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Warped rotors covered under warranty?

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Old Jan 23, 2007, 10:14 AM
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Warped rotors covered under warranty?

I have a bad vibration at highway speeds when braking. 29k on my evo. I'm going to the dealer on Friday to have this checked. I have read, through searching, of other members with this same issue. I was looking for more of a complete story of a dealer experience with getting this issue fixed (new rotors and shoes). I'm hoping this will be covered.

Thx.
Old Jan 23, 2007, 10:18 AM
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Probably not because brakes are considered wear items,but good luck though.
Old Jan 23, 2007, 11:49 AM
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As t51splbb said most likely not as they are wear items ...
Old Jan 23, 2007, 12:00 PM
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Read a bit more...are you sure it's not brake residue? I have to get rid of mine every few weeks and I daily drive in craptastic traffic for 50-70 miles a day.
Old Jan 23, 2007, 12:04 PM
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Hmm...The dealer fixed mines by resurfacing it for free. I only had like 20k miles on my car at the time and still on the original pads.
Old Jan 23, 2007, 12:06 PM
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There prob. not going to warranty your rotors. Like everyone said its a wear item.
Old Jan 23, 2007, 12:19 PM
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I understand it is a wear issue but 29k miles? Shocks / struts are too but can be defective.

How do you clean brake resdiue?

Thx
Old Jan 23, 2007, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by evrblazin
I understand it is a wear issue but 29k miles? Shocks / struts are too but can be defective.

How do you clean brake resdiue?

Thx
there's no need to replace rotors or pads. that would be an overkill. if you had truly searched a lot, you would've found posts about this issue not being rotor warpage and explaining how to fix it without any replacement. which is what removing uneven brake deposits does.
search for "bedding in new brakes".
it's a simple procedure where you do 6 to 7 times of braking with moderate force from 35 to 10 mph to warm up your brakes. never come to a complete stop.
then you do 6 to 7 times of hard braking from 60 to 10 mph. again, each time only slow down to 10 mph, but do NOT stop. after those 6-7 times drive around for 15 mins to let the brakes cool off, trying not to stop unless necessary. this should solve the problem.
Old Jan 23, 2007, 01:20 PM
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^ I appreciate your help. I will try this method and see if I can make some progress.
Old Jan 27, 2007, 10:44 PM
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Rebedded the pads twice. Followed the recommended procedures. They were definetly hot enough as they were smoking and got really mushy. I let them cool overnight.

This made no difference, in my case, which was a big disappointment. evobrakes gave me some more advice on what to do and I may have the dealer take a look this week.

I just know those fockers aren't going to cover ****. At best they will want to turn my rotors. O well just venting.
Old Jan 27, 2007, 11:07 PM
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This is just a good reason to get new rotors. The stock rotor's arent the greatest, get some Giro Disc's, or Baer's, or Performance Friction's. They're all going to be lighter.

I know this isn't what you want to hear, but they're not gonna cover them. Just spend the money and get something better.

Good luck with everything.
Old Jan 28, 2007, 07:09 AM
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I read here when I first got my evo about the brake pad residue/pad transfer material. This is the half *** version but if you sit at lights pushing down on your brakes, specially after heating up your pads you create pad transfer materal that hardens over time on your rotors, or are too light on your brakes when stopping. And in genearal you arent hard enought on your brakes in the city to remove that material aafter awhile it feels like the rotor is warped. What you have to do is go for long drives and really (safely) get on your brakes fairly hard at each stop, not as agressive as bedding though. This may take a few weeks to get rid of it all, it took me about 3 weeks but never had a problem since, and I had a VIOLENT shake if say slowing down comming off the freeway or similar speed brakeing.
Old Jan 28, 2007, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by evrblazin
Rebedded the pads twice. Followed the recommended procedures. They were definetly hot enough as they were smoking and got really mushy. I let them cool overnight.

This made no difference, in my case, which was a big disappointment. evobrakes gave me some more advice on what to do and I may have the dealer take a look this week.

I just know those fockers aren't going to cover ****. At best they will want to turn my rotors. O well just venting.
As JoizeeX said drive to cool your brakes after rebedding do not come to a complete stop with your foot on the brake when they are hot. I once sharred my car with a good friend at a track day, every time I got in my car after he drove it I felt the symptoms you are feeling but it was gone in a few laps.

Here's a link to a sticky thread that timzcat made in the "Evo Tires, Wheels, Brakes & Suspension - Sponsored by The Tire Rack" section.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=81487

Last edited by cfdfireman1; Jan 28, 2007 at 07:34 AM.
Old Jan 28, 2007, 01:04 PM
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Free adjustment period is 12months or 12k miles.

BTW, when bedding in pads you should never come to a complete stop while is cooling.
You should drive slowly for about 10min but try your best not to come to a complete stop.
Old Jan 28, 2007, 09:19 PM
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just as others have mentioned just before, you have to make sure the brakes are cool before you park it for the night. your every day driving is what does this to your rotors and some times it'll take several cycles to remove the stuck material....

some times, the rotor has the material permanently embedded and they have to resurface the rotors.
you might have to alter your street driving. for example: i don't use brakes much driving around town, i let the engine slow the car down, so eventhough i use brakes lightly, they never heat up and i don't hold them down at the light unless on a hill. sometimes i'll get the shaking, but i easily remedy it by braking hard for several corners/exit ramps.
the idea is to make sure that the deposited material always stays even, by using the brakes hard now and then (at least once a week) and letting them cool down WHILE DRIVING...then park.
evo rotors are pretty thick, unless you use brakes really hard from downhill driving or tracking it, they shouldn't warp. try AfireINSIDE's approach of doing this over several weeks.



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