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Oct 12, 2009, 11:51 PM
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#1
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Evolving Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Home
Posts: 165
Drives: 2008 WW X MR: 325tq, 305whp, Rota Grids, Perrin shorty ant., Cobb F+B sway bars, HKS drop-in (3 layer-dry), AMS twin tip catback exhaust, UPIC, HBspeed tune
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side-to-side sway in my MR
The front and rear Cobb sway bars in my car made a big difference in the cornering and side to side sway. However, still when I hit a pump in high speed, or turn my steering wheel to a quick side to side roll, I still have too much sway and during driving at high speeds in an imperfect road, it actually make me feel a bit uneasy in the handling department. Is this tire related (put more air in them, change them out) or spring related (change out to swifts or eibachs pro) or something else?
Thanks
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Oct 13, 2009, 01:53 AM
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#2
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Evolving Member
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 468
Drives: 'MMVIII Evo 10
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Park your evox next to a camry, honda accord, most midsize american cars, and you'll see how damn tall the car is.
probably stiffer lowering springs to go along with the sways if the body roll puts you off. I prefer the compliance of the stock suspension, myself. This is also the reason why i say you'd be crazy to forgo the aluminum roof to get a sunroof on the upscale MR model.
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Oct 13, 2009, 07:09 AM
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#3
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Newbie
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Location: NC
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Grab an RCA kit.
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Oct 13, 2009, 08:35 AM
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#4
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NTEC Club Forum Leader
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Location: Frisco, TX
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Drives: RR EvoX
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^ this will not solve the problem.
The issue is that the X from the factory has a VERY soft spring rate. This makes for a very nice ride around town, but when pushed, the car will lean pretty heavily.
You can get drop springs, which will help a bit and leave the ride still comfortable, but it won't take it away completely. Or you can get coilovers, which can get rid of it, but it will make the ride suck (simply too stiff).
Remember, a little bit of weight transfer (roll) is good, so you don't want your car perfectly flat.
Another thing you can do is get a more aggressive alignment. Shoot for 2*+ of negative camber up front (leave the rear -1* to -1.5*) and the car will turn a lot better.
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Oct 13, 2009, 12:45 PM
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#5
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Evolved Member
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 1,314
Drives: 00 Eclipse GT SDS Stg. 3 & 08 RR EVO X GSR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goofygrin
^ this will not solve the problem.
The issue is that the X from the factory has a VERY soft spring rate. This makes for a very nice ride around town, but when pushed, the car will lean pretty heavily.
You can get drop springs, which will help a bit and leave the ride still comfortable, but it won't take it away completely. Or you can get coilovers, which can get rid of it, but it will make the ride suck (simply too stiff).
Remember, a little bit of weight transfer (roll) is good, so you don't want your car perfectly flat.
Another thing you can do is get a more aggressive alignment. Shoot for 2*+ of negative camber up front (leave the rear -1* to -1.5*) and the car will turn a lot better.
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I went with -1.5 upfront but should have went with -2 up front. I change that in the spring with the new wheel and tire setup. 275/35/18 NT05
Springs, Sways, and RCA kit help with the body roll and weight transfers as well as much improved handling. I have the Swifts and I get a bit of body roll, but they are great around town. Not so much for autoX.
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-CBRD Tune -COBB AP -COBB UICP, LICP, BOV HP -COBB SFI -COBB Turbo Inlet Pipe -COBB Sway Bars -ETS 4" FMIC -AMS DP -T1R Exhaust -MXP TP -FORGE WGA -xMR Catch Cans -AMS Front Rollerstop -AMS Fuel Rail -evoDynamics 3 Port -Deatschwerks 800cc -Techna-Fit SS Lines -TWM Short Shifter -WORKS Bushings -SWIFT Sport-Mach's -Whiteline Kit -AEM UEGO -STRI PSI Gauge -Rally Armor Mudflaps -PERRIN 3" Ant.
Future:
ROTA Torque
CBRD BBK Turbo
Kelford Stg.2 w Springs
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Oct 13, 2009, 01:06 PM
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#6
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NTEC Club Forum Leader
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Drives: RR EvoX
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The RCA, to me, does not seem to solve any real problem. There are no hard numbers as to what it does. It also moves you all the way to street mod for autocross.
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Oct 13, 2009, 02:40 PM
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#7
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Silver Sponsor
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Location: Columbia, Maryland
Posts: 2,383
Drives: 2004 STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goofygrin
The RCA, to me, does not seem to solve any real problem. There are no hard numbers as to what it does. It also moves you all the way to street mod for autocross.
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No need to look at hard numbers, just understand how it works. You'll see that it reduces front roll by reducing the roll couple, especially for lowered cars. If you auto-x, it is one to avoid based on classing as you said.
The numbers are not fun to calculate for me, and I'm not even allergic to math. If I really had to I would....
- Andrew
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Oct 13, 2009, 04:29 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTWORX.com
No need to look at hard numbers, just understand how it works. You'll see that it reduces front roll by reducing the roll couple, especially for lowered cars. If you auto-x, it is one to avoid based on classing as you said.
The numbers are not fun to calculate for me, and I'm not even allergic to math. If I really had to I would....
- Andrew
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yup!
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Oct 13, 2009, 09:39 PM
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#9
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Evolving Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Posts: 165
Drives: 2008 WW X MR: 325tq, 305whp, Rota Grids, Perrin shorty ant., Cobb F+B sway bars, HKS drop-in (3 layer-dry), AMS twin tip catback exhaust, UPIC, HBspeed tune
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I have -1.3s in front, 0s in the backs and I have to say I liked the 0s all around better for street driving. I sometimes now over do it and have to be careful when cornering aggressively!
I do not track or auto cross. So what is the concensus? Lowering springs?
Thanks
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Oct 14, 2009, 08:46 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navidf
I have -1.3s in front, 0s in the backs and I have to say I liked the 0s all around better for street driving. I sometimes now over do it and have to be careful when cornering aggressively!
I do not track or auto cross. So what is the concensus? Lowering springs?
Thanks
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over do what?
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Oct 14, 2009, 09:06 AM
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#11
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NTEC Club Forum Leader
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Location: Frisco, TX
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Drives: RR EvoX
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You have 0 degrees of camber on the car?
That is a TERRIBLE way to have the car setup. It will be fine for a straight line, but it's absolutely going to SUCK when turning.
now 0* of toe is the best setup.
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Oct 14, 2009, 11:11 AM
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#12
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Yeah, if you're running -1.3 up front and 0 out back in camber, you'll have oversteer issues. If you're running -1.3 all around with 0 toe all around, you shouldn't have that...
More importantly before getting into your settings is describe whats going on when you "over do it". What behavior is the car exhibiting and what are you doing to cause it?
It's easy to tell you what parts to buy, but the best nut to tighten is behind the wheel.
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Oct 14, 2009, 11:36 AM
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#13
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Drives: 2004 STi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveGSR
More importantly before getting into your settings is describe whats going on when you "over do it". What behavior is the car exhibiting and what are you doing to cause it?
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With 0 degrees of rear camber, I can make a pretty good guess as to what's happening when he "over does it" and has to be careful.....
- drew
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Oct 14, 2009, 11:47 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTWORX.com
With 0 degrees of rear camber, I can make a pretty good guess as to what's happening when he "over does it" and has to be careful.....
- drew
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 true
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Oct 15, 2009, 07:27 PM
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#15
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Evolving Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Home
Posts: 165
Drives: 2008 WW X MR: 325tq, 305whp, Rota Grids, Perrin shorty ant., Cobb F+B sway bars, HKS drop-in (3 layer-dry), AMS twin tip catback exhaust, UPIC, HBspeed tune
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Darrin at westend alignment did my setup. He does everything by hand so may be I misunderstood what he said. I will call him tomorrow and confirm: if he remember!
By overdoing I mean my tail gives out to the right on a sharp left turn, if I am not careful with my steering efforts.
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