DaveEvo91

iTrader: (4)

I have the Ohlins setup and have messed around a lot with the settings and honestly I'm not super impressed lately. I can still feel a decent amount of body roll and the car lets loose semi quickly. I used to love it, but IDK anymore. I even stiffened the front up 4 or 5 clicks from full stiff and the rear 2 from full stiff. The car still likes to feel like it's "pushing" I have an adjustable Perrin rear sway out back with Perrin endlinks and that's set on medium. Any tips too?

On BFG G force Rivals.

Would the Tein super racing be an upgrade, or downgrade?

Thanks

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

If these are the standard set-up from Ohlins (which is 10/7), the problem is the spring-rates, front to rear. Definitely try the rear swaybar on full stiff. I have no idea why Ohlins thinks we need so much more front spring than rear; my guess is that they designed the system to go with a huge rear bar and the OE front bar. They should come with a warning to that effect.

As to the idea of switching from Ohlins to Teins, let me address this with a rhetorical question: are you also considering switching from an Evo to a Prius?

bstgsr

Well, it would be a downgrade from Ohlins to Tein... Like Iowa said, try adjusting the rear bar to the stiffest setting and set the coilovers to the middle setting. Drive the car around some and adjust settings accordingly.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

The one downside to DFVs is that the adjuster alters compression and rebound in parallel. Much harder to "tune" for balance. Almost wish they were rebound only.

In any event, if the car is on-the-edge and pushing, soften the fronts, set the rear bar to full stiff, and then play with the rear settings (only) for a while. You set the rear to get the car to rotate without being loose, then set the front to turn in without too much push. At least, that's the order that I've always done it.

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

Are you using the standard Ohlins 10/7 spring rates?

- Andrew

cpunlamd

And the Ohlins cost $3500? (shakes head)

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

Spending 10% of the cost of the car on a set of coilovers is not atypical. In many circles, it's a bit low.

If you want a car that's slammed to the ground on $1000 coilovers, get a used Honda (like everyone else).

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

ditto what are the rates.. given that andrew/gtworx is asking, you didnt buy it from them - and that was probably a mistake

cpunlamd

Still extreme IMO. There are other coilovers that will perform equal, if not better than their DFWs for a 1/3rd of that price tag.

STM Tuned

iTrader: (4)

Whose springs are on them?
I have found out the hard way that good coilovers with crappy springs have just destroyed the joy I have in my car.
They're being upgraded right now with a set of custom Swift springs.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

I'm curious to hear about $1200 coilovers that are equal to Ohlins.

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

The problem with the default Ohlins set-up is not the quality of the springs; the problem is the rates. 10 front and 7 rear only works with a huge rear bar.

You need to think in terms of the corner weights and the motion ratios.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

the draw of the ohlins is that not only is the performance very good, but the ride is amazing as well

Iowa999

iTrader: (1)

At the risk of repeating myself (once too often): the key is that they are digressive in bump, unlike, for example, Teins (or 99% of all crap from Asia).

cpunlamd

Just remember where your whole car is from.