evolutionm.net - Home of the Lancer Evolution
Home Features Community Marketplace Registry Garage

Go Back   evolutionm.net > Lancer Forums > Lancer (ES, LS, OZ) 2002-2007 Forums > Lancer How Tos / Installations > Lancer How To Requests / Questions / Tips
New! Use your Facebook, Google, AIM & Yahoo accounts to securely log into this site, click logo to login  

Welcome to EvolutionM.net!
Welcome to EvolutionM.net.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old Mar 17, 2005, 01:29 AM   #1
Newbie
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
kforkorea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 26

Drives: 03 Mitsubishi Lancer ES

Header Install

How easy is the headers to install? all I do is unscrew the bolts and bolt the headers on and connect the downpipe right?

thanks
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2005, 01:33 AM   #2
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (23)
 
grubiaco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: central cali
Posts: 944

Drives: Modified 2003 OZ Lancer (RRM tuned)

Send a message via AIM to grubiaco
headers

Basically. The only problem is the lower left bolt and just to let you know before the rest of the people on this forum slaughter you. You can use the "search" function to find this topic and since I didn't explain to you which methods are out there. Use the search function and practice on your first topic. Enjoy your headers.
__________________
Items for sale: stock shift knob, stock fuel rail (perfect for boring), stock oz sway with perches, bushings, and bolts (perfect for es guys), vortech 12:1 FMU, 2g DSM BOV, Greddy e-manage with plug n play harness, stock clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing, '97 mirage act TOB, and the driver side headlight housing.

PART OUT: http://forums.evolutionm.net/sale-engine-drivetrain-power/322373-part-out-03-lancer-parts.html

Link to my ride!
http://registry.evolutionm.net/viewride.php?vid=3463
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2005, 01:35 AM   #3
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
rallyme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: east coast,md
Posts: 158

Drives: 04 lancer es

ahhhhhhhhhhh, it sounds easier than it is. tell you what, start with the lower left nut. then come back and tell us how easy it was,lol. but seriously, do a search. not trying to be a smartass but ALOT has been written on this subject, check it out. DAMN, beat me to it!
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2005, 07:02 AM   #4
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (7)
 
blaze_125's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: QC
Posts: 2,508

Drives: Yellow OZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by rallyme
start with the lower left nut. then come back and tell us how easy it was,lol.
I did 3 header so far and the best way to get that s@#ker off is to splice it open. The rope thing didn't work out to well for me. The last time I worked on the header it took me not even 2 minutes to get that bolt off. The stock bolts are made of copper. Really soft so really easy to splice open with a wood cisor. Just make sure you don't damage the stud thread.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic who worked on my transmission
I'm 63 years old and even I don't have that much play in my shaft
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2005, 07:17 AM   #5
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (5)
 
Shingen's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,655

Drives: 2003 Lancer OZ Rally

Quote:
Originally Posted by blaze_125
I did 3 header so far and the best way to get that s@#ker off is to splice it open. The rope thing didn't work out to well for me. The last time I worked on the header it took me not even 2 minutes to get that bolt off. The stock bolts are made of copper. Really soft so really easy to splice open with a wood cisor. Just make sure you don't damage the stud thread.
What do you mean splice open?

Fox
__________________
"Deez"
-DCEvoClub-
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2005, 07:43 AM   #6
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (7)
 
blaze_125's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: QC
Posts: 2,508

Drives: Yellow OZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shingen
What do you mean splice open?

Fox
Cut the nut in half(on the length), then seperate both 1/2 with a flat head screw driver. So you put the wood cisor on the nut, you bang on it till you're almost at the stud thread, then take the flat head and open it. It will come right off, and it will take you a few minutes.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic who worked on my transmission
I'm 63 years old and even I don't have that much play in my shaft
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2005, 11:59 AM   #7
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
joshthegreat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: LasVegas,NV/ Goldsboro,NC
Posts: 122

Drives: 02 Lancer ES, 03 Evo VIII

Send a message via AIM to joshthegreat
i just took off the the blet cover and bent the picec of metal....was easy...no need for cutting it off
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2005, 12:11 PM   #8
EvoM Guru
Personal Sales Rating: (23)
 
Alchemist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 2,202

Drives: Artemis: Lancer A-spec

I'm still confused.....
You used a "wood cisor" to cut through one of the faces of the nut? And then you used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.... right? What's a wood cisor? Is it some kind of chisel?
how do you get a nut on there to keep from getting a leak?


For reference, I used a dremel and sanding cylinders (a LOT of sanding cylinders) to grind away a portion of the aluminum on the AC complressor bracket. use WD40 to lubricate the cylinder to prevent buildup and to reduce heat (which will make the aluminum softer and more prone to building up on the cylinder). now everytime I have to take the header off, I just use the long socket with a swivel to take it off.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 17, 2005, 06:52 PM   #9
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (1)
 
wiretap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,936

Drives: Evo X GSR

Are we talking about the RRM header here..? I am supposed to receive mine early next week. I ordered it from RRM just a few days ago. Looks like I'll be lubing up those bolts extra good before I take them off.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Reagan - Inaugural Address - 1/20/1981
We are a nation that has a government -- not the other way around. And this makes us special among the nations of the Earth. Our government has no power except that granted it by the people. It is time to check and reverse the growth of government, which shows signs of having grown beyond the consent of the governed.
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2005, 08:20 AM   #10
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (7)
 
blaze_125's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: QC
Posts: 2,508

Drives: Yellow OZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by engineerboy
I'm still confused.....
You used a "wood cisor" to cut through one of the faces of the nut? And then you used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.... right? What's a wood cisor? Is it some kind of chisel?
A chisel... that's it.

Quote:
how do you get a nut on there to keep from getting a leak?
Once you install the after-market header, you just slap a brand new nut on it. A steel nut, avoid that copper crap

Quote:
Are we talking about the RRM header here..?
No matter which one you get, you still have to take the stocker out of there.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic who worked on my transmission
I'm 63 years old and even I don't have that much play in my shaft
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 18, 2005, 11:43 PM   #11
Evolving Member
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
frchgl123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 120

Drives: 03 OZ Rally

Remove the timing cover and bend back the thin piece of metal. Easy easy. Plus you can keep your hardware. Funny idea to cut it off!! That dang nut is soo frustrating with the rope trick!! Show that nut, say F**k it and cut it off!! hahaha!!I like that!!
__________________
Green Psycho bored fuel rail <-- highly recommended!!
CAI/Ported 4G94 Intake manifold(DIY)/Buschur downpipe/RRM Header/Axle back/RRM Piggyback/Magnacore wires/ Short throw shifter/Shifter base bushings(DIY)/Front roll stopper filled(DIY)/Front and Back Strut bars/Lower rear tiebar

"hypnotized by everything I can't control,
desensitized by everything that controls me"
-Strung Out
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 19, 2005, 12:05 AM   #12
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (111)
 
Z_Lancer_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,154

Drives: 06 WW EVO IX w/ SSL

Send a message via AIM to Z_Lancer_Man
I started a thread on this very topic and the rope with the wrench worked for me. No cutting, chiseling, grinding, bending, prying anything. Just got the rachet wrench on there, tied a rope to the other end and let physics do the rest. Came off in no time.
__________________
AMS 3" TBE w/ TP |GFB BOV | AMS UICP | Muse LICP | Walbro 255 Fuel Pump | Mini Battery | Amsoil air filter w/ Vibrant MAF adapter | Custom Boost Pill (#58) | Omni Power 4-Bar MAP Sensor | Powerslot Slotted Cryo Rotors | Swift Springs | MIL.SPEC TB Shaft Seals
---
325/310 WHP/TQ (VDR 5.7) - 24 PSI, 91 Pump - Self Tuned w/ECUFlash
---
Previous Lancers
- '09 Lancer GTS (traded 6/19/09)
- '03 Lancer OZ Rally (traded 1/18/09)
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 19, 2005, 10:03 AM   #13
Newbie
Personal Sales Rating: (0)
 
kforkorea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 26

Drives: 03 Mitsubishi Lancer ES

Hey can you explain exactly how to use the rope method? do I get the wrench on the nut than tie a rope to the end of the wrench??
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 19, 2005, 10:07 AM   #14
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (111)
 
Z_Lancer_Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,154

Drives: 06 WW EVO IX w/ SSL

Send a message via AIM to Z_Lancer_Man
Check out this thread. It has a little picture and instructions:

Help! Header Install - How to get to the lower left nut?!
__________________
AMS 3" TBE w/ TP |GFB BOV | AMS UICP | Muse LICP | Walbro 255 Fuel Pump | Mini Battery | Amsoil air filter w/ Vibrant MAF adapter | Custom Boost Pill (#58) | Omni Power 4-Bar MAP Sensor | Powerslot Slotted Cryo Rotors | Swift Springs | MIL.SPEC TB Shaft Seals
---
325/310 WHP/TQ (VDR 5.7) - 24 PSI, 91 Pump - Self Tuned w/ECUFlash
---
Previous Lancers
- '09 Lancer GTS (traded 6/19/09)
- '03 Lancer OZ Rally (traded 1/18/09)
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 19, 2005, 12:30 PM   #15
Evolved Member
Personal Sales Rating: (7)
 
blaze_125's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: QC
Posts: 2,508

Drives: Yellow OZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by frchgl123
Show that nut, say F**k it and cut it off!! hahaha!!I like that!!
After a few Stock header removal... hell yeah Not even 5 minutes and you're done
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechanic who worked on my transmission
I'm 63 years old and even I don't have that much play in my shaft
Offline
 
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.2.0