I thought maybe my pressures were too low (42f, 35-37r most times), but I bumped up my pressures and still had problems. I am probably going to do Hoosiers in 04.

For the front sway bar, I played with the Cusco adjustable mount. It allows an extra 16% stiffness on the VIII, but it didn't seem to make much difference. I am planning on trying a bigger bar this season; I am not sure it will help, but I am thinking the body roll we get in our cars is what was eating up my Kumhos.

For struts/shocks, I stayed stock. I toyed with the idea of doing custom Konis, but they are $$ and I think the stock units are pretty good. Still, I will probably go that way if my driving improves.

For the exhaust, I put on a JIC Spartan DE Type 2 full Ti. I didn't dyno it, but the seat of my pants likes it. Sound is slightly quiter than stock and it is a bunch lighter.

As for other mods, I ran a K&N filter, Carbotech Bobcat brake pads, and a Schroth Harness.

I think that's it...

JW
Local A Stock champ, for now

[Evo8RA]

Brian - I know that many National-class drivers use double adjustable Konis. Do you know if they are made for the Evo8 or would someone have to get a set custom built?

P.S. - Don't forget the K&N drop-in filter for Stock class.

Thanks, Mark

Originally posted by urbanknight
Here's a few guidelines for those who are recommending things (since the strut bars, springs, and coilovers suggested above are not allowed in SCCA stock classes). Here is the jist of the rules for the stock class:

- any exhaust AFTER the cat is allowed (90db noise restriction)
- any brake pad and rotor of STOCK SIZE is allowed.
- any alignment settings within the range of adjustment capable of the stock parts.
- any FRONT sway bar (or removal of) is allowed. all other must be stock.
- aftermarket shocks of STOCK SIZE AND TYPE are allowed. This allows adjustable shocks, but not edfc or the like.
- any tire that fits properly on STOCK SIZE AND OFFSET rim is allowed, and must be DOT approved
- any rim that is the SAME SIZE AND OFFSET as stock (+/- .25") is allowed.

That's pretty much everything you're allowed to do in stock category. I'd recommend playing with camber and Koni shocks, since that will be your biggest performance upgrade in the competition.

[jwtodd60]

DA Konis are not available off the shelf for the Evo VIII, but they will make you a custom set for $2200 (IIRC) plus a set of donor struts/shocks. I picked up a set of used dampers from someone who put on coilovers thinking I would send those to Koni and have them build me a set, but I have since decided to put the money into more seat time with the Evolution autocross school. I didn't ask Koni about an SA setup, but I think someone on here said they were like $1600 or something like that.

And as far as I know, no one sells replacement dampers off the shelf for the Evo VIII, adjustable or otherwise. At least not yet...

JW

[FT@SELGP]

IMHO, you dont need double adjustables for auto-x. Single adjustable should do just fine and have less of a complexity in terms of setup. But that's just me

[Evo8RA]

Double adjustable aren't required for Stock class unless you are competing against National-level A-Stock cars/drivers and are trying to win. To win at the Nationals, you want every edge available.

[jpgunn]

Does the K&N filter help? Any proof?

James

[urbanknight]

Originally posted by jwtodd60
For the front sway bar, I played with the Cusco adjustable mount. It allows an extra 16% stiffness on the VIII, but it didn't seem to make much difference. I am planning on trying a bigger bar this season; I am not sure it will help, but I am thinking the body roll we get in our cars is what was eating up my Kumhos.

I would have thought a bigger front bar would make the car push worse, unless you feel that you're getting too much oversteer?

I didn't know Koni didn't make shocks for the Evo. I had heard some people talking about the DAs like they were a common item. Now I know, and ouch that's a lot of money. Good reason for going into ESP (IMO)

[jwtodd60]

Originally posted by urbanknight

I would have thought a bigger front bar would make the car push worse, unless you feel that you're getting too much oversteer?

Well, my logic sort of goes like this...

- I can change the balance of the car a bunch just by playing with tire pressures.

- We get too much body roll and I think it was part of the problem with my Kumhos. We get a decent amount of camber from the factory, but with that much roll, we end up beating the hell out of the outside of the tire anyway.

- The only stock-class-legal ways I can attack the body roll issue are dampers and the front sway bar.

- The only available damper option would seem to be $$ custom Konis, and those will only help in transitions anyway.

- That leaves me with going to a stiffer front bar. And if anything, putting that Cusco bracket on there shifted the balance towards oversteer. Which really hosed me up the first couple of times I ran it because I too expected the opposite.

So I am planning to try a bigger bar. It's a relatively cheap mod and I can always take it off if I think it was a mistake. Stay tuned...

JW