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My tune is killing my car. Halp!

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Old Jul 30, 2014, 11:16 AM
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Unhappy My tune is killing my car. Halp!

Hello All!

I have recently started putting a few bolt-ons on my Evo and have been struggling with getting my tune right.


I have the following parts currently installed:
HKS Catback exhaust
Sakura Upper Intercooler Hard Piping
Sakura Intake
Cobb AccessPort


So, not a ton, but enough to switch up how my car runs.
I am currently using the Stage2+CHFF 93 v403 map directly off of Cobbs website.


My car was originally running on the Stage1 93 v403 when I only had the exhaust and the AP.


Now I am seeing some strange behavior with idle and with slowing down from high speeds.
My idle shifts from about 1000RPM to 1500RPM when at a stop.
And my car is entirely stalling when I am coming down from high speeds.
Today I was getting on to an exit ramp and was doing around 85MPH. When I got down to 60 with the clutch pushed in and still in 5th gear, the car entirely stalled. This is the second time this has happened and I worry that it is going to negatively affect the car.


Can anyone provide some advice for which tune to choose/what may be causing the issue?
I am completely at a loss here


Thanks!
-Kelly

Last edited by ladydrivenevo; Aug 1, 2014 at 06:30 AM.
Old Jul 30, 2014, 11:33 AM
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First issue is running a Cobb tune.......
Old Jul 30, 2014, 12:17 PM
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Spreading misinformation and dissing cobb doesn't help his issue.

If this problem didn't start until you changed intakes and so in there is a possibility you missed something in your install. Check all your vacuum lines first. Make sure you double check all fittings. The evo x are sensitive to these things. Also the map when you downloaded it did you copy all your tables correctly? Are the factory boost pills in place, no lines crossed right? All your sensor connections solid?

Maybe someone else can chime in but I believe the cobb maps that have designations like yours are for cobbs accessories off their website. But check with them.

Good luck.
Old Jul 30, 2014, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Mystykalbaby
Spreading misinformation and dissing cobb doesn't help his issue.

If this problem didn't start until you changed intakes and so in there is a possibility you missed something in your install. Check all your vacuum lines first. Make sure you double check all fittings. The evo x are sensitive to these things. Also the map when you downloaded it did you copy all your tables correctly? Are the factory boost pills in place, no lines crossed right? All your sensor connections solid?

Maybe someone else can chime in but I believe the cobb maps that have designations like yours are for cobbs accessories off their website. But check with them.

Good luck.

There's a reason people pay a couple hundred for a tune. So that the tuner can check to make sure the car itself, physically, has no issues.

In all honesty it sounds like a damn tune related issue if the car just stalls/quits out like that. The high idle MIGHT be an intake related issue but try reverting back to the stock map for just a moment (no hard driving) and report back to see if things go back to normal. It's a lot easier to revert to a stock map than it is to figure out if the intake/hardware is causing the issue. Rule out the software side first.
Old Jul 30, 2014, 02:26 PM
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Log it, and post them up for the people who know what they are looking for, to look at. If you can log and get it to act up again, it will be easier to see what the issue is.
Old Jul 30, 2014, 05:12 PM
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Isn't the stage 2 tune for people who have an aftermarket downpipe? That's what "stage 2" meant for my STi at least
Old Jul 30, 2014, 11:41 PM
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you using stage 2 without hfc or tp? you are killing your car
Old Jul 31, 2014, 07:32 AM
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The parts configuration you are running is not correct for the map that you are using as stated previously. A Stage 2 map is designed for an Evo running a full turbo-back exhaust with no other modifications. You should be running a Stage 1 map with adjustments made for the intake you are running.

-Eric
Old Jul 31, 2014, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by COBB Tuning
The parts configuration you are running is not correct for the map that you are using as stated previously. A Stage 2 map is designed for an Evo running a full turbo-back exhaust with no other modifications. You should be running a Stage 1 map with adjustments made for the intake you are running.

-Eric
To clarify, you're saying that the stage 2 map which theoretically should just have a bit more fuel added to it is the reason behind the high idle and the stalls?
Old Jul 31, 2014, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by powerdriver
To clarify, you're saying that the stage 2 map which theoretically should just have a bit more fuel added to it is the reason behind the high idle and the stalls?
You're an idiot.

OP, your intake is likely what is causing the issue as the OTS maps are calibrated for the stock intake. Furthermore, as already stated the Stage 2 maps are going to be a bit more agressive than your mods dictate. Stick with the Stage 1 maps and google evo x MAF calibration or get with a tuner who can help you dial in your intake.
Old Jul 31, 2014, 09:33 AM
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*sigh*

I'm partly messing with you and partly being serious.
I truly hate the whole "stage" bullcrap.

More importantly, the TUNE may not be causing the issue that you're running into. You could just be blaming something that isn't the issue.
Like I said. Revert back to the OEM flash. See if the problem goes away. If it does, figure out who near you can tune Cobb/EVO X
If the issue continues after you're back on the stock map, start digging into the intake. Make sure you didn't forget to plug in your MAF or forget to hook up a vac line or any of that.

More importantly, the "stage 2" tune is a full turbo back without an intake? So catless?
Stage 1 is... catback?

Moral of the story is, go find a tuner and figure out if your issue is tune related or hardware related.
Old Jul 31, 2014, 10:05 AM
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^ Bad advice. Again running the stock tune or any tune designed for the stock intake with something other than the stock intake is a bad idea. Among other things, doing that will result in off-target AFR's and bad load calculations which can take you to a different area of the timing map and give you a really bad day. You have two options:

1. Tune the appropriate map (Stage 1 or stock) for the intake you have.
2. Replace your intake with the stock piece, and run either the OTS stage 1 map or revert to the stock map.
Old Jul 31, 2014, 10:39 AM
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the sakura intake is a larger pipe than oem. thats throwing off the maf calcs. you need to get a proper tune with correct scaling for the intake. anytime you change out an oem part that effects airflow in or out, you should assume your tune needs to updated to reflect that

Last edited by zabes; Jul 31, 2014 at 10:41 AM.
Old Jul 31, 2014, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by zabes
the sakura intake is a larger pipe than oem. thats throwing off the maf calcs. you need to get a proper tune with correct scaling for the intake. anytime you change out an oem part that effects airflow in or out, you should assume your tune needs to updated to reflect that


you are absolutely right the sakura intake is larger piping diameter!
Old Jul 31, 2014, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by cravnpup
^ Bad advice. Again running the stock tune or any tune designed for the stock intake with something other than the stock intake is a bad idea. Among other things, doing that will result in off-target AFR's and bad load calculations which can take you to a different area of the timing map and give you a really bad day. You have two options:

1. Tune the appropriate map (Stage 1 or stock) for the intake you have.
2. Replace your intake with the stock piece, and run either the OTS stage 1 map or revert to the stock map.
Seriously.... does anyone know how a MAF works? It measures air travel.
The diameter of the pipe itself might be larger than stock, however the coupler reduces the diameter to the size of the MAF.
The stock tune can and will compensate for the additional air flow as measured by the MAF. The ECU will be able to add fuel accordingly to reach the target air fuel ratio.
Don't go WOT, don't boost. Just drive normal and see if the stock tune fixes the high idle/stall issue. If it does, go find a tuner. The car WILL NOT have any issues with the stock maps loaded back on if all you have is an intake and catback.


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