Homemade Short Shifter?
Oct 27, 2005, 10:36 PM
#16
The distance from the pivot point to the shift linkage is pretty much set, dictated by a large (about 9"x6") nylon enclosure that bolts shut with a hinge and 4 10mm bolts. So if you're just designing a piece of metal for this thing, you're limited to what is ABOVE the pivot point, while the part below is pretty much fixed. Sorry.
Oct 27, 2005, 10:38 PM
#17
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what if you curve the metal? that keeps the pieces in the same place but allows you to move the pivot point?
Anyways if you get one place them side by side and take a pic
Anyways if you get one place them side by side and take a pic
Oct 27, 2005, 10:41 PM
#18
Well, even if it was curved the distance between the two points remains the same. Curves with 1 pivot point act as it they are straight. HOWEVER, I am sure the curves on the part ABOVE the pivot can affect the shifting in some way. Not sure how, though.
But believe me, I looked into all of these possibilities when trying to justify buying an aluminum stick for $150, and found out it just isn't as complicated as people make it out to be.
But believe me, I looked into all of these possibilities when trying to justify buying an aluminum stick for $150, and found out it just isn't as complicated as people make it out to be.
Oct 27, 2005, 10:42 PM
#19
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well its okay i bought mine, underhood and base bushings for 99$, even if it is just a shorter stick...
o yeah there are 2 b&ms by the way... one requires you to cut into your housing i hope that one does something a lil more then just change the top part
o yeah there are 2 b&ms by the way... one requires you to cut into your housing i hope that one does something a lil more then just change the top part
Oct 27, 2005, 10:52 PM
#20
Yeah, I think that one does more, which probably does alter the pivot point because it alters the housing. But your $90 "stick" is still a good choice because it is angled and weighted to feel correct. Not sure how much the ebay sticks researched on that. if it's not weighted right, expect a lot of missed shifts. Which, btw, is a good reason to use the knob it came with if applicable.
Oct 28, 2005, 11:27 AM
#21
Originally Posted by urbanknight
The distance from the pivot point to the shift linkage is pretty much set, dictated by a large (about 9"x6") nylon enclosure that bolts shut with a hinge and 4 10mm bolts. So if you're just designing a piece of metal for this thing, you're limited to what is ABOVE the pivot point, while the part below is pretty much fixed. Sorry.
As you can see on the image, with a longer bottom part the linkage travels further.
If you look at this link... you'll see that should be the **** you're looking for. B&M gets you to cut part of the assy since the lower arm is longer and needs clearance.
https://www.evolutionm.net/features/...mfeatures/42/2
Last edited by blaze_125; Oct 28, 2005 at 11:36 AM.
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