Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

I want this to be a resource for any incoming turbo guys. To me the build was quite fun and I feel anyone with decent mechanical know how can complete the build with a little guidance. I’m pretty much doing this to create a little conversation on creating a quick and most effective way to complete this build. The custom 16g route is the easiest and cost effective means to turboing your Lancer. The parts are relatively easy to gather with perhaps the manifold and oil lines being the hardest to find. You can expect to make around 10 extra HP per pound of boost and shoot for around 200ish HP and torque. As a general rule of safety you’re going to want to stay under 200 torque to keep from snapping a rod or two. Fortunately there haven’t been many engine failures among the group here and upon a little further digging the ones that have were from other things.

What I like about this setup:

• Half of everything is OEM so it pretty much fits and bolts up to look stockish.
  
• It's quiet (Unless you put in that Walboro)
  
• Spools quickly
  
• Parts are easily sourced

What I don't like about this setup:

• Man, does this put stress on the overall system
  
• Your motor mounts will go (If they haven't already)
  
• Since we're water cooling the turbo get ready for an extra heat load. Temps may rise if you're in a warm area.
  
• Other stuff will break at the worst times.
  
• It can be difficult to source a manifold
  
• It is a must to grind off that nub on the turbo.

There are many build threads here but majority of the people went the same way or have done things similar. Pretty much these methods have been tried and true and just work. Some things you will have to keep in mind are the two models of Lancer between the 02-03 body styles and the 04-06 models. For one the 02-03 use a return less fuel system. Not a big problem, it just means you won’t have a vacuum point on the FPR. You can just tap into the U shaped hose in the middle of the intake manifold. Second thing is a real problem if you’re a 04-06 body style and have a manual transmission.

These guys have and external clutch slave while the 02-03’s have an internal slave. The problem is if you use the Speed Corps Manifold or even possibly a redrilled Megan manifold the slave is blocking the way of your intake pipe. Now this is going to take some creative thinking or a work around to solve. One way to combat this is to go straight to speed density during your install and have no filter on the turbo or a VERY small filter. The second way is to get creative. Rumor has it that a KIA slave will work by extending the clutch line a bit. This gives the intake tube just enough room to fit and your clutch to still work. The third issue is getting the right manifold. Either a Speed Corps or Evo manifold will work but if you can’t find a Speed Corps manifold you’ll have to go with a Megan. *New info get in touch with the guy on here called beautifulpunk or look up motorsports engineering he can make you a custom manifold for a good price*

The problem with that is you’re going to have to cut off the Evo flange weld on the Lancer flange and clean out the runners so they’re smooth. Sounds like an endeavor. Another issue is that some 06’s may be having problems pulling or flashing their new maps to their ECU. I can’t say that its consistent put there are a few issues that I’ve been seeing. It’s solvable and not a big build stopping problem. Just be aware that you MAY run into this issue. Finally depending on what intercooler you use you may end up having to take off your front crash bar. If this is not a problem with you go ahead with the Evo Intercooler. If it is, look at the small Mishimoto intercooler. I can’t vouch for the fitment with the intercooler pipes. Also with the intake if you don’t relocate your battery no matter what model car you have your new intake location is going to meet your battery. This is solved by getting a metal bend that makes your filter point towards the driver’s seat or bends down toward the wheel well possibly.

Do not even buy the first part if you haven't been doing your regular car maintenance, timing Belt and water pump at least! Also Look into replacing your fan control module, because lets face it. Your's has gone out and you just dont know it or is about to. And if you're an Auto, your input speed sensor.

Why are you buying all these extra parts when your car NEEDS these things done to it?

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

Parts list
Now we all know before you buy your first part you should be aware of the plunge that you’re getting yourself into. That means having read a few build threads to see what others had to do and what other issues may have popped up. But essentially here is what you need….

Speed Corps or Evo Megan Manifold $250
Evo 8 or 9 turbo $150-$250
Evo Down pipe $60-$80
Evo 8 or 9 J pipe $20-$30 (Make sure if you have an 8 turbo get and 8 pipe and 9 turbo with 9 pipe or your pipes wont reach)
Evo 8 or 9 intercooler $100
Evo 8 or 9 upper and lower intercooler pipes $40-$60
Forge waste gate $165 And to clear something up as far as the waste gate goes you can use a stock Evo one. It's actually a 12 psi Wastegate. Its a boost pill that raises an evos boost pressure to 20+psi. I an running one preloaded and its capping at 9 psi.
O2 dump $30-$70
Oil feed $40
Oil return $35Oil return $35 (For your weld or tap options)
Oil return flange -10an $15
Oil return-turbo bolts $5
Banjo bolt feed (Both parts) $20
Crush copper washers for oil feed $2
Evo 9 diverter valve $60-$80
Evo 8 or 9 intake $25
Evo 8 or 9 diverter air resurculating tube $5-$10
Doughnut gasket for down pipe $20
Spring bolts $15
Boost gauge $70
Exhaust temp gauge $100
Air fuel gauge $250
Gauge mounts $70-$100 either pillar or dash
EvoScan $25
Tactrix cable $137
Exhaust extension $30-$50
NGK BKR5E spark plugs x4 $10
Slim fan $30 (Autos need 2)
Slim heater hose for diverter valve, coolant, and other vacuum points $15
Various hose clamps $35

Various resources
Oil
Some coolant
Anti seize
PB Blaster
Boot grease
Solder

Oil pan options
Going to weld your oil pan for a secure fitting? $10 for the fitting and whatever you’re going to pay your welder, $15 for the ¾ drill bit and about $35 oil return to make your return fitting.

Going to take the more simple drill and tap for your oil pan and use heater hose? About $5 in heater hose, $30 in taps, $15 for the ¾ drill bit, about $15 for Evo oil return that you’re going to have to cut and $5 for the return fitting


Total cost
$1841-$2092 not including shipping of these products
Obviously if you shop around and get lower deals from members here you’ll come out lower than these numbers so take your time when looking.

Going straight to 10 PSI? Well It's suggested that you do these things but you can get away with just injectors.
ARP head studs $120 pn 2034204
Subaru WRX injectors $100 Note Per: JRR Make sure the injectors are from 02-06 because the wrx went to a 2.5l engine over the 2.0 they used until 06, thus in turn went to a different injector. still a top feed but went to a 565 instead of the 440's in the 02-06 models and also light blue in color. the 565's are a dark blue and also if a light blue is uncapped they are an 880 So in short the light blue ones...
Walboro 255 fuel pump $150

Get ready to potentially buy in the future

New clutch (If you're a manual you really need to do this before the build)
Larger Radiator (Dual core Evo one will work fine)
Transmission cooler if you're an auto and upgrade the intercooler
Motor mounts

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

If you’re going to do this in a weekend you would want to do some prep work leading up to your build. This would include taking off your bumper to mount your intercooler and lower pipes, having your oil pan tapped, gauges ran and powered, and everything else put together. That saves a lot of time just for a little thinking ahead. Lets start with your prep work first.

Removing the bumper
There are about 3 bolt points around the wheel well, 4 bumper clips under the grill, and finally 2 bumper straps underneath the car near the radiator. (You MAY want to remove your headlights also to make it pull off easier) After you remove the bumper Time to mount your intercooler and route your pipes. Due to the Evo and Lancer sharing SIMILAR bodies the lower bolt holes for the intercooler are right there in the body. So bolt that in place and to top bolt hole I just worm clamped that to the piece of metal closest to it. As far as the intercooler pipes surprise! The bolt holes are there for those also. So clamp the couplers to the intercooler and fasten the intercooler pipes to the body. Or not. Wont really matter...

Upper bumper tabs


Under the car bumper clips


Prepping the pan
This is a little more free because there are a few ways to go about it. Either weld on a fitting or tapping it. Either way that pan is coming off. First there are about 12-16 bolts of varying sizes holding that thing on. Once you take those out now its time to pry it off. There is a notch between the oil pan and the transmission. Take a flat head or small crow bar and apply some force to start to pry it loose. Don’t try to poke between the block and pan. That wouldn’t be a good look. Now that the pan is loose maneuver it so it slips out toward the passenger side of the car. No need to drop the cross member. If there is any goop on the oil filter carefully get it off. Now that the oil pan is in your hands get your ¾ drill bit and drill near the second to right most bolt hole on the front. Make sure you have enough space for you to insert that bolt back in and also be able to secure your oil return. If you’re welding, weld your fitting on. If you’re tapping take your tap and tap it. If you’re doing this as prep plug it with the appropriate cap. Now that’s finished take a razor blade and scrape off the extra rtv from the bottom on the block and on top of the pan. Then take your rtv and put a light coating of it on top of the pan and stick it back to the block. Bolt it back up to the block and you’re done with that.

Welded fitting


This is too much rtv


Gauges
There are many options as far as gauges and locations. I really can’t write too much here since just about every one is different. But for our cars here are a few good tips. There is a power, accessory, and ground source all in one place behind the clock and there is an easily accessible ground on the driver’s side of the cabin between the door and dash assembly. All you have to do is pop off the cover. As far as your exhaust probe you’re going to be tapping into the left runner of your manifold since that cylinder is the furthest away into the manifold and has the higher chance of running lean. Weld the probe on. As a rule of thumb try to solder everything unless you’re using vampire clips.

Grinding the turbo nub
If you dont do this the turbo will rest on your water pipe


So take a grinder to that b!tch

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

On a cool car disconnect your battery, and jack it up. Follow my guide to removing the stock manifold to take it off. Once that’s gone, get under the car and remove the down pipe. It may be rusted to the second cat so you might want to make sure your have something like PB Blaster to help work the bolts loose.

Fans
Remove your stock fans and take out the fan relay with it. Clip the fan harnesses and solder them with your slim fans. Then mount them back to the radiator with the supplied hardware. Store the fan relay somewhere in the engine bay. No one has really found a good place for it. Just zip tie it in a secure location.

Removing the manifold
Follow my guide here



Before you can drop your turbo in you're going to want to bend your dipstick back and to the left a bit. That means towards the passenger and front bumper. So take a small socket on your wrench place it over the tube and pull/push it out of the way. Next, before you drop it in install and tighten the rubber water lines on the turbo side. DO THIS! Once that turbo is mounted there is no space to tighten these hoses. Now, turbo time. When you go to mount the turbo you’re going to want to do it in one big piece. So that means turbo to the manifold, with the O2 housing on, waste gate attached and clipped, J-Pipe on, oil return attached, vacuum hoses from waste gate to j pipe, Banjo bolts secured. Keep in mind the lower AC hose is going to be in the way. Before you drop the turbo in take a pair of pliers and try to bend it down and towards the driver’s side so you have clearance. Also my Speed corps manifold’s bolt holes were a little misaligned so I had to just open them up a bit. Now maneuver the turbo assembly into the engine bay and bolt it back up.

Hooking up coolant lines
For this we’re just going to use our existing system. Take about 1 and ½ feet of your heater hose and route it from the turbo to the intake manifold intake side. There are two coolant lines going into and from the manifold. Take one hose and attach it to the manifold then take your other hose and attach it to the block return. Simple. Just keep in mind when you remove the hoses some coolant will come out. Just be ready.

Connecting Intercooler pipes, intake, vacuums and, diverter valve
The intercooler pipes are pretty straight forward. If you’re having trouble connecting the hard pipes to the soft pipes a little soapy water will do the trick. Make sure when you go to do your clamps make sure you save yourself the trouble and have them all facing an easily accessible direction incase you ever have one blow off or something. Trust me; there is nothing worse than trying to turn a socket in the dark at an awkward angle. For the hard pipe closest to the intake manifold people usually have the diverter valve hole pointing to the left. This may be different from you depending on how you route your intake with the battery. Just follow the curve of the pipes and you won’t have any issues. Your intake pipe is just clamped on to the turbo with the larger end bending up. There should be two vacuum points coming off of it. Those two points you can just rubber cap and zip tie them off or use one to connect it to a catch can and run it to your crank case or just simply fill them with a little bit of epoxy. It’s up to you. As far as the diverter valve, the end closest to the gold colored cap connects to the intake side and the diverter hose wraps around the upper coolant pipe like its holding it arm to arm. Now here is where your coolant overflow bottle may not fit anymore. Some have zip tied it to another location some are using an OEM Evo bottle. I like the look of the Evo bottle but do what you can to make it work. Finally the vacuum points. The diverter valve nipple needs to be hooked to a source. You can either run a line to the Fuel pressure regulator or use the U-shaped source in the middle of the IM. If you’re on 04-06 you’re only choice is the U-shaped source. Others have gotten a vacuum box and mounted that to their fire wall to make things look a lot cleaner. For your boost gauge use the same location.


Arm in arm hoses


Hooking up oil lines
Depending on what method you chose to return your oil either screw on your oil return or clamp it on to the pan. For feed you need a or use an oil sandwich adapter to get your oil line attached.

For your feed I'm pretty sure you need a 4an line. Female both ends, with one end having a 90 degree bend. This picture below and the picture above should give you how the line points up and how the banjo bolt sits. Id put on the hose end connecting to the turbo before mounting the whole turbo unit to your block. Easier that way. Don't forget your copper crush washers on the banjo bolt!


For your oil return. 10an. Make your own out of Stainless steel braided hose or whatever. Not hard. Another pic further below.


Swapping your spark plugs
Easy stuff just pull your old ones out and before you put your new ones in just make sure they’re gapped to .25. Drop them back in and they are good to go. But, to do those right, dab them with a little anti seize and the boots should get some boot grease. Tighten them up then a quarter turn loose.

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

Mounting down pipe
Drop down to under the car and drop the doughnut gasket onto the down pipe. Line it up with the O2 dump and tighten it with the spring bolts. Now mount the end of the down pipe where the stocker was hanging and hopefully you won’t have to struggle to get off a rusted cat and O2 sensor. Once the old hardware is off you’re going to want to make your new mid pipe and least out of 2 ¼ inch pipe hopefully to match you cat back.

How the down pipe sits


Mid pipe and O2 running
The over all mid pipe is going to be around 5-7 inches but make sure you measure and have everything lined up. Unless you already had a test pipe to hack up you’re probably going to have to drive down to an exhaust shop after the install for them to make you a flanged pipe. Also make sure you take out your old O2 sensor to place your wide band one or drill a new whole and weld the bung for it. Now that we are on topic of O2 sensor lets get that ran. Remove the center console to get to the left side of the bolts holding the passenger seat. Take out your passenger seat and there is a rubber plug under where the seat used to be. You can just pop it out with your finger. If you’re going to remove the stock rear O2 do it now from under the car. Once you’re ready run your new O2 sensor down through where the hole was plugged and to your mid pipe. Screw it in and that’s done.

Where the rubber grommet should be




About where the O2 sensor should come out


Hanging the rear end of down pipe



Priming your oil feed
Not hard. Just pull the spark caps on either side and stick a plastic bag or cup on the end of the oil feed. Crank until you get gold. When you see it just connect to the turbo.

Flashing your car
I’m not going to get into this but Ill show you where to look for help and other things of note.

Check off list
Oil back in the car?
Oil feed attached both places?
Oil return attached both places?
Coolant lines to/from turbo secure?
Battery reconnected?
Fans reconnected?
START IT UP!
Anything dripping?
Let it idle for 15 minutes.
You’re good to go!

ryancb

iTrader: (11)

Awesome man, i skim'd this but if didn't say I would suggest drain the raid and get it out of the way. Not worth an oops installing the turbo or manifold.

slatermvp

iTrader: (13)

who carries the spark plugs, cuz autozone doesn't. If they do can someone get the part number on there. I have been using some NGK platinums since I haven't been able to find the spark plugs above.

Great write up Green Bandit!!!!

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

Ive had to go to Carquest and O'reilly's. Ive run into Advance auto and Autozone not carrying them also.

ryancb

iTrader: (11)

amazon.com for the lazy bkr7e (bkr7e-11 are same just gapped diff)

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Just want a correction here 02-03 use a return line its latter models and that returnless . Nice write up though bro

*02Lancer*

iTrader: (3)

^ he beat me to it. I skimmed it also looks good but I would also move the radiator cause yah I did it with mine in and got lucky then I installed my mini and when I was removind something idk what It just barly tapped the rad. In just the right spot and bluhh leak.

frocker93

anything different for an automatic? im only gonna run 6-8 psi to begin with but i know that my transmission housing gets in the way of things like cold air intakes. and would i need an upgraded fuel pump and injectors for 8 psi?

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

No sir. Auto tranny will not get in the way. Fuel pump is a nice back up but shouldn't be needed. As far as injectors go 8 psi if I recall would have you around 80ish idc and they're close to being over worked.

frocker93

And Does the original cat work or do I need to modify a test pipe for it to fit?

Green_Bandit

iTrader: (25)

In case I was not clear enough, the stock cat is 1 too long to work with the evo down pipe and the rest of the exhaust and 2 the flange of the stock cat is rotated differently than the evo pipe. You're going to have to get one fabbed. By an exhaust shop...