How hard to replace studs?

WAM · Nov 3, 2009, 11:31 AM

Front wheel studs on an X. I need to replace a broken one, but maybe I'll put longer ones in if it's not a big deal. Anybody done it?

Force-Fed Performance · Nov 3, 2009, 11:36 AM

GRAVY, pound it ut with a hammer, stick the new one thru and use a air gun to suck it in... JUST MAKE SURE to put a big washer or big nut between the hub and whatever you are tightening it with to keep from damaging the hub

UT_EvoX · Nov 3, 2009, 11:38 AM

Indeed. Also, there should be an open spot on the hub where you can pound the stud out the back without it getting obstructed.

Force-Fed Performance · Nov 3, 2009, 11:42 AM

^ you should have no problem if the follow thepast two posts

WAM · Nov 3, 2009, 11:43 AM

Great. Will the new one stick far enough out I can get a lugnut on it with the wheel in place, or should I maybe try to find a regular hex nut to do the job with the wheel off? Lube the splines or do it dry?

UT_EvoX · Nov 3, 2009, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WAM

Great. Will the new one stick far enough out I can get a lugnut on it with the wheel in place, or should I maybe try to find a regular hex nut to do the job with the wheel off? Lube the splines or do it dry?

I always just use a lug nut and some washers. Any M12x1.5 nut will work as well. I never lube wheel studs, there's really no need to if you always torque your wheels properly. That, and you can break a stud if the threads are lubed and you still torque to 85 lb-ft.

WAM · Nov 3, 2009, 03:10 PM

Thanx guys, project's done. I was a little concerned because the aftermarket studs had a coarser spline than OEM. But I checked with the mechanic types at a couple tire shops and they said no problem. What they talked me into: Anti-seize on splines and thread. Two washers with anti-seize between. And an open lug nut installed backwards to pull it in. And a half-inch impact. No problems at all.

Force-Fed Performance · Nov 3, 2009, 03:11 PM

Good deal