Changing brake fluid

Higgity Hank · Jan 26, 2004, 10:27 PM

Bleeding the brakes is the exact same as bleeding the brakes on any other car. You own an OZ, so you don't have any ABS crap to worry about. Basically, it's a 2 man job... (could go as many as 4, or as few as 1... but that's a different post)

Start at the wheel furthest from the master cyclinder, (passenger rear) take off the wheel, and behind the brake assembly, you'll see a little screw (should be roundabout 8mm in size) It'll have a nipple on it, and a hole in the end. Usually covered with a little rubber cap. You'll want to be careful in turning the screw, because if you break it... (wait for it...) You're screwed. It's not an uber strong bolt... so be careful. A little PB Blaster goes a LONG way in this. Anyhoo, once you're sure it's free, and turns easily, you'll notice that it's leaking a bit of brake fluid from all your turning. Which is what its supposed to do... so you're on the right track. Take a little peice of hose, and put it on the end of the nipple, and run it into a cup/jar/whatever... just don't let the brake fluid come in contact with anything... it's nasty ****. The second person should be sitting in the car, ready for your signal. On your signal have them press the brake all the way to the floor, while you open the screw, and while they're pressing have them let you know how far it's going down... like 3...2...1... close... or similar. You'll want to close the bleeder screw before they bottom out. Then do it again... be sure to keep the Master cyclinder topped off with fluid, and bleed that brake till the fluid is new fluid.
Then move to the brake second furthest from the MC. (drivers rear)
Next would be Passenger front
then Driver front.

be sure to close the bleeder screw before they bottom out the brake pedal, or you risk air in the lines. To test, drive the car... SLOWLY, and press on the brakes. It should be a pretty solid pedal. Pumping the brake shouldn't affect stopping more than giving it a little pusling feel. If the first step is kinda soft, and the second one stops the car more quickly... bleed them again, you've got air in the lines.

It's not rocket science, but it's not something you really want to screw up, since it's a safety issue.

Questions: hit me up with a PM.

**urbanknight** · Jan 26, 2004, 11:24 PM

Thanks so much Hank! Any idea how much fluid is required for the Lancer? Even so, thanks for the instructions. I am new to doing many of these things to any car, so it's all rocket science to me

Higgity Hank · Jan 27, 2004, 08:28 PM

Buy 2 quarts... if you only use one, return the other.

It doesn't take a lot, but you're gonna scew up (it's inevitable)

UglyAngelX · Feb 4, 2004, 08:20 AM

Another way of doing this and eliminating the 2nd person, would be doing it with the use of a MityVac. Same steps, but use the vac to suck out the air and bring the fluid into the lines....all directions are included with the system and it is about 40-60 depending on where you buy it and which version you get. It is a useful tool and eliminates a lot if time and guessing. MityVac can also be used for testing vaccum lines and other stuff. Tool well worth the money for it's many uses.

**HobieKopek** · Feb 6, 2004, 02:24 PM

Please read the announcement in the how to/install forum.

**Blacksheepdj** · Apr 22, 2005, 09:18 AM

Do you bleed the clutch as well? (yes, I'm cross posting. Sorry)

Eddyo · Apr 28, 2005, 10:27 AM

What if you have a lancer ls with the abs? I got some steel braided brake lines and got some of that RBF 600. I want to flush the old fluid and run the new stuff after installing the brake lines.

Danno · Apr 28, 2005, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Higgity Hank

Bleeding the brakes is the exact same as bleeding the brakes on any other car. You own an OZ, so you don't have any ABS crap to worry about.

The advice is good but I can see it causeing you a problem in the future.

My OZ has ABS.

blaze_125 · Apr 20, 2006, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danno

The advice is good but I can see it causeing you a problem in the future.

My OZ has ABS.

Out of the dead thread, cause I'll be changing my brake fluid this weekend. So my OZ also has ABS. Is there a different procedure for cars with ABS brakes?

And what's up with this?

Quote:

be sure to keep the Master cyclinder topped off with fluid, and bleed that brake till the fluid is new fluid

As you're bleeding, you gotta keep adding new fluid in the tank? Won't both mix together?

Once you've done it on the first bleed screw, the system should be filled with new fluid, and there should only be old fluid in the other 3 lines right... So basically, only the first bleed screw is going to take longer as you have to empty the whole old fluid?

**Blacksheepdj** · Apr 21, 2006, 10:45 AM

You gotta keep adding, yeah. Otherwise, you get air in the lines from that end.

Easiest way - get colored fluid. I got ATE's Super Blue, so I just knew to stop bleeding when the fluid turned blue. Next change, I'll get a normal yellow or clear.

Yes, the first screw will take the longest.

blaze_125 · Apr 24, 2006, 07:28 AM

Well... I did it and jeez did it ever need to be changed(3 year old fluid). My brakes felt really inconsistent before the bleed. When I bled the lines the amount of air that was in there was just incredible.

Now it brakes like a champ. To anyone who thinks their brakes are s*cking really bad lately, try bleeding them.

rsardelli · Oct 13, 2009, 07:33 PM

im having my buddy who is a harley davidson master tech help me with this. The great thing about that is all HD MST's need to go through a course to familiarize them with almost all OEM Brembo systems since Brembo is the new OEM brake system on all 2010 HD motorcycles, and he went to school to work on cars as well. If your only option is a H-D tech, he prolly know what hes doing.

blaze_125 · Oct 14, 2009, 06:55 AM

Nice 3 year bump!