Mitsulover

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone have any info for replacing the Hydrolic Pump? Links to pages, pdf's, how long it takes, if a lift is needed? Mine just went and i'm getting all the info together for the replacement. I know I need to bleed and am working on getting the software. Any info would be great!!! I'm hoping this isn't a royal pain in the a$$.

Germania123

I just had mine done at the dealer under warrenty and it took them 2 tries because the first time they installed a faulty pump. Thank God it was under warrenty, but either way, it was a major hassle.

mump

iTrader: (46)

I just watched my pump get installed yesterday. If you got a new pump, you can remove the old one and replace in less than an hour. Bleeding the ACD/AYC on the other hand, looks like a real *** pain...ESP if you don't know what you are doing.

I had my pump rebuilt. It was glass blasted, sealed and weatherized - which took about a total of 3.5 hours, from removal to rebleed. The guy who rebuilds them here told me it is not exactly the cold weather like everyone thinks. It is the salt and crap that is destroying the aluminum. Then on super cold days, the corroded aluminum shrinks a little, seal is not there, fluid can't build pressure, and pump burns out.

Mitsulover

iTrader: (1)

Thanks mump! So would you say you need a lift to change the pump? I haven't actually looked under the car to see what's needed do to the crappy weather here.

"Bleeding the ACD/AYC on the other hand, looks like a real *** pain..."

As for the bleeding of the ACD/AYC I have software and the cable to activate the bleed function. Why do you say it looks to be a pain in the ***?

mump

iTrader: (46)

no lift to change the actual pump. just some clamps to clamp off the fluid tubes and some basic wrenches and screws. remover the rear bumper, clamp tubes, disconnect the wiring and unbolt the pump bracket.

now to bleed the pump, a lift will be nice. you need to remove the plastic undertray to bleed the acd. the guy doing it removed the acd ecu and plugged a little box with 4-5 switches. this activated the different parts of the pump. he said that that box did in 5 minutes what the mitsu tool and software does in about 50 or so minutes.

justastockevo

iTrader: (1)

bleeding is very easy, provided that you have tephra's tool and a couple of friends
one releases the screws, second turns on necessary actuators, third watches oil level and refills it...

kikiturbo

ok, here is the ACD/AYC pump repair video... it is probably too long but I wanted to go in detail... The tools and kits are available, we have managed to produce the non standard parts that are not available from mitsubishi... like the pump plate and the special oil seal between the pump and the electric motor.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ZrYjQat4KGE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

http://youtu.be/ZrYjQat4KGE

please note, this was done with E9 pump, but I am checking if the kit will fit the X or if we will need to change it a bit..

Mitsulover

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for every ones input. I had a chance to check the pump out since we've had a stream of good weather and it indeed looks very easy to replace and bleed. Since I have the Tephra tool, soon I will have the Tactrix Openport 2.0 and i will buying a used 2010 pump on eBay and will undertake the replacement process. Still haven't decided whether or not I will do a How-To since I've never documented anything like that. But I really want to give back to the community so we shall see.

EVO9 ED

iTrader: (7)

So i think my pump went out my AYC light wont go away and i don't have a code so will my dealership fix the issue under warranty my car has 47k and a few modds

GsrEviluTionX

Weird, my pump went last year. all i did was purchase a brand new one for around 1000-1200 at the dealership and installed it myself in the parking lot.

!!! DONT BUY USED!!! i bought a used one from a member on here and got screwed, just not worth the problems.

BUt anyway , What was weird was i never bleed my ayc. Ive been fine since then. I was under the assumption that i woulda had to bleed the ayc but after install i got no light and it ran perfect. That was 11+ months ago

If you wanna be lazy all you have to do is take the back wheel off and fender lining off and it sitting right behind the fender liner on passanger rear wheel.

What i also did FYI is wrapped the key components of my pump with insulator to protect from weather and debri.

What makes me mad now though is knowing i tossed my old pump right in the garbage, i NEVER that they could be repaired!!!

Johnr352

iTrader: (18)

You bought a brand new pump and installed it in the parking lot? And then, you chose not to bleed the system, despite understanding that it should be done?

Gutsy. Ummm and it seems maybe not the best protocol for an important component of the drivetrain. To each his own but I might suggest, if you are going to go through the trouble of replacing the pump and have further expectations that it work properly for a long time (longer than 11 months), than it is worth doing it right.

EVO9 ED

iTrader: (7)

Will it hurt car if i drive it with the AYC light is on i think my pump went out but i been driving it like that the nearest dealership is like 1hr away from my place .

Johnr352

iTrader: (18)

It's a good question. My understanding is that, if the pump is dead then it is dead and further driving won't hurt anything else. You don't have the AYC system, and all that, but the car should be ok. I might call the dealership and confirm this thinking or do a little more research here. I worry that the dealership will say, "put it on a flatbed" only because it's easier for them then to have to think about what the yellow light means and its implication on the rest of the car.

JV21804

nice youtube video will be handy if i need to change mine

Scox1026

Unfortunately the time has come and my pump has failed Just hit 40K miles. I knew it was just a matter of time before it happened..

Today is the first day to hit single digit temps here in ohio and i know my pump failure has to be related somehow to the extreme cold.. I was just driving on my lunch break when i heard the "ding" and looked down to see that i had the dreaded orange dash with "service required" sign. Once i got back to work i plugged my cobb AP in to pull the codes and confirmed that it was the acd C161e

Well its going to have to wait until spring to get fixed, i refuse to take my car into I know what i need to do, just cant do it on the freezing cold garage floor . someone needs to make a kit to relocate the pump to inside the trunk to protect it from the elements..