need help with timing belt

bowlofturtle · Jul 6, 2009, 03:22 PM

I need to do one on a 03 lancer.

I've been searching for a DIY and no luck. Anyone have one for this?

Are there any tips and tricks to doing this?

estimated time it would take?

Dealership is asking for $350 but i think thats just the belt and not the water pump.

it looks rather simple, remove serp belts, pass wheel, upper/lower belt covers, not sure if i need to do the mount.

What i dont understand is the lower flange on the crankshaft sprocket. "Install the flange as shown in the illustration." but it never said anything prior to it about removal. And as for the crank pulley removal, i dont have that tool but in the past i've been able to impact them off on other cars, but installing them i just dont know how to go at it. I dont want to just impact it on

senate6268 · Jul 6, 2009, 05:15 PM

Here's an exploded diagram from the FSM:

bowlofturtle · Jul 6, 2009, 06:50 PM

how long would this job on average take?

depsy · Jul 6, 2009, 08:29 PM

i did it myself and took at least 6 hrs or so, it was a big hassle and unless u have skills already then for 350 thats not bad

bowlofturtle · Jul 7, 2009, 03:24 AM

6 hours is good. im decent with a wrench, timing belts are exactly my strong point but i've done some jetta DOHC ones, book time was 4.5 hours and i made away with 7 hours.

did you run into any issues? i just want to plan for issues and problems. looking at this right now, the crank pulley is either going to be a pain to take off or a breeze. The tensioner doesn't look like any issues. I think i just need clearance.

mcgarvey · Jul 7, 2009, 06:28 AM

It's all straightforward. Yes the motor mount has to come out, along with its bracket, the PS pump, and the alternator (swing it out of the way). I did mine in 3 hours (I work on cars for a living on flat rate so I've learned to be quick) but give yourself the whole day and take your time. The factory water pump is sealed to the block with silicone RTV but an aftermarket unit will use a paper gasket. If you use the paper gasket I recommend coating it with Hylomar or something similar.

The timing marks are very obvious, there's really no chance of confusion. Let the tensioner do its job, dont try to tighten the belt by hand. If you've done timing belts before you should be fine.

Oh yea the crank bolt is on there pretty tight- It took about 15 seconds of hammering on it with 120psi to my IR titanium impact. Make sure you put it back on tight too or the crank sensor trigger wheel won't give a clean signal to the ECU. You'll see what I mean when you get in there.

And yes, this is definitely an interference engine, so don't screw it up!

bowlofturtle · Jul 7, 2009, 05:20 PM

i have the same IR 2135ti as you.

I've done belts before but it was with the automatic tensioners. where i have to whine up the tensioner to a certain point and then tigthen so it will readjust itself. I haven't done a belt in about 2 years.

my choices are OEM or Gates product. I'm not sure which way to run. Do i need the tensioner?

local dealer/ OEM - belt is $65, serp belts are $35 each, water pump is $212 and tensioner is $99.

rockauto.com selling Gates everything - belt $30 , tensioner $28, water pump $60

Online OEM - 113 pump, 45 tensioner, 50 timing belt.

obviously its more or less between rock auto and online OEM. clearly its a big diffrence in $$$ but i dont know which way to go with. Rockauto has a lot of other brands but i trust the Gates brand as they do make really good belts. Not needing the tensioner can save me a bundle.

for the crank pulley, is it a guided tooth or something to line up first and then tighten? I'm putting aside the WHOLE day to do it, might line up someone from here that has experience to help me out.

as long as everything is straight forward like, remove motor mount bracket, remove this and that. it should be all good. no tricky hard to reach bolts or silly things. I looked in the engine bay today and looks like decent amount of space.

03lances · Jul 7, 2009, 07:12 PM

Just for a heads up a little trick I do when changing timing belts. Take either a grease pen or something white, place a mark on the cam gear and the belt then do the same on the crank timing gear and belt then transfer the marks to your new belt MAKING SURE you get the marks on the exact tooth, make sure you check this about 3 times before putting the new belt on making sure again you have the marks all lined up, it saves a tremendous amount of time cause once it is on you know for sure its on right I do this everytime I change one. I can usually do a SOHC engine in 2-3 hours beginning to end.

bowlofturtle · Jul 8, 2009, 12:23 PM

thanks for the tip. I'm most likely going to do this job.

Just need to find the brand of parts.

I'm leaning towards Gates from rockauto all 3 would be about $105 or BECK/ARNLEY will bring all 3 to about $ 150

I'm not going with OEM on this.

mcgarvey · Jul 8, 2009, 03:26 PM

Gates IS the OEM for most belts on cars. Get the Gates belt and water pump. No need to get a tensioner, they rarely if ever go bad. When I worked at Mitsu, I never, and I mean not one time, saw a tensioner pulley bearing wear out. When you're up around 200-250k miles maybe then think about changing it, but otherwise leave it alone. Also check the oil seals while you're in there.

bowlofturtle · Jul 8, 2009, 04:15 PM

which seal? the one in the lower cover or are there internal ones that i can see. i'm going to clean the crank or cam sensor that everyone mentioned in the other thread.

I need to do a valve cover gasket but i'm doing that later. i'm only focusing on whats exposed during the timing belt. So water pump, t-belt and both serp belts. If rockauto doesn't give me a paper gasket for the pump, i'll just pick one up at autozone for $2-5.

I'm doing other stuff later like t-stat, valve cover gasket, PCV, and the rest of the 60k. Its not my car i'm not supplying the $$. i'm trying to make it cheapest as of now for my gf.

mcgarvey · Jul 8, 2009, 06:34 PM

The camshaft and crankshaft seals under the timing belt.

03lances · Jul 8, 2009, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgarvey

No need to get a tensioner, they rarely if ever go bad. When I worked at Mitsu, I never, and I mean not one time, saw a tensioner pulley bearing wear out. When you're up around 200-250k miles maybe then think about changing it, but otherwise leave it alone. Also check the oil seals while you're in there.

+1^ when I worked as a mechanic I never seen this either, if anything broke it was the tensioner bolt due to inexperienced people over or under tightening it

bowlofturtle · Jul 19, 2009, 07:14 PM

thats good to hear, makes things a lot cheaper for the GF. We together are low on funds.

So belt and water pump. Gallon of coolant. 2 new serp belts and we should be rocking and rolling. I just did the theromstat today.

bowlofturtle · Aug 7, 2009, 05:32 AM

ok just ordered the parts today.

Gates everything. water pump, timing belt and both serp belts.

If i need a gasket for the pump i'll run to autozone for $5.00

should be ready for the install next week.

does anyone have a FULL FSM they can send me, i got bits and peices from a fellow member but its still lacking certain areas.