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Old Oct 12, 2009, 11:51 PM   #1
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Drives: 2008 WW X MR: 325tq, 305whp, Rota Grids, Perrin shorty ant., Cobb F+B sway bars, HKS drop-in (3 layer-dry), AMS twin tip catback exhaust, UPIC, HBspeed tune

side-to-side sway in my MR

The front and rear Cobb sway bars in my car made a big difference in the cornering and side to side sway. However, still when I hit a pump in high speed, or turn my steering wheel to a quick side to side roll, I still have too much sway and during driving at high speeds in an imperfect road, it actually make me feel a bit uneasy in the handling department. Is this tire related (put more air in them, change them out) or spring related (change out to swifts or eibachs pro) or something else?
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 01:53 AM   #2
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Park your evox next to a camry, honda accord, most midsize american cars, and you'll see how damn tall the car is.

probably stiffer lowering springs to go along with the sways if the body roll puts you off. I prefer the compliance of the stock suspension, myself. This is also the reason why i say you'd be crazy to forgo the aluminum roof to get a sunroof on the upscale MR model.
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 07:09 AM   #3
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Grab an RCA kit.
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 08:35 AM   #4
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^ this will not solve the problem.

The issue is that the X from the factory has a VERY soft spring rate. This makes for a very nice ride around town, but when pushed, the car will lean pretty heavily.

You can get drop springs, which will help a bit and leave the ride still comfortable, but it won't take it away completely. Or you can get coilovers, which can get rid of it, but it will make the ride suck (simply too stiff).

Remember, a little bit of weight transfer (roll) is good, so you don't want your car perfectly flat.

Another thing you can do is get a more aggressive alignment. Shoot for 2*+ of negative camber up front (leave the rear -1* to -1.5*) and the car will turn a lot better.
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 12:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goofygrin View Post
^ this will not solve the problem.

The issue is that the X from the factory has a VERY soft spring rate. This makes for a very nice ride around town, but when pushed, the car will lean pretty heavily.

You can get drop springs, which will help a bit and leave the ride still comfortable, but it won't take it away completely. Or you can get coilovers, which can get rid of it, but it will make the ride suck (simply too stiff).

Remember, a little bit of weight transfer (roll) is good, so you don't want your car perfectly flat.

Another thing you can do is get a more aggressive alignment. Shoot for 2*+ of negative camber up front (leave the rear -1* to -1.5*) and the car will turn a lot better.
I went with -1.5 upfront but should have went with -2 up front. I change that in the spring with the new wheel and tire setup. 275/35/18 NT05

Springs, Sways, and RCA kit help with the body roll and weight transfers as well as much improved handling. I have the Swifts and I get a bit of body roll, but they are great around town. Not so much for autoX.
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 01:06 PM   #6
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The RCA, to me, does not seem to solve any real problem. There are no hard numbers as to what it does. It also moves you all the way to street mod for autocross.
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 02:40 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by goofygrin View Post
The RCA, to me, does not seem to solve any real problem. There are no hard numbers as to what it does. It also moves you all the way to street mod for autocross.
No need to look at hard numbers, just understand how it works. You'll see that it reduces front roll by reducing the roll couple, especially for lowered cars. If you auto-x, it is one to avoid based on classing as you said.

The numbers are not fun to calculate for me, and I'm not even allergic to math. If I really had to I would....

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Old Oct 13, 2009, 04:29 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by GTWORX.com View Post
No need to look at hard numbers, just understand how it works. You'll see that it reduces front roll by reducing the roll couple, especially for lowered cars. If you auto-x, it is one to avoid based on classing as you said.

The numbers are not fun to calculate for me, and I'm not even allergic to math. If I really had to I would....

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yup!
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 09:39 PM   #9
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I have -1.3s in front, 0s in the backs and I have to say I liked the 0s all around better for street driving. I sometimes now over do it and have to be careful when cornering aggressively!
I do not track or auto cross. So what is the concensus? Lowering springs?
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 08:46 AM   #10
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I have -1.3s in front, 0s in the backs and I have to say I liked the 0s all around better for street driving. I sometimes now over do it and have to be careful when cornering aggressively!
I do not track or auto cross. So what is the concensus? Lowering springs?
Thanks
over do what?
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 09:06 AM   #11
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You have 0 degrees of camber on the car?

That is a TERRIBLE way to have the car setup. It will be fine for a straight line, but it's absolutely going to SUCK when turning.

now 0* of toe is the best setup.
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 11:11 AM   #12
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Yeah, if you're running -1.3 up front and 0 out back in camber, you'll have oversteer issues. If you're running -1.3 all around with 0 toe all around, you shouldn't have that...

More importantly before getting into your settings is describe whats going on when you "over do it". What behavior is the car exhibiting and what are you doing to cause it?

It's easy to tell you what parts to buy, but the best nut to tighten is behind the wheel.
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 11:36 AM   #13
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More importantly before getting into your settings is describe whats going on when you "over do it". What behavior is the car exhibiting and what are you doing to cause it?
With 0 degrees of rear camber, I can make a pretty good guess as to what's happening when he "over does it" and has to be careful.....


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Old Oct 14, 2009, 11:47 AM   #14
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With 0 degrees of rear camber, I can make a pretty good guess as to what's happening when he "over does it" and has to be careful.....


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true
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Old Oct 15, 2009, 07:27 PM   #15
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Drives: 2008 WW X MR: 325tq, 305whp, Rota Grids, Perrin shorty ant., Cobb F+B sway bars, HKS drop-in (3 layer-dry), AMS twin tip catback exhaust, UPIC, HBspeed tune

Darrin at westend alignment did my setup. He does everything by hand so may be I misunderstood what he said. I will call him tomorrow and confirm: if he remember!
By overdoing I mean my tail gives out to the right on a sharp left turn, if I am not careful with my steering efforts.
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