Going to replace the stock SSS sub...

econorocket · Sep 19, 2009, 05:34 PM

After only a few months of owning my car I'm already pissed off about the stock sub petering out at lower frequencies but don't want to spend a grip on a whole new sub/amp/box setup that will overpower the rest of the stock components. So to stay with the RF theme I'm going to try to use the new "PRIME" R1S410 as a direct replacement.

Just ordered it today so I will have it hopefully by next weekend, then will see if it fits. I know the JL10w1 will fit with no problem and this speaker is only about 1/4" deeper so hopefully no issues.

According to RF's website this runs optimally at 50watts RMS which is what the stock amp puts out roughly from what I've read.

I figured for $55 shipped it was worth at least trying out. I'll post up the progress and a review (assuming it fits) later.

c_reber · Sep 20, 2009, 11:53 PM

Sound about what I did. Kept the stock box (reinforced it though) and put in a RF P3 10" shallow sub. Works great. I'm not sure how much more performance you will get from this prime sub over the factory though - should be better. Oh, yeah, make sure the holes line up for the new sub into the old box. For the P3, they didn't quite line up, so I just screwed in some new screws only to find out the outer ring is really thin plastic that breaks easily (thus the reinforcement with bondo/fiberglass).

Good luck!

econorocket · Sep 21, 2009, 11:05 AM

Thanks for the heads up. I was probably going to use a wood ring underneath to give it a little more bite. Not looking for nose bleed bass. I'm just wanting to put a sub in there that will hit the frequencies that the stocker can't seem to do. I may hit you up if I run into any problems.

c_reber · Sep 21, 2009, 11:19 AM

A wood ring would be a good idea, but I think it won't mount underneath because the screw holes for the stock sub are like indents out of the plastic. You'll see what I mean when you pop out the stock sub, and remember, there is one screw on the back (into the magnet) of the sub, so you have to remove the box in order to remove the sub (screw is on the back of the box, facing the outside of the car).

But yeah send me a pm if you have any questions.

econorocket · Sep 21, 2009, 10:13 PM

Anything special I need to know about removing the box........or is it pretty self explanatory once I'm in the trunk? Hidden bolts, special tools?

jamdread · Sep 22, 2009, 06:43 AM

4 screws and a harness for the wiring

econorocket · Oct 12, 2009, 04:47 PM

Today got around to taking the sub enclosure out and removing the sub to see what i had to work with. For starters the OEM sub is a DVC. The sub I was going to use to replace does not fit perfectly (and its only a SVC). The outer rim of the speaker where you would screw it to the box is significantly smaller diameter than OEM. So basically I would need to drill new holes to mount the new sub, but they would be too close to the edge of the sub enclosure lip and does not appear to be sufficient without some kind of additional support. I think the wood ring is the best option. On the back of the enclosure it has a portion of it that comes forward that butts against the sub magnet. Pretty much any sub other than a shallow mount sub will not fit without cutting this back. On the speaker I bought, I would need to cut it back about 1-1.5" to give enough clearance for the speaker magnet to clear and for the vent on the sub to be able to breathe. I'm not sure I want to do this so I may check into a shallow mount sub instead. I'll update as I move forward.

Hope this is helpful to people that are considering doing this.

Sparx123 · Oct 12, 2009, 08:32 PM

So what are you going to do now custom box or stick with stock?

lemmysports2 · Oct 13, 2009, 01:41 PM

this IS helpful. keep us updated.. im looking to do the same thing real soon

econorocket · Oct 13, 2009, 07:24 PM

well I guess I'm going to have to get a DVC sub no matter what, as I don't think that wiring 2 channels to one speaker is an accepted way to wire a sub. If anyone with experience suggests otherwise then I might consider just using the sub I bought.

joel3987 · Oct 13, 2009, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by econorocket

Today got around to taking the sub enclosure out and removing the sub to see what i had to work with. For starters the OEM sub is a DVC. The sub I was going to use to replace does not fit perfectly (and its only a SVC). The outer rim of the speaker where you would screw it to the box is significantly smaller diameter than OEM. So basically I would need to drill new holes to mount the new sub, but they would be too close to the edge of the sub enclosure lip and does not appear to be sufficient without some kind of additional support. I think the wood ring is the best option. On the back of the enclosure it has a portion of it that comes forward that butts against the sub magnet. Pretty much any sub other than a shallow mount sub will not fit without cutting this back. On the speaker I bought, I would need to cut it back about 1-1.5" to give enough clearance for the speaker magnet to clear and for the vent on the sub to be able to breathe. I'm not sure I want to do this so I may check into a shallow mount sub instead. I'll update as I move forward.

Hope this is helpful to people that are considering doing this.

what about putting speaker in backwards
ive seen it in custom system

econorocket · Oct 14, 2009, 08:06 AM

Personally I don't think this looks "custom" enough to put it in backwards. also the speaker wires are already wired inside the box so that's just something else I would have to seal up. Trying to keep it stock appearing.

c_reber · Oct 14, 2009, 10:17 AM

Try and find another sub that is DVC? Are you trying to use the stock amp to run your new aftermarket sub? There are 2 problems I see with that: Stock amp is WEAK, stock sub is only like 1.8 ohms/voice coil - so the stock amp was running at like .9 ohms when the DVC was wired in series.

Its going to be difficult to find an aftermarket sub that will 1. fit in the enclosure, and 2. work with the factory amp.

econorocket · Oct 14, 2009, 10:54 AM

Kicker CompVR has a dual 2ohm that should work ok. They can run off of 50watts RMS. That's most likely the direction I'm going since Fosgate doesn't make anything lower than a dual 4ohm driver.

c_reber · Oct 15, 2009, 12:30 AM

RF has:
P3SD210 10" Punch P3 2-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer

Thats the exact sub that I have in my car. But it needs power.