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Nov 4, 2009, 08:04 PM
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#1
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Return Fuel Line Install
So I just recieved my new Return Fuel Line ( The one that is on RECALL - opting to install it myself like many, for the same reasons as many here). Looks like a relatively easy install.
Just a question if there is anything I need know as precautions or anything, like, is there a need to purge or bleed the fuel lines after install, or anything else?
Thanks
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Nov 4, 2009, 08:15 PM
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#2
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Personal Sales Rating: ( 4)
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Location: Central NJ
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Drives: RR Evo X GSR
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Moved to Engine/Turbo/Drivetrain where you should have better exposure to those who can help.
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2008 Rally Red Evo X GSR
AMS Intake | AMS UICP | AMS FMIC | AMS LICP | AMS O2/Downpipe | AMS HFC | Buschur Catback (modified) | Ivey Tune 340whp 338wtq
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Nov 4, 2009, 08:27 PM
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#3
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Drives: 2008 Evo X GSR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theFLASH12
So I just recieved my new Return Fuel Line ( The one that is on RECALL - opting to install it myself like many, for the same reasons as many here). Looks like a relatively easy install.
Just a question if there is anything I need know as precautions or anything, like, is there a need to purge or bleed the fuel lines after install, or anything else?
Thanks
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I had the one in my car done a few weeks back,I saw them do the install and no purge of the line was done.
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08 GSR - Best ET so far 12.1
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Nov 4, 2009, 08:29 PM
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#4
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Evolving Member
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Location: SL, UT
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Drives: OB 08 Lancer Evo X
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You should be OK in just removing one end of the line (the physically lower end) with some rags under it. That side of the fuel system is not pressurized and will have a minimal amount of fuel left in it after the engine is shut off.
No purging, nothing else. Just triple check everything once you're done as it is a very critical engine system
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Nov 4, 2009, 08:43 PM
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#5
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Drives: 2008 Evo X GSR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UT_EvoX
You should be OK in just removing one end of the line (the physically lower end) with some rags under it. That side of the fuel system is not pressurized and will have a minimal amount of fuel left in it after the engine is shut off.
No purging, nothing else. Just triple check everything once you're done as it is a very critical engine system 
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yeap,what he said!
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08 GSR - Best ET so far 12.1
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Nov 4, 2009, 08:46 PM
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#6
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how much were the parts? if you dont mind me asking
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Nov 4, 2009, 08:53 PM
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#7
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Evolving Member
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if you want to go the lazy way just take the brackets off and mount those on your existing line.
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Nov 5, 2009, 06:01 AM
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#8
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Drives: '08 EVO X & '94 Honda Civic Hatchback ('09 Project SFWD)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltdanish07
how much were the parts? if you dont mind me asking
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^ +1 and also if you can share the part number that needs to be purchased.
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WW EVO X
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Nov 5, 2009, 06:31 AM
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#9
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^ Thanks for the info guys
Quote:
Originally Posted by goevox
if you want to go the lazy way just take the brackets off and mount those on your existing line.
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Hmm just removing the brackets and adding them to the existing line? I don't know if I'd be completely comfortable with that. What if the new line is of a different strength steel or material is processed differently? My understanding is that at some given rpm an engine resonance is incurred that causes our OEM line to crack, do we know for a fact that the new line may not have some special processing that helps prevent this (along with the brackets of course)?
Quote:
Originally Posted by proracer718
^ +1 and also if you can share the part number that needs to be purchased.
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p/n MW400021, from Russel at Mitsubishiparts.net, $27.95 shipped, I did also buy some other little parts at the same time which may have brought freight up to $8. I save Money and time in the long run because of how far the dealer is from me compared to the easy install of doing it myself
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Nov 5, 2009, 08:41 PM
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#10
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its the same exact line made out of the same exact stuff, you can just swap the brackets but nobody know what kind of condition your current line is in.
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