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Old Jan 5, 2007, 02:09 PM   #61
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I was saying crazy in terms of how drastic the difference is...it's quite an improvement.
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Old Jan 5, 2007, 02:27 PM   #62
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I was saying crazy in terms of how drastic the difference is...it's quite an improvement.
Sorry, thought you were thinking I had some super secret high end go fast goodies hidden in my engine bay somewhere
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Old Jan 5, 2007, 03:40 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by EVOlutionary View Post
Sorry, thought you were thinking I had some super secret high end go fast goodies hidden in my engine bay somewhere
NAWS!
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Old Jan 8, 2007, 11:24 AM   #64
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ok guys, lets bring the alignment end of the deal. I have seen front camber range from -2.4 to -2.9, while the rear with anything above -1 up to -2. Most guys run a litle front toe out 1/32 - 1/8 of an inch, and rear toe seems vary from light toe-in to slight toe out. Caster is the only part of the alignment where everyone seems to agree and is left at zero. Why such a big variance in alignment setting for the same platform with aprox. same weight? Are the different approaches influenced by driver preference and feel, or is everyone actually using a pyrometer to maximize tires potential? Those of you that use a pyrometer to adjust your alignment, what were the temp recorded that justified your choice of settings?
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Old Jan 8, 2007, 12:56 PM   #65
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Tires being equal, I think alot of the camber differences have to do with spring rates and ride heights of the various cars. In the front, as the suspension compresses you lose negative camber (get more positive). The cars that lean more in the corners or are run lower to the ground need to run more static negative camber to keep the same contact patch in the corners.

Now if you are talking different sizes and types of tires, I think that would add a whole new variable to the equasion.

And then there are some that probably have no clue why they are running the camber they are. . . .

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Old Jan 8, 2007, 01:46 PM   #66
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Caster is the only part of the alignment where everyone seems to agree and is left at zero...
Who says?

I have adjustable caster top plates that help me not to lose dynamic negative camber as the wheels are turned.

Also has the benefit of adding a little more force or feel to counter the Evo's overly light steering - this helps me to not hit cones with the rear by "over" steering.

If you're interesting in finding out more about the plates, let me know.

Rick
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Old Jan 8, 2007, 01:58 PM   #67
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"Originally Posted by kekek
Whats the price tag on that bad boy?

"Sorry, just found out today the car sold. The car is still in his showroom, but it has been paid for and is awaiting delivery to the lucky new owner."




I know who bought the BSP championship car :O
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Last edited by SS RX7 r2; Jan 12, 2007 at 05:33 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2007, 05:11 PM   #68
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Looking at the nationals results, I don't think big horsepower or torque are needed to compete in SM. The first place EVO in BSP would of been a close second in SM. I don't know what power he is putting down but according to the rules of BSP, he shouldn't be over 350 awhp (no turbo upgrades or cams are allowed).
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Old Jan 16, 2007, 06:04 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SS RX7 r2 View Post
"Originally Posted by kekek
Whats the price tag on that bad boy?

"Sorry, just found out today the car sold. The car is still in his showroom, but it has been paid for and is awaiting delivery to the lucky new owner."




I know who bought the BSP championship car :O
you guys and your secrets....east coast evo's are coming out to ruffle feathers this year
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Old Jan 22, 2007, 11:25 AM   #70
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I also know who bought the BSP car.
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Old Jan 30, 2007, 11:07 AM   #71
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Hi guys,
We need to keep this thread going. Whiteline recently came out with a roll center correction kit that raises the roll center allowing the car to be lowered without screwing the roll geometry. What do you guys think of it ?
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Old Jan 30, 2007, 12:00 PM   #72
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Hi guys,
We need to keep this thread going. Whiteline recently came out with a roll center correction kit that raises the roll center allowing the car to be lowered without screwing the roll geometry. What do you guys think of it ?
I suggest doing a search. There is a lengthy thread somewhere with some very good input. Maybe in the advanced section.
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Old Jan 30, 2007, 12:41 PM   #73
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Hi guys,
We need to keep this thread going. Whiteline recently came out with a roll center correction kit that raises the roll center allowing the car to be lowered without screwing the roll geometry. What do you guys think of it ?
Already installed. Won't have a good impression of how well it works till I put the Ohlins and fatty tires back on in the spring.
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Old Jan 30, 2007, 12:50 PM   #74
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im looking into those myself. how was the install? looks easy but almost seems as theres more to it than what it looks.
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Old Jan 30, 2007, 01:45 PM   #75
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I had the Mitsu dealership do it at the same time they were installing a new clutch. I think they said the hardest part was getting the ball joints separated from the spindle.
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