Nikoro

Hello guys. Happy new year 2020. I am up to change my disc rotors, brake lines, fluid, and brake pads. I m thinking of buying 2 piece in front wheels. After some search I conclused in mtec brake 2 piece rotors, Goodridge lines, ferodo ds2500 and motul rbf 600. The use of the car on this period is daily street and some light track. I want more options and opinions please. Thanks for your time

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Centric premium rotors are great and cheap. No reason to use anything else unless you track a ton.Evo 8/9 centric rotors:

Front:
125.46064 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Solid)
126.46064 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides
127.46064 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled & Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides
128.46064 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled) - Add L or R in part number for sides
121.46064 Centric C-Tek Standard Rotor (Solid)

Rear:
125.46065 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Solid)
126.46065 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides
127.46065 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled & Slotted) - Add L or R in part number for sides
128.46065 Centric Premium High Carbon Rotor (Drilled) - Add L or R in part number for sides
121.46065 Centric C-Tek Standard Rotor (Solid)

PeakAlpha

I use Centric Premium's on my FD RX7 race car. They work well. I'd stay with blanks personally; most modern brake pads shouldn't gas, and the drilled/slotted rotors are just a really expensive way to increase the wear on your pads, and own expensive/cracked table ornaments. My track buddy started off with drilled/slotted and they lasted a day (literally four sessions) before the pads were down to the backing plates and the rotors were cracked through (cracks all starting at the drilled holes). His new blank discs are lasting a lot better. My Centric Premium blanks with proper cooling ducts have lasted 15 track days with minimal wear, and they work perfectly.

The main problem with Evo's is gonna be heat since they are relatively heavy stock. If this is a concern, then I would definitely recommend just re-building your Brembos with Stainless Steel brake pistons from Racing Brake (I once melted my aluminum pistons during a track day and replaced them with the Stainless pistons), and adding some ducts to cool your front rotors. SS is also a lot less conductive than aluminum, minimizing heat transfer to your brake fluid. If you go with their upgraded pistons, definitely opt to buy their piston seals from them (ask me how I know )

If you need more stopping power, then I'd go to a different pad compound with higher friction coefficient. I have only used Hawk pads so far; HP+ which worked well until I figured out how to brake hard, and now on a track only compound (DTC 60) to handle more heat and add friction. If you are driving on the street, a track compound will actually work less effectively cold than a street compound, so you may want to just buy two sets and swap out the pads for the track day, although the crossover pads work okay.

Dunno about brands for different Stainless brake lines, but should be easy enough to find.

Good luck brother!

bhaiterabhai

Keep the brake fluid cylinder full. Whenever the level is low, you're putting excess strain on the master brake cylinder and other components.
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LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Literally no.