http://forums.evolutionm.net en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:26:15 GMT vBulletin 60 http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:forums.evolutionm.net/get/images/misc/rss.jpg http://forums.evolutionm.net http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/458703-my-car-goes-pop-pop-breaking-up.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:32:59 GMT so I have been trying to fine tune the car a bit since the weather change, did a pull from 3rd - 5th in the morning (freeway onramp) and car seemed fine... A lil over boosting, and knock @ 6500 each gear, (took care of that) So on the way home I tried to see if it cured the knock, and my car hit... so I have been trying to fine tune the car a bit since the weather change, did a pull from 3rd - 5th in the morning (freeway onramp) and car seemed fine... A lil over boosting, and knock @ 6500 each gear, (took care of that) So on the way home I tried to see if it cured the knock, and my car hit full boost late, and seemed like it was breaking up during spool up, (first time I have experienced this) and the car popped twice. "pop pop" so I let off of course. Im sitting there going WTF?!? Try it again, it does it again. so I gave up... There was only a 2 count thru the pull, before I let off.

The only thing that I can think of, is that maybe the car wasnt "fully" warmed up, as I had to bounce quicker than anticipated. :confused: I didnt just hop in and go WOT, but wasnt the normal 3-5 mins. or so...

Plugs are stock, somewhat fresh, ~ 2000 mi. and gapped to .023.

Could this be because I didnt let it get warmed up enough, or is there something going on here? Im a lil scared to go WOT now... :helpme:

TIA ]]> Engine/Turbo nonschlont http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/458703-my-car-goes-pop-pop-breaking-up.html http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/457352-low-oil-pressure-idle.html Sun, 08 Nov 2009 02:50:41 GMT Ok did a rebuild on the bottom end new crank acr race bearings, manley rods, ross pistons 9.0:1 compression. New oil pump and complete gasket kit and ams bal. shaft delete kit (race). primed oil and fuel..no problems...car started easy as pie 3 cranks. Ran for a couple of minutes then the oil... Ok did a rebuild on the bottom end new crank acr race bearings, manley rods, ross pistons 9.0:1 compression. New oil pump and complete gasket kit and ams bal. shaft delete kit (race).
primed oil and fuel..no problems...car started easy as pie 3 cranks. Ran for a couple of minutes then the oil light came on..turn it off check oil...low from it filling the system. added oil back to full. started fine ran for a couple of min again then oil light on again. checked oil and its full. check for leaks...none bone dry. start again..idle oil light on...give a little gas goes off at 1300rpm..checked that twice then shut it off..checked for leaks again..bone dry..do not want to start again until I can figure it out. any ideas would be appricated. Oh the oil pressure sender in block is new as well. ]]> Engine/Turbo Murf http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/457352-low-oil-pressure-idle.html http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/457231-headwork.html Sat, 07 Nov 2009 11:29:31 GMT Hi guys
I'm looking at doing alittle headwork in the coming month to my Evo VII
I'm running a TD05HR 18G 10.5 single flapper tubro

So far i have
BC Single spring, titanium retainer
Kelford 272s
Tomei gears

Is there anything esle in the head i should be replacing while its open as my cars on around 110000ks I have already replaced Water pump and timing belts

I wasn't going to pull the head off and get it ported as i don't see much gain but is there anything esle worth doing ]]> Engine/Turbo scottmanevo http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/457231-headwork.html http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/456086-oil-comsuption.html Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:30:53 GMT how many oil should a forged engine consume??? how many oil should a forged engine consume??? ]]> Engine/Turbo kemoly http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/456086-oil-comsuption.html http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/455005-modifying-your-mivec-cam-gear.html Tue, 27 Oct 2009 01:35:05 GMT *_DISCLAIMER: _* Do not do this unless you understand how to set your cams up, clay the motor, and properly implement this in whatever ECU you are using. If you are unable to do any of these things please leave this to professionals. I make no guarantees, warranties, either expressed or implied,... DISCLAIMER: Do not do this unless you understand how to set your cams up, clay the motor, and properly implement this in whatever ECU you are using. If you are unable to do any of these things please leave this to professionals. I make no guarantees, warranties, either expressed or implied, campaign promises, baby kissing, etc. There is always potential for failure even when everything is "planned out" so please keep this mind.


Tech:

Pretty simple actually, you have your MIVEC cam gear here:



You undo the inverted torx (they're not tight) with hopefully the right tool. Or if you are like me a 1/4 6pt got it done in a pinch.

It then looks like this:






The rotor has apex seals which will most likely stay in the housing (see the first 2 pix and you'd see them in the housing) and that fine. It looks like this stock:



Grind it down a touch. The easiest way is to make sure that you take a little at a time and test fit. You end up taking it down to just about the dash between the 1-2.



Thoroughly clean it one last time, install the apex seals (they'll chill but you can knock the springs out if you're not careful), and then reinsert in the housing:



You have successfully added 6* of motion. Degree everything to make sure you installed it correctly, and remember doublechecking is your friend. Its simple to do the math when you know what direction you want to go to make it all line up. There are a few ways to go about it, but the easiest is to go off a tooth and then over advance the cam in your MIVEC map to keep it even (remembering you are tring to achieve 3.5* or so to compensate for the 6mm deck height increase). I am not going to say one way is right or not, nor how I am doing it. If you cant figure it out on your own this is something you do not want to be doing in the first place (reread disclaimer).

Notice the edge of the housing has a lip though. The only way to remove that is is with a table mill. Once that is gone you will open up about another 8*-10* of motion (for a total of 44-46). I have no idea why you might want that much but it is there. You can all thank Grocmax for the math on that one (also dont argue with him, when he says something he isnt guessing).

The reason I did this was to add back the full range of motion since I used a tall deck block with my 2.2l. On the exhaust side I added a cam gear as is common practice but on the MIVEC side I needed to be inventive.

aaron ]]> Engine/Turbo JohnBradley http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/455005-modifying-your-mivec-cam-gear.html http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/454831-oil-pressure-drop-what-dangerous.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 09:01:21 GMT Oil pressure drop-when to act??

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi,
My oil pressure in my IX is dropping from 100psi down the straight to 30 -40psi around a long fast right hander. From what I have read this is common with evo's.
It idles at 20psi.

Is 30 -40 psi enough pressure - at what pressure drop do you do something about it?

Any engine builders/track guys with some advice??

Also, anyone logged oil pressure after fitting the AMS sump or an accusump?

Thanks in advance. ]]> Engine/Turbo godzuki http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/454831-oil-pressure-drop-what-dangerous.html http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/454132-can-i-see-any-performance-gain-fp-red-basic-bolt.html Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:58:37 GMT Can I see any performance gain on FP Red with basic bolt-on ? exhuast, intake/o2 housing, rc1000c Thanks Can I see any performance gain on FP Red with basic bolt-on ?
exhuast, intake/o2 housing, rc1000c

Thanks ]]> Engine/Turbo oxyigen http://forums.evolutionm.net/engine-turbo/454132-can-i-see-any-performance-gain-fp-red-basic-bolt.html