Car is failing state inspection
Aug 25, 2012, 07:03 PM
#1
Car is failing state inspection
Im registering the car in RI and have to go through the stupid safety and emissions inspection (don't get me started on what I think about it
) Anyways, everything is passing except the evap system, which when they plug in the OBD it is saying that the evap system check is incomplete. The car is not throwing any codes or check engine lights but I can't pass if this doesn't clear. Car is completely stock and has just over 14,000 miles on it so really new...
Essentially the ECU is telling me it needs more time to gather data and generate a response (ie system good/bad) but the car has been driven plenty. I've talked with Dynotech and they gave me a few good ideas (already checked the solenoid up front and the gas cap is fine) so I will be going under the car tomorrow to check out the evap system (located under the car near the driver rear wheel). If nothing is disconnected or broken though I'm kinda out of luck. It might be that there is something wrong with the ECU but Mitsubishi won't look at the car unless there is a CEL (otherwise they're going to charge me a crap ton of money that might be refunded IF they do find something that can be covered under warranty). Any other suggestions on what might be wrong or what to check out? Or does anyone familiar with the RI process know how to circumvent it or complete the wavier?
Thanks.
) Anyways, everything is passing except the evap system, which when they plug in the OBD it is saying that the evap system check is incomplete. The car is not throwing any codes or check engine lights but I can't pass if this doesn't clear. Car is completely stock and has just over 14,000 miles on it so really new...Essentially the ECU is telling me it needs more time to gather data and generate a response (ie system good/bad) but the car has been driven plenty. I've talked with Dynotech and they gave me a few good ideas (already checked the solenoid up front and the gas cap is fine) so I will be going under the car tomorrow to check out the evap system (located under the car near the driver rear wheel). If nothing is disconnected or broken though I'm kinda out of luck. It might be that there is something wrong with the ECU but Mitsubishi won't look at the car unless there is a CEL (otherwise they're going to charge me a crap ton of money that might be refunded IF they do find something that can be covered under warranty). Any other suggestions on what might be wrong or what to check out? Or does anyone familiar with the RI process know how to circumvent it or complete the wavier?
Thanks.
Aug 25, 2012, 07:08 PM
#2
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Bring a copy of the inspection report to the dealer and ask again. If they refuse, go over their head and talk with the regional service rep.
If you have had the battery disconnected recently, it will take the car about 100 miles or so to reset all the readiness states on the OBDII tests. The 2 slow ones on my Evo 8 were the EGR and Evap control.
If you have had the battery disconnected recently, it will take the car about 100 miles or so to reset all the readiness states on the OBDII tests. The 2 slow ones on my Evo 8 were the EGR and Evap control.
Aug 25, 2012, 07:15 PM
#3
Bring a copy of the inspection report to the dealer and ask again. If they refuse, go over their head and talk with the regional service rep.
If you have had the battery disconnected recently, it will take the car about 100 miles or so to reset all the readiness states on the OBDII tests. The 2 slow ones on my Evo 8 were the EGR and Evap control.
If you have had the battery disconnected recently, it will take the car about 100 miles or so to reset all the readiness states on the OBDII tests. The 2 slow ones on my Evo 8 were the EGR and Evap control.
Aug 25, 2012, 07:19 PM
#4
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might be one of the bad relay's....might want to check those? I'd honestly reset your battery and drive over 100 miles and then check it. OBD II isn't the best system but also, try going to another smog check site, they could have a faulty or bugged system. Hope you can figure it out, also, if you've bought it from a dealership, it should have been smogged or cleared from them, they can't sell a car that's not able to pass emissions, and if they did sell it to you like this then they're responsible, I'd take it back to them and complain =)
GL
GL
Aug 25, 2012, 07:23 PM
#5
might be one of the bad relay's....might want to check those? I'd honestly reset your battery and drive over 100 miles and then check it. OBD II isn't the best system but also, try going to another smog check site, they could have a faulty or bugged system. Hope you can figure it out, also, if you've bought it from a dealership, it should have been smogged or cleared from them, they can't sell a car that's not able to pass emissions, and if they did sell it to you like this then they're responsible, I'd take it back to them and complain =)
GL
GL
I'd go to another inspection site but then I'd have to pay them too and I won't get refunded....
Aug 25, 2012, 07:39 PM
#7
Thanks for the responses so far and I will try disconnecting the battery to see what happens...
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Aug 25, 2012, 07:42 PM
#8
You don't know anyone, locally, who could help you with this? I could tell you at minimum 5 shops in the area in which I used to live which were mod friendly and would hook people up on inspections (we are talking $10 for a full inspection). Is this not the case in RI?
Aug 25, 2012, 07:55 PM
#9
You don't know anyone, locally, who could help you with this? I could tell you at minimum 5 shops in the area in which I used to live which were mod friendly and would hook people up on inspections (we are talking $10 for a full inspection). Is this not the case in RI?
Aug 26, 2012, 05:02 AM
#14
How full was your gas tank when the test was run and had the car been allowed to sit overnight before the test?
What is an OBD inspection patch?