evolutionm.net - 09+ Ralliart Engine/Turbo/Drivetrain

GReddy Intercooler Upgrade

NFSLancerRA — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:04:30 GMT

Well, I was just looking around the net for parts for my RA, and I found this on AutoCityImports.

http://autocityimports.com/2009-mits...iv-p-8403.html

I realize that there isn't a significant size difference over stock, but the design of the GReddy IC looks a little bit better than that of the stock IC. Plus, I am a little warey of replacing my stock IC with the much larger EVO X IC without replacing the turbo (which is not going to happen until the warranty is up). In fact, I don't plan to go much past an Injen CAI, HKS Legamax exhaust, and GReddy IC (I am considering buying the Injen UICP as well) until that time anyways.

Any thoughts? Beyond basic construction and design, I have no clue what makes an intercooler superior to another. I realize that SA is very important as well as the shape an size of the inlet and outlets. Other than that, I guess that I am basically asking: would I be wasting my money (assuming that the goal is a cooler intake charge without pressure loss) by buying that aftermarket intercooler?

noticeable grinding/harsh whirring sound in second gear

andify — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:39:49 GMT

hey guys,

as the title says, theres a very noticeable harsh whirring/grinding sound when i drive at very low speeds (<25km/h) in second gear. its noticeable enough that there's feedback through the wheel. Has this happened for any one else?

This occurs after the cars warmed up. The sound also occurred two times on sixth gear around cruising speed (60km/h).

the cars done almost 3000kms, with a gentle break in until 1000kms. the car was built in september 09. after breaking in, the cars been driven hard but never WOT.

cheers everyone =)

THE Complete Evo X turbo swap parts list!

EricJ@AMS — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:00:39 GMT

This is the list of everything needed to swap an Evo X turbo onto a Ralliart. If its not listed, the Ralliart has the same part # and can be reused on the new turbo setup. This list should be comprehensive and complete. Its even broken down into required and recommended pieces. {thumbup} Prices are list prices from Mitsubishi.

Required (a complete turbo assembly off an X should include all of this):

1515A183 (1515A198) Turbocharger 2,022.79
1555A476 Exhaust manifold 514.82
MN119784 Exhaust stud x2 (these will not come out of your Ralliart turbo without breaking) 9.73 x2
1515A150 Turbo Outlet pipe 62.20
1515A184 Turbo to manifold gasket 44.10
1555A289 Turbo to 02 housing gasket 40.37
1555A423 O2 housing 171.77
1225A181 Oil return line 75.97
1310A469 Coolant return pipe 12.10
1310A577 Coolant feed pipe 25.20
MF650114 coolant banjo bolt x2 7.37 x2
MF660065 coolant banjo bolt gasket x4 0.95 x4
1542A042 Inlet elbow 61.08
1515A053 Inlet elbow gasket 10.10

3078.50 total list.
1055.71 without new OEM turbo

Recommended but not required to work:
1555A320 O2 housing bracket 19.08
MD194403 Oil return line gasket 1.53
1515A166 Compressor housing bracket 19.08
MF140264 Compressor housing bracket bolt 2.23
MF140260 Compressor housing bracket bolt 1.30
MR281085 Turbo outlet pipe gasket (same as Ralliart but new ones are recommended) 4.65

47.87 total list.

Approved oils for ralliart oil change?

ralliartblitz — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:29:41 GMT

Does anybody know which oils are warranty approved for the Ralliart?

Is there a list somewhere or a specification they must meet?:confused:

Just curious about the 2010 RA's

Methodical4u — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 08:13:17 GMT

The new MR is faster due to I read the programming for the SST... did the RA's get this as well?

Feel stupid asking this... How do I take out the air filter?

Electromechanic — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:54:56 GMT

I looked in the manual, on page 7-14 how to take it out. I took out the air duct, unclasped the metal clasps, then... I can't take it out. I feel like there's one more step. I don't want to force it out lest I break something in my engine.

The manual makes it look so simple but it's not, at least to me. What am I failing to do?

Ralliart 75 mm Throttle Body from Boomba Racing

Boomba Racing — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 04:31:17 GMT

Boomba Racing is proud to present another ground breaking innovation:
Evo X and Ralliart 75 mm Billet Aluminum Throttle Body.

Evo X and Lancer Ralliart 75 mm throttle body is a direct replacement of the factory unit. Boomba 75 mm throttle body does not require any additional tuning after installation. Throttle body comes as a kit including stock manifold adaptor plate and 60 mm hose adaptor, which allows installation with factory intake hoses. The kit also includes 75 mm hose adaptor and all mounting hardware.

The throttle body is designed in such way that it has to use stock TPS and servo motor.

Enlarging the diameter to 75 mm allows the increase of the throttle cross section area by almost 56% over stock throttle body. Replacing the stock throttle body with new Boomba 75 mm throttle body will increase the horse power and greatly improve engine response (even with stock pipes and turbo). Boomba 75 mm throttle body provides limitless possibilities of increasing engine power when combined with larger intake hoses, aftermarket intake manifold and larger turbo.

Optional 75 mm straight through adaptor is available.

Throttle body adaptor bolted to the intake manifold.

Boomba Evo X 75 mm throttle body with TPS installed and ready to be bolted to the intake manifold.

Boomba Evo X 75 mm throttle body installed.

Throttle bodies are CNC machined out of billet aluminum. Parts are available in natural aluminum, red and black anodized finishes.

All parts are manufactured to our legendary high quality standards and backed up by our warranty.

How small is the stock Ralliart turbo?

Fourdoor — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 20:09:47 GMT

In comparison to past mitsubishi turbocharged cars, how small is the stock Ralliart turbo?

3000GT . . . . . . . . . . . . 13g turbo's
1G DSM auto tranny . . . 13b? Something like that.. smaller than 14b
1G DSM 5 speed . . . . . . 14b
2G DSM . . . . . . . . . . . . t25
2003 EVO VIII . . . . . . . TD05HR-16G6-9.8T Big 16G with twin scroll 9.8 exhaust housing
Newer EVO VIII . . . . . . TD05HR-16G6-10.5T Big 16G with twin scroll 10.5 exhaust housing
EVO IX . . . . . . . . . . . . . different compressor housing, otherwise same as VIII
EVO X . . . . . . . . . . . . . TD05H-152G6-12T. Smaller compressor than VIII and IX, but larger exhaust housing than either one.

So, what do we have in the Ralliart, and how does it compare in size to previous generations of mitsubishi turbochargers?

Keith

engine sputtering around 6k rpm

hotshot1 — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 05:57:54 GMT

a have a cat-back exhaust and downpipe on my car and recently added a test pipe and ever since i added a test pipe when i am in 4th gear at WOT around 6k rpm to redline it sounds and feels like it is sputtering and it continues to do it when i get into 5th gear at WOT at around 5k rpm through redline. has anyone else had this problem? i am going to AMS tom to get a base flash i am going to ask them if they know anything about this. :confused:

Burning smells from engine bay?

brads09lancerGT — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 01:25:26 GMT

Hi guys. Well, I got my AWC reflash done 2 weeks ago at my local dealer. Car was running awesome before that. Anyways, the next day on my way home from work, I noticed a really strong burning rubber smell like I just did a massive brake stand, I thought it might be the car in front so I thought nothing of it. Next day same thing and next day so on. So I called my dealer and they said it was probably just leaves or something got into my engine bay and was heating up from the engine. Kept happening so I drove to my dealer(1 hr away) they were running behind(as usual) and only had enough time to take it for a quick drive. They said nothing was wrong and it was probably just debris in the engine bay. My engine bay is spotless and I couldn't find anything in there. So in the last week I've noticed another burning smell like burning plastic but this one isn't as over powering as the other one. Also randomly now when I coast to a stop sign or something my car will feel like I slammed on my brakes, then stomp on the gas then slam the brakes again, all this while my foot is on neither pedal. I don't know whether this has anything to do with them doing something wrong with the AWC flash or what. My car has 6,000km on it and completely stock other then HKS drop-in. Also I drive in normal/auto mode 90% of the time. I would take it to the dealer again but I can only go on Saturdays but they are booked for the next few Sats. Thanks fo any help

Analysis of my dyno runs as compared to my drag strip results.

Fourdoor — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:09:25 GMT

Every dyno is different, the data in this post partains to the AMS dynojet dyno... that dyno only, not any other dynojet, dynapack dyno, mustang dyno or dyno dynamics dynometer.

IF you take the stock dyno results of the AMS shop car of 195.78 wheel HP 213.39 wheel torque compared to the advertised 237 HP and 253 lb/ft of torque of the Ralliart, you come up with a correction factor of 82.61% for crank HP and 84.34% for crank torque. For these rough estimates and for ease of calculation we can use 83% correction factor for both. This assumes that the dyno operators are competent and not fudging the numbers (accuse AMS at your own risk) and that the advertised HP and torque of the car in question are accurate as well (take that one up with Mitsubishi). Just for clarity, let me state that AMS does not provide or endorse this correction factor in any way.... it is derived from the results of a stock RA on their dyno using SAE correction.

Using this correction factor, you take the measured wheel HP and torque values and divide them by 83% to get the estimated crank HP and estimated crank torque. In my case, those numbers are as follows:

SAE corrected figures:

259.61 wheel HP => 312.78 crank HP. Gain over a stock RA 75.78 crank HP
283.66 wheel torque => 341.76 crank torque. Gain over a stock RA 88.76 crank lb/ft of torque.

Hmmmm, where have I seen numbers like that before�. Oh yeah, my estimated HP based on my drag strip runs was 306 by the ET method and 317 by the trap speed method�. I always go by the trap speed method because there is less variation due to driver error than there is in the ET method. So, less than 5 HP difference between the drag strip estimate of crank HP and the Dyno derived estimate of crank HP�. What do you know!

When I made a claim of gaining APPROXIMATLY 71 crank HP I was told repeatedly that there was no possibility of making those kinds of gains on my setup�. Well, that person was correct! It was a 75.78 crank hp gain!

I expect this thread to devolve into a �you can�t estimate crank HP from dyno results� bickering match. I will NOT be participating in the bickering, and would appreciate the mods monitoring the thread and locking it if needed� but please don�t delete it.

Keith

Dyno results at AMS! (broadband needed)

Fourdoor — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 22:57:21 GMT

Hey guys,

Here are the dyno sheets I got from my runs at AMS today. One of the three runs was junked by some phantom knock, but the other two came out fine. I had them print up many different sheets.... so prepare for long load times on this page :)

I will post each sheet as a seperate post... if you quote a post of mine please edit out the link to the dyno sheets so we don't make load times ultra slow on this thread.

Thanks,

Keith

Wow! price jump on T1R pipes

Tappington — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 00:41:16 GMT

500 dollars now.

http://www.typeoneracing.com/catalog...cat=155&page=1

I guess I will be rethinking my T1R purchase.

Edit: Hybridr.com is so much cheaper on those pipes compared to others.

AMS Intake

japan101 — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 00:14:12 GMT

Nevermind I was losing it. Delete Thread Please

Dyno check Next Wednesday!

Fourdoor — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 15:31:36 GMT

Well, looks like I have a week to complete my road tuning of the Ralliart! I just scheduled my 3 pulls with wide band readout at AMS for next Wednesday.

Doing this for two reasons:

1. Cool dyno sheet printout that I can scan and brag about :lol:

2. (real reason) Make sure my A/F readings in my data log are accurate.... I am tweaking the formula in Evoscan making it read approximately what I am getting on my A/F gauge, but this way I will have a print out of three runs on the dyno to compare with the data logs from those 3 runs that I can use to refine my tweak of the formula.

Later,

Keith