Resurfacing Brake Rotors
Dec 22, 2008, 08:04 AM
#151
Rotor wear could cause the pad to wear at an angle or one side more than other and piston engagement can also have that effect.
Go ask in the regional forums for California. I order my parts via the interweb.
Jan 12, 2009, 06:47 PM
#152
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I've been reading this thread with great interest. I've a different Mitsubishi (Eclipse, please be kind 
), but a related problem -- steering wheel shake while braking at slow speed to a halt (no brake pedal pulse). My OE rotors lasted tens of thousands of miles without problem, but it was eventually time to replace them. I have since installed two different sets of OE "equivalent" rotors, but in both cases the low speed braking shimmy behavior reappeared within two thousand miles.
I kept the first pair of replacements since I couldn't understand how they could have become warped so quickly, though that's what my steering wheel was telling me
. From reading this thread, I could try pulling my current rotors and manually resurfacing them (garnet paper or steel wool and brake cleaner), but I'm also thinking both pairs of new rotors could well have been out-of-true to begin with. (Two or three out of five?)
My current thought is to get the pair-on-the-shelf over to my machinist for turning, install them, and then see where I am. Although I've always installed lug nuts in an alternating fashion and with roughly the same torque on each -- I suppose I could also try using a torque wrench (80 lb-ft) in case it helps.
Am I overlooking anything?
Replace the caliper!
), but a related problem -- steering wheel shake while braking at slow speed to a halt (no brake pedal pulse). My OE rotors lasted tens of thousands of miles without problem, but it was eventually time to replace them. I have since installed two different sets of OE "equivalent" rotors, but in both cases the low speed braking shimmy behavior reappeared within two thousand miles.I kept the first pair of replacements since I couldn't understand how they could have become warped so quickly, though that's what my steering wheel was telling me
. From reading this thread, I could try pulling my current rotors and manually resurfacing them (garnet paper or steel wool and brake cleaner), but I'm also thinking both pairs of new rotors could well have been out-of-true to begin with. (Two or three out of five?)My current thought is to get the pair-on-the-shelf over to my machinist for turning, install them, and then see where I am. Although I've always installed lug nuts in an alternating fashion and with roughly the same torque on each -- I suppose I could also try using a torque wrench (80 lb-ft) in case it helps.
Am I overlooking anything?
Replace the caliper!
Last edited by TrevorSt; Jan 12, 2009 at 06:56 PM.
If anything, the fresh material should be aiding in your braking.
Jan 23, 2009, 01:44 AM
#155
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revvin9k - not necessarily reduced braking power, what he means is reduced thermal capacity since the rotors are thinner due to the resurfacing. the lack of thermal capacity means the rotors get hotter faster and can't take as much heat before they transmit that heat to the pads, then to the calipers, and finally to the fluid which boils the fluid and results in less than ideal braking performance.
no flames for me please i work hard for my $ and i spend it as i see fit, that being said, i replace rotors when i replace pads and vice versa.
barney malone - i don't know how accurate this is but i would assume inner pad wearing faster on multi-piston fixed calipers is pretty common due to very slightly higher brake fluid pressure on that side since it receives the pressure first and residual has to travel through the metal hose to the other side of pistons(or piston). i say it is pretty common because out of all the cars i've owned and friends' cars, relatives' cars, etc. that have multi-piston calipers the inner pad always wears faster, its usually only a very slight difference but it does occur. - keep in mind, inner pad wear on a car with sliding/floating single-piston calipers is NOT normal and is likely due to lack of lubrication on the slide pins/slide screws(again, depending on piston type).
no flames for me please i work hard for my $ and i spend it as i see fit, that being said, i replace rotors when i replace pads and vice versa.
barney malone - i don't know how accurate this is but i would assume inner pad wearing faster on multi-piston fixed calipers is pretty common due to very slightly higher brake fluid pressure on that side since it receives the pressure first and residual has to travel through the metal hose to the other side of pistons(or piston). i say it is pretty common because out of all the cars i've owned and friends' cars, relatives' cars, etc. that have multi-piston calipers the inner pad always wears faster, its usually only a very slight difference but it does occur. - keep in mind, inner pad wear on a car with sliding/floating single-piston calipers is NOT normal and is likely due to lack of lubrication on the slide pins/slide screws(again, depending on piston type).
Jan 29, 2009, 01:58 PM
#157
Evolved Member
I don't think rotors should be turned at all. I just buy new rotors, but then I also run slotted rotors which are more difficult or can't be turned depending on who you ask.
If you buy a Porsche or BMW, or just about any highline car and you go in to have a brake job done, the price will floor you because they are going to charge you for brand new rotors every time. Most of those high line dealers won't even have a lathe to turn them. Its just not their way.
If you buy a Porsche or BMW, or just about any highline car and you go in to have a brake job done, the price will floor you because they are going to charge you for brand new rotors every time. Most of those high line dealers won't even have a lathe to turn them. Its just not their way.
Feb 9, 2009, 12:41 PM
#159
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If you buy a Porsche or BMW, or just about any highline car and you go in to have a brake job done, the price will floor you because they are going to charge you for brand new rotors every time. Most of those high line dealers won't even have a lathe to turn them. Its just not their way.
Last edited by TrevorSt; Feb 9, 2009 at 12:48 PM.
Feb 9, 2009, 12:47 PM
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revvin9k - not necessarily reduced braking power, what he means is reduced thermal capacity since the rotors are thinner due to the resurfacing. the lack of thermal capacity means the rotors get hotter faster and can't take as much heat before they transmit that heat to the pads, then to the calipers, and finally to the fluid which boils the fluid and results in less than ideal braking performance.
barney malone - i don't know how accurate this is but i would assume inner pad wearing faster on multi-piston fixed calipers is pretty common due to very slightly higher brake fluid pressure on that side since it receives the pressure first and residual has to travel through the metal hose to the other side of pistons(or piston). i say it is pretty common because out of all the cars i've owned and friends' cars, relatives' cars, etc. that have multi-piston calipers the inner pad always wears faster, its usually only a very slight difference but it does occur. - keep in mind, inner pad wear on a car with sliding/floating single-piston calipers is NOT normal and is likely due to lack of lubrication on the slide pins/slide screws(again, depending on piston type).
!
Feb 17, 2009, 04:16 AM
#162
Evolved Member
I would say no, that they must be replaced with new ones. I've asked this question to a few different people it get ranged answers from "it can't be done", to "it can mess up the lathe", to "it will ruin the rotor", to "it takes longer, you have to be more careful and it costs more to do."
Feb 17, 2009, 05:57 PM
#163
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I took my car to a brake only shop to get the pads changed because they were squealing. They resurfaced the rotors and I paid $900. Then the front rotors warped. Replaced with stock rotors for $87 a piece. Then rear rotors warped. Found drilled and slotted rotors and pads on ebay for $319. I will let you know if those work.
Mar 5, 2009, 08:02 PM
#165
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Any one ever turn rotors for road racing? I see people getting rid of stock rotors all the time for cheap, i figure i could pick them up and dust them off so they are true and run them for a couple track days. I guess i could do that for spairs anyway if the stock units cracked.
