My tune is killing my car. Halp!
#1
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My tune is killing my car. Halp!
Hello All!
I have recently started putting a few bolt-ons on my Evo and have been struggling with getting my tune right.
I have the following parts currently installed:
HKS Catback exhaust
Sakura Upper Intercooler Hard Piping
Sakura Intake
Cobb AccessPort
So, not a ton, but enough to switch up how my car runs.
I am currently using the Stage2+CHFF 93 v403 map directly off of Cobbs website.
My car was originally running on the Stage1 93 v403 when I only had the exhaust and the AP.
Now I am seeing some strange behavior with idle and with slowing down from high speeds.
My idle shifts from about 1000RPM to 1500RPM when at a stop.
And my car is entirely stalling when I am coming down from high speeds.
Today I was getting on to an exit ramp and was doing around 85MPH. When I got down to 60 with the clutch pushed in and still in 5th gear, the car entirely stalled. This is the second time this has happened and I worry that it is going to negatively affect the car.
Can anyone provide some advice for which tune to choose/what may be causing the issue?
I am completely at a loss here
Thanks!
-Kelly
I have recently started putting a few bolt-ons on my Evo and have been struggling with getting my tune right.
I have the following parts currently installed:
HKS Catback exhaust
Sakura Upper Intercooler Hard Piping
Sakura Intake
Cobb AccessPort
So, not a ton, but enough to switch up how my car runs.
I am currently using the Stage2+CHFF 93 v403 map directly off of Cobbs website.
My car was originally running on the Stage1 93 v403 when I only had the exhaust and the AP.
Now I am seeing some strange behavior with idle and with slowing down from high speeds.
My idle shifts from about 1000RPM to 1500RPM when at a stop.
And my car is entirely stalling when I am coming down from high speeds.
Today I was getting on to an exit ramp and was doing around 85MPH. When I got down to 60 with the clutch pushed in and still in 5th gear, the car entirely stalled. This is the second time this has happened and I worry that it is going to negatively affect the car.
Can anyone provide some advice for which tune to choose/what may be causing the issue?
I am completely at a loss here
Thanks!
-Kelly
Last edited by ladydrivenevo; Aug 1, 2014 at 06:30 AM.
#3
Spreading misinformation and dissing cobb doesn't help his issue.
If this problem didn't start until you changed intakes and so in there is a possibility you missed something in your install. Check all your vacuum lines first. Make sure you double check all fittings. The evo x are sensitive to these things. Also the map when you downloaded it did you copy all your tables correctly? Are the factory boost pills in place, no lines crossed right? All your sensor connections solid?
Maybe someone else can chime in but I believe the cobb maps that have designations like yours are for cobbs accessories off their website. But check with them.
Good luck.
If this problem didn't start until you changed intakes and so in there is a possibility you missed something in your install. Check all your vacuum lines first. Make sure you double check all fittings. The evo x are sensitive to these things. Also the map when you downloaded it did you copy all your tables correctly? Are the factory boost pills in place, no lines crossed right? All your sensor connections solid?
Maybe someone else can chime in but I believe the cobb maps that have designations like yours are for cobbs accessories off their website. But check with them.
Good luck.
#4
Spreading misinformation and dissing cobb doesn't help his issue.
If this problem didn't start until you changed intakes and so in there is a possibility you missed something in your install. Check all your vacuum lines first. Make sure you double check all fittings. The evo x are sensitive to these things. Also the map when you downloaded it did you copy all your tables correctly? Are the factory boost pills in place, no lines crossed right? All your sensor connections solid?
Maybe someone else can chime in but I believe the cobb maps that have designations like yours are for cobbs accessories off their website. But check with them.
Good luck.
If this problem didn't start until you changed intakes and so in there is a possibility you missed something in your install. Check all your vacuum lines first. Make sure you double check all fittings. The evo x are sensitive to these things. Also the map when you downloaded it did you copy all your tables correctly? Are the factory boost pills in place, no lines crossed right? All your sensor connections solid?
Maybe someone else can chime in but I believe the cobb maps that have designations like yours are for cobbs accessories off their website. But check with them.
Good luck.
There's a reason people pay a couple hundred for a tune. So that the tuner can check to make sure the car itself, physically, has no issues.
In all honesty it sounds like a damn tune related issue if the car just stalls/quits out like that. The high idle MIGHT be an intake related issue but try reverting back to the stock map for just a moment (no hard driving) and report back to see if things go back to normal. It's a lot easier to revert to a stock map than it is to figure out if the intake/hardware is causing the issue. Rule out the software side first.
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Log it, and post them up for the people who know what they are looking for, to look at. If you can log and get it to act up again, it will be easier to see what the issue is.
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#8
The parts configuration you are running is not correct for the map that you are using as stated previously. A Stage 2 map is designed for an Evo running a full turbo-back exhaust with no other modifications. You should be running a Stage 1 map with adjustments made for the intake you are running.
-Eric
-Eric
#9
The parts configuration you are running is not correct for the map that you are using as stated previously. A Stage 2 map is designed for an Evo running a full turbo-back exhaust with no other modifications. You should be running a Stage 1 map with adjustments made for the intake you are running.
-Eric
-Eric
#10
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OP, your intake is likely what is causing the issue as the OTS maps are calibrated for the stock intake. Furthermore, as already stated the Stage 2 maps are going to be a bit more agressive than your mods dictate. Stick with the Stage 1 maps and google evo x MAF calibration or get with a tuner who can help you dial in your intake.
#11
*sigh*
I'm partly messing with you and partly being serious.
I truly hate the whole "stage" bullcrap.
More importantly, the TUNE may not be causing the issue that you're running into. You could just be blaming something that isn't the issue.
Like I said. Revert back to the OEM flash. See if the problem goes away. If it does, figure out who near you can tune Cobb/EVO X
If the issue continues after you're back on the stock map, start digging into the intake. Make sure you didn't forget to plug in your MAF or forget to hook up a vac line or any of that.
More importantly, the "stage 2" tune is a full turbo back without an intake? So catless?
Stage 1 is... catback?
Moral of the story is, go find a tuner and figure out if your issue is tune related or hardware related.
I'm partly messing with you and partly being serious.
I truly hate the whole "stage" bullcrap.
More importantly, the TUNE may not be causing the issue that you're running into. You could just be blaming something that isn't the issue.
Like I said. Revert back to the OEM flash. See if the problem goes away. If it does, figure out who near you can tune Cobb/EVO X
If the issue continues after you're back on the stock map, start digging into the intake. Make sure you didn't forget to plug in your MAF or forget to hook up a vac line or any of that.
More importantly, the "stage 2" tune is a full turbo back without an intake? So catless?
Stage 1 is... catback?
Moral of the story is, go find a tuner and figure out if your issue is tune related or hardware related.
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^ Bad advice. Again running the stock tune or any tune designed for the stock intake with something other than the stock intake is a bad idea. Among other things, doing that will result in off-target AFR's and bad load calculations which can take you to a different area of the timing map and give you a really bad day. You have two options:
1. Tune the appropriate map (Stage 1 or stock) for the intake you have.
2. Replace your intake with the stock piece, and run either the OTS stage 1 map or revert to the stock map.
1. Tune the appropriate map (Stage 1 or stock) for the intake you have.
2. Replace your intake with the stock piece, and run either the OTS stage 1 map or revert to the stock map.
#13
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the sakura intake is a larger pipe than oem. thats throwing off the maf calcs. you need to get a proper tune with correct scaling for the intake. anytime you change out an oem part that effects airflow in or out, you should assume your tune needs to updated to reflect that
Last edited by zabes; Jul 31, 2014 at 10:41 AM.
#14
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the sakura intake is a larger pipe than oem. thats throwing off the maf calcs. you need to get a proper tune with correct scaling for the intake. anytime you change out an oem part that effects airflow in or out, you should assume your tune needs to updated to reflect that
you are absolutely right the sakura intake is larger piping diameter!
#15
^ Bad advice. Again running the stock tune or any tune designed for the stock intake with something other than the stock intake is a bad idea. Among other things, doing that will result in off-target AFR's and bad load calculations which can take you to a different area of the timing map and give you a really bad day. You have two options:
1. Tune the appropriate map (Stage 1 or stock) for the intake you have.
2. Replace your intake with the stock piece, and run either the OTS stage 1 map or revert to the stock map.
1. Tune the appropriate map (Stage 1 or stock) for the intake you have.
2. Replace your intake with the stock piece, and run either the OTS stage 1 map or revert to the stock map.
The diameter of the pipe itself might be larger than stock, however the coupler reduces the diameter to the size of the MAF.
The stock tune can and will compensate for the additional air flow as measured by the MAF. The ECU will be able to add fuel accordingly to reach the target air fuel ratio.
Don't go WOT, don't boost. Just drive normal and see if the stock tune fixes the high idle/stall issue. If it does, go find a tuner. The car WILL NOT have any issues with the stock maps loaded back on if all you have is an intake and catback.