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Old Sep 11, 2009, 04:11 PM   #1
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idle issue

this has been going on for quite some time. I was hoping that someone here may be able to point me in the right direction. my oz is idling very low and it bounces from approx 700 down to 400rpms while sitting at lights or in traffic. it makes a bit of a clicking sound when the idle gets to the lowest point before coming back up this sound seems to be coming from somewhere around the throttle body . other than this idle problem the car runs great it doesn't bog down or anything no CEL or anything like that. I have checked for vacuum leaks and have not found anything. if you guys could point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it
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this is what I have so far:

aem intake
RRM intake manifold
RRM throttle body
RRM high flow fuel rail
RRM header
greddy evo 2 exhaust
magnacor plugwires
light weight underdrive pully
SAFC2
tein stech springs
RMR strut braces front and rear upper and lower
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 06:59 PM   #2
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I suggest getting 2 things, first is MAF cleaner its an aerosol can even walmart sells it, and second air intake and throttle body cleaner I would start there my car did the same exact thing and just those 2 things fixed it right up
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 07:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03lances View Post
I suggest getting 2 things, first is MAF cleaner its an aerosol can even walmart sells it, and second air intake and throttle body cleaner I would start there my car did the same exact thing and just those 2 things fixed it right up
the cleaners you can get at almost any auto parts store. we have both of them where i work at.

crc MAF cleaner part no:
05110

as for the other one i cant remember the part number


josh
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 08:28 PM   #4
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the throttle body have less than 30,000miles on it so I don't think that is the issue.... but I will try the maf cleaner I actually didn't even know they made such a thing. thanks for the info guys
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speed kills live forever drive a honda

YOU"VE GOTTA PAY TO PLAY
this is what I have so far:

aem intake
RRM intake manifold
RRM throttle body
RRM high flow fuel rail
RRM header
greddy evo 2 exhaust
magnacor plugwires
light weight underdrive pully
SAFC2
tein stech springs
RMR strut braces front and rear upper and lower
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 09:18 PM   #5
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Doesnt really matter the mileage the throttle body can be dirty after 10k I would get it just to check one less cause off but obviously all at your discretion
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 09:27 PM   #6
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sounds like a vaccum leak somewhere.
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 06:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geardog75 View Post
sounds like a vaccum leak somewhere.

I have checked every vacuum line and can't find a leak... that was my first thought
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speed kills live forever drive a honda

YOU"VE GOTTA PAY TO PLAY
this is what I have so far:

aem intake
RRM intake manifold
RRM throttle body
RRM high flow fuel rail
RRM header
greddy evo 2 exhaust
magnacor plugwires
light weight underdrive pully
SAFC2
tein stech springs
RMR strut braces front and rear upper and lower
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 08:06 AM   #8
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what do you actually spray with the maf cleaner?
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speed kills live forever drive a honda

YOU"VE GOTTA PAY TO PLAY
this is what I have so far:

aem intake
RRM intake manifold
RRM throttle body
RRM high flow fuel rail
RRM header
greddy evo 2 exhaust
magnacor plugwires
light weight underdrive pully
SAFC2
tein stech springs
RMR strut braces front and rear upper and lower
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 09:29 AM   #9
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here is a quick video of what it sounds like... not great quality but it will give you an idea of what its doing
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speed kills live forever drive a honda

YOU"VE GOTTA PAY TO PLAY
this is what I have so far:

aem intake
RRM intake manifold
RRM throttle body
RRM high flow fuel rail
RRM header
greddy evo 2 exhaust
magnacor plugwires
light weight underdrive pully
SAFC2
tein stech springs
RMR strut braces front and rear upper and lower
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 11:57 AM   #10
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I would recommend resetting your ECU by removing the negative cable off of the battery for 30min. After hooking the cable back up, start the car and let it idle for 20-25min to let the ECU relearn its idle. Then drive the car easy for the next 100 miles to let it learn the rest of its settings. If this doesn't solve the issue I would maybe look at a bad coil(s), bad idle control motor or maybe your RRM throttle body BISS screw was improperly adjusted if it was on a previous Lancer.

Does your car have any sputtering or misfire like issues under light or heavy acceleration at any RPM?
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 01:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senate6268 View Post
I would recommend resetting your ECU by removing the negative cable off of the battery for 30min. After hooking the cable back up, start the car and let it idle for 20-25min to let the ECU relearn its idle. Then drive the car easy for the next 100 miles to let it learn the rest of its settings. If this doesn't solve the issue I would maybe look at a bad coil(s), bad idle control motor or maybe your RRM throttle body BISS screw was improperly adjusted if it was on a previous Lancer.

Does your car have any sputtering or misfire like issues under light or heavy acceleration at any RPM?
I will try resetting the ecu again just for good measure. there is no sputtering or misfire issues under heavy or light acceleration or any RPM, no check engine light.
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speed kills live forever drive a honda

YOU"VE GOTTA PAY TO PLAY
this is what I have so far:

aem intake
RRM intake manifold
RRM throttle body
RRM high flow fuel rail
RRM header
greddy evo 2 exhaust
magnacor plugwires
light weight underdrive pully
SAFC2
tein stech springs
RMR strut braces front and rear upper and lower
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 04:41 PM   #12
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Similar idle issue happened to me as well at around 30000km. The engine rpm will fluctuate frequently upon idle sometime feeling it will almost stall. I dumped a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank after filling up and after that tank of gas it idles fine again.
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 04:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozdriver View Post
I will try resetting the ecu again just for good measure. there is no sputtering or misfire issues under heavy or light acceleration or any RPM, no check engine light.
If you reset your ECU, but don't let it properly learn its idle for 20-30 minutes before driving it will have idle issues. How many miles do you have?
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 05:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senate6268 View Post
If you reset your ECU, but don't let it properly learn its idle for 20-30 minutes before driving it will have idle issues. How many miles do you have?
I have just over 80,000 miles. I understand that you need to let the car idle for it to "learn"

I have cleaned my MAF reset my ECU and let the car idle for 30mins and it is idling steady now at 500rpms I adjusted the BISS so it is idling at just under 1000rpms and the car seems to be good now.... keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't come back
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2318796

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speed kills live forever drive a honda

YOU"VE GOTTA PAY TO PLAY
this is what I have so far:

aem intake
RRM intake manifold
RRM throttle body
RRM high flow fuel rail
RRM header
greddy evo 2 exhaust
magnacor plugwires
light weight underdrive pully
SAFC2
tein stech springs
RMR strut braces front and rear upper and lower
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 05:25 PM   #15
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My car used to do that and it was the Egr valve .
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