bob marley

So are you all saying the evo does not have an individual drum for the ebrake? Woah, didn't know this.

BushBurninEvo

iTrader: (8)

i do all the necessary precautions to prevent the shake, but it happened. the only thing I didn't do was a break in procedure when I got the car...should I have done the brake break-in procedure?

BPAuto

iTrader: (10)

..chocks!

evoD

iTrader: (4)

bobmarley: yes...evo does have the drum setup for handbrakes

bushburninevo: yes...break-in procedure has much effect on how the brakes not only perform, but wear

bpauto: yea yea yea...i couldn't think of the word...i've been used to just using my tire jack =)

astondg

So if the Evolution has a seperate drum for the handbrake why can't the handbrake be used straight after hard braking?

Aston

evoD

iTrader: (4)

the handbrake design is quite a common one. you have the rotor which has a disc area for the brake pads to work on, and if you look from behind the rotor at the hat, there's an internal drum on the rotor. when a rotor heats up, the whole thing heats up(thus the whole argument of how different rims can help cool the brakes better due to heat transfer...blah blah...that's a whole different discussion). when the rotor heats up...both the area where the brake pads contact heats up as well as the hat, so when you pull the handbrake on a hot rotor, it'll expand the hat area, causing the rotor to become elliptical, not the normal warp you see when hot pads leave material on a rotor or when the brakes are depressed hard enough to deform the rotor surface(hot metals flex/deform more easily then a relatively cooler metal). honda has been using a different design, where the handbrake cable actually pulls a lever that engages the brake caliper piston directly...but the disc type brake has less stopping ability than the drum type(this is another discusson...but basically drum brakes are what they call "self energizing" where when the shoes engage, the force created by the friction pull the shoe towards the drum...engaging the brakes more. disc brakes however do not...but they offer more consistent braking and less lockup due to less heat buildup and more open exhaustion).

astondg

Ah, well obviously the whole thing would heat up, I am so dumb. I didn't know about the drums being better than discs.

Aston

evoD

iTrader: (4)

astondg: drums aren't better than discs....they're just self energizing. sorry for the previous vague description...here's a better one. the shoes on the drum type brake system when engaged, will be pushed by the drum towards whatever direction the drum is rotating, thus forcing the shoe to engage even more onto the drum itself. this is the self energizing effect i'm talking about. it does help to "stop" and to "hold" better, say in parking situations, but the drawbacks of that setup are poor consistency, recovery(cool down), and heavy parts(drum). discs brakes have much more repeatability in brake performance and do not fade nearly as much as drums do, but when you're on a hill, the same force applied by a disc brake as on a drum brake, the drum brake will keep the car in place better than a disc brake will.

Phenix

Rotors don't warp. At least one of the best brake system builders says they don't.

evoD

iTrader: (4)

phenix: if you read his statement...he's just re-describing warpage. the "rotor warp" is a "thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures", which still...is warp, since warping is just a deformation from original shape. his idea is that the warp isn't different than previously mentioned...its not the heat alone that warps (or causes a thickness variation), but the transfer of material from pad to rotor due to heat and a pad against a static rotor.

evoD

iTrader: (4)

btw, nice link phenix =) i like...

Satori

Another reason the problem comes back after machining the rotors is most people take the rotors off the car and put them on a machine. Wrong! That doesn’t' take into account for minute hub variances. You need to use an "on the car" type brake lathe to resurface the rotors.

And yes, you very much do need to break in the rotors and pads by heat cycling them in order to make the surfaces last longer and work better together. This process also helps to reduce the likelihood of pads forming a layer of gasses between the pads and rotor surface, which is one of the most common causes of high speed brake fade.

jcnel_evo8

iTrader: (2)

Hello,

Wasn't there a discussion about 3 months ago about the 'warping' issue being the stock EVO pads?

Most people seemed to have solved their braking issues by purchasing a set of Ferrodos?

Cheers,

jcnel.

Phenix

Thanks. Here's the link to more of Stoptech's write-ups but it still seems to me he is saying the rotors don't actually warp, well, i guess the statement that leads to figure 3 can be considered warping, but what a lot of people are describing here as causes of warping are really causes of deposits. At least from what I gather from my research...
But I think that's why "warping" is resolved by different pads. I've actually read (i think in a Stoptech install manual) that harder more abrasive pads can help to remove deposits (as well as destroy rotors )

carpe135

So are these Ferrodo pads sounding like the thing to get? I'm taking delivery of my Evo tomorrow, and I want to make sure and do everything right the first time with this spectacular automobile. Thanks...