Full-Race Geoff's Evo8 (daily-driver project build)
Apr 26, 2011, 01:09 PM
#1
Full-Race Geoff's Evo8 (daily-driver project build)
HUGE THANKS TO: Jon @ TRE Tranmsissions, Erin and Kevin@Kiggly Racing, Dave Localio @Headgames Motorworks, Philthy Phil P, Don@Straightline Automotive, Robi Fuller@Robispec, Kiyo Enari@Carbonetic, Mike@Touge Factory/Stance, Sean & Chuck@JE Pistons, Tony Palo@T1 race developments/ID Injectors, Ryan@Manley, Chris@Moore Tuning, Mitch & Eric@AMS, Mike @Keegan Engineering, Frank Rehak@Driveshaftshop, Zeke@Ferrea valvetrain, Kurt, Brock, Thom and Brett @ BorgWarner Turbo Systems and last but not least - Dennis, Richard, Marciek & Jethro @ Sierra Sierra Enterprises ^^^this is my dream team
This thread documents the build of my 2003 evo8. Evo's are some of my all-time favorite cars and many friends of mine own them, however this is the first evo I've personally owned. Evo 4g63 manifolds are the best selling manifold at Full-Race so ive accumulated some experience working on them over the years.
I'm making this post by category, and will continue updating this thread. as I make progress. Thanks for reading!!
Background
I previously owned a turbo 4G63 2G eclipse and had a lot of history with that car (how i met the love of my life) so when I was searching for a fun daily driver (Arizona daily drivers must have a/c!!) and came across this beaut - it was a done deal:
Teardown:
Once we had her up in the air I was really able to inspect things and saw work to be done. There was zero serious damage (phew) but we were overdue for a timing belt, all the suspension bushings were shot, the steering rack was dripping fluid, trans fluid was wayy overdue metal chunks in the trans fluid, you get the idea... I had this absurd idea I could somehow get an evo, leave it mostly stock for a while to drive around, then modify it once I got some time... well reality prevailed and within 3 hours of working on the car my shop floor looked like this:
^^so much for "ill just keep the evo a stock daily driver for a little while"
The Cyl goes to Dave @ Headgames, block to Keegan Engineering, transmission to TRE
^quick fabricated slide hammer to pull shafts easily
Ive made the decision that if im going to build this evo, I do not have the time or patience to build this car twice. Im building it once, and doing it right the first time. I am 100% keeping the car my daily driver and I intend to keep this car for many years to come. I already have (2) race cars and do not need a third. I need a car with a/c and 4 functional doors... that happens to be very very fast. I'd like for it to use the same rims/tires as my race car (18x10.5 + 275/35/18) and convert every bushing in the chassis to a spherical bearing. Also stiffen the chassis and widen the track width as much as possible... without giving up creature comforts. I decided to stitch weld 80% of the belly. There are some spots i will not get to because i dont have the time to drop the gas tank and fuel/brake lines, but whatever. i did a LOT of the underside, and will get to the inside when i do a mini-cage
^^^BEFORE stitch welding, pass side
^^^after stitch welding, pass side
^^^before stitch welding, drivers side
^^^after stitch welding, drivers side
^^^frame rails stitch welded
^^^rear suspension brackets and sheet metal all stitched up
^^^more rear susp and frame rail stitch welding
The ARK Designs evoX happens to be on the lift next to my evo while we prototyped the Full-Race Evo X turbokits
so with this evoX next to my evo8 I started wondering which parts from the X would swap to the 8/9? Fast forward and I happened to meet up with the legendary Robi Fuller of Robispec fame @ my close friend Don's shop, Straightline Automotive. I started picking Robi's brain about the suspension setup for my new daily driver evo 8. I told him my plan to get the chassis fully sorted and he was with me 100%. Then I mentioned the evo X being next to my 8 and suddenly a big smile broke out... the top secret robispec recipe was to use the complete Robispec spherical bearing kit for the rear susp, and using wider evo X front lower control arms ( evoX LCA is a direct swap !!) and eliminate the compliance bushing with a perrin PSRS add caster unit to fit bigger rims/tires and increase caster. Then he suggested to further improve suspension geometry with whiteline roll center kit. Fortunately for me Mike@Touge Factory already had a whiteline kit sent out to me with their steering rack bushings so after calling Jeff Perrin for his PSRS kit I was ready to do work!
FRONT Suspension Arms: ROBISPEC, Perrin PSRS + caster, Whiteline RCA and Steering Precision kit from Touge Factory
^^evo X wider LCAs on top, evo 8/9 stock LCAs on bottom. easy to see they use identical mounting attachments
^^ removing compliance bushing to install Perrin PSRS
^^compliance bushing removed
^^replacement evo 9 steering rack going into it's new home
^^^evo X lca installed, Perrin PSRS installed, Whiteline RCA, and (1) custom adjustable length swaybar endlink (only 1 is needed!! the other can stay stock)
^^^I swapped to oem ball joint boots instead of the whiteline ones that are prone to damage from brake heat
^^ready to go back in the car
***this is the tricky part of the evo X front lca swap***
^^^^the steering rack's stock evo Tierods are just not wide enough to properly set toe on this setup. The combination of wider front LCA's, more caster (perrin) and more tire clearance means that we need a longer tie rod. In order to set the toe at zero, there will need to be extensions made. I fabricated some and cut the stock tie rods down. I will probably make my own tie rods next time around, since it looks like they are identical to my nissan GT-R and S14 240sx
^^here are pics of the spacers i fabricated to make the tie rods longer
REAR Suspension Arms: ROBISPEC Sphericals
^^^NSFW car Pr0N!!! courtesy of robispec
^^robispec control arms, laid out
^^rear suspension pulled, all bushings removed
Dampers: Stance GR+ Pro SSD
I am using the Stance GR+Pro *special setting damper* - softer springs, additional spring-seat-washers, upgraded spherical bearing top caps, 10k front springs, 12k rear springs (down from 12k, 14k). These are good dampers for the money, IMHO the best bang for the buck out. I do not like many of the other cheaper generic JDM brand coilovers on the market
Transmission/Differentials: TRE Stage 2
This will be my daily driver so while its not built to be making a ton of power - i will be around the 600whp mark and do not want to deal with any transmission/driveline problems. I wanted to get the best transmission service available for my application. After speaking with some OEM Engineer friends and doing research - shotpeening driveline components has a huge improvement on strength. some good info here from mitsubishi: http://www.shotpeener.com/library/pdf/1990027.pdf
and from nissan: http://www.shotpeener.com/library/pdf/1990090.pdf
I've never once before come across an independent transmission rebuilder who had a legitimate shot-peening setup until TRE.. the only places that have these are massive OE mfg's, shotpeen/metal treatment specific shops or universities. This is a huge $$ investment and really sets apart those who do shootpeen transmission internals and those who do not.
The transmission is being built as a TRE STAGE 2 rebuild and will receive everything listed here, http://www.teamrip.com/TRE%20EVOLUTI...20SERVICE.html TRE replaced the following parts:
EVO-9 input shaft
EVO-9 1st gear
EVO-9 2nd gear
EVO-8 5th gear
The previous owner did not practice proper maintenance so some small damage occurred to the gears. It needed a replacement input shaft and 2nd gear because the teeth were damaged by debris and left some nasty dents on the input shaft. The 5th gear on the input shaft must be replaced with the later part number because the EVO-9 input shaft won't work with the older 5th gear. It will still be a EVO-8 5th gear ratio, just a new input shaft 5th gear.
Driveshaft shop driveshaft -- this is used to replace the worn/sloppy carrier bearings and remove a ton of rotating mass. Frank @ the Driveshaftshop has a brand new high speed balancer that makes their driveshafts have less vibrations than ever before
Engine top end: HeadGames Motorworks "Valve job w/ light cleanup" + Kiggly "Beehive" Valve springs + Ferrea Valves + AMS Intake manifold + Kelford 272 cams
Kevin @ Kiggly and Dave @ Headgames truly know the 4G63 cyl head, inside and out. Kevin believes very strongly that the evo cyl head is a great head from the factory, so with some very light cleanup and a top notch valve job ***NOT PORTING*** this head will really excel for the application at hand (NOT a drag race or big dyno build). new valve seals, AMS Intake Manifold, mil-spec oversize stock TB with new seals
Engine bottom end:
JE Pistons' new Asymmetrical FSR design are the latest and greatest from the brainiacs over there. They have redesigned their evo pistons to have more surface area on the load surface, and less surface area (for less friction) on the other. Manley Rods 150mm (to keep things simple, these are some rods from my friends old motor, he went 156mm rods), AMS balance shaft eliminator (to support the oil pump), ACL Bearings, OE mitsubishi gasket kit and oil pump, Gates Racing timing belt. Keegan engineering performed the machine work & shortblock assy.
fuel setup for daily driver E85 (our neighbors are an e85 station)
ignition: HKS DLI (thanks philthy!!)
Walbro 400LPH intank fuel pump
ID 2000cc injectors
stock fuel rail, lines, regulator, filter
^^^ARK Designs R8 rims
^^^BFG R1 275/35/18 tires
castrol SRF brake Fluid
project mu pads
stock rotors/calipers
turbo kit:
BorgWarner EFR turbo, twinscroll manifold, turbine housing a/r and wastegate config TBD
lots more updates to come!!! thanks for reading
This thread documents the build of my 2003 evo8. Evo's are some of my all-time favorite cars and many friends of mine own them, however this is the first evo I've personally owned. Evo 4g63 manifolds are the best selling manifold at Full-Race so ive accumulated some experience working on them over the years.
I'm making this post by category, and will continue updating this thread. as I make progress. Thanks for reading!!
Background
I previously owned a turbo 4G63 2G eclipse and had a lot of history with that car (how i met the love of my life) so when I was searching for a fun daily driver (Arizona daily drivers must have a/c!!) and came across this beaut - it was a done deal:
Teardown:
Once we had her up in the air I was really able to inspect things and saw work to be done. There was zero serious damage (phew) but we were overdue for a timing belt, all the suspension bushings were shot, the steering rack was dripping fluid, trans fluid was wayy overdue metal chunks in the trans fluid, you get the idea... I had this absurd idea I could somehow get an evo, leave it mostly stock for a while to drive around, then modify it once I got some time... well reality prevailed and within 3 hours of working on the car my shop floor looked like this:
^^so much for "ill just keep the evo a stock daily driver for a little while"
The Cyl goes to Dave @ Headgames, block to Keegan Engineering, transmission to TRE
^quick fabricated slide hammer to pull shafts easily
Ive made the decision that if im going to build this evo, I do not have the time or patience to build this car twice. Im building it once, and doing it right the first time. I am 100% keeping the car my daily driver and I intend to keep this car for many years to come. I already have (2) race cars and do not need a third. I need a car with a/c and 4 functional doors... that happens to be very very fast. I'd like for it to use the same rims/tires as my race car (18x10.5 + 275/35/18) and convert every bushing in the chassis to a spherical bearing. Also stiffen the chassis and widen the track width as much as possible... without giving up creature comforts. I decided to stitch weld 80% of the belly. There are some spots i will not get to because i dont have the time to drop the gas tank and fuel/brake lines, but whatever. i did a LOT of the underside, and will get to the inside when i do a mini-cage
^^^BEFORE stitch welding, pass side
^^^after stitch welding, pass side
^^^before stitch welding, drivers side
^^^after stitch welding, drivers side
^^^frame rails stitch welded
^^^rear suspension brackets and sheet metal all stitched up
^^^more rear susp and frame rail stitch welding
The ARK Designs evoX happens to be on the lift next to my evo while we prototyped the Full-Race Evo X turbokits
so with this evoX next to my evo8 I started wondering which parts from the X would swap to the 8/9? Fast forward and I happened to meet up with the legendary Robi Fuller of Robispec fame @ my close friend Don's shop, Straightline Automotive. I started picking Robi's brain about the suspension setup for my new daily driver evo 8. I told him my plan to get the chassis fully sorted and he was with me 100%. Then I mentioned the evo X being next to my 8 and suddenly a big smile broke out... the top secret robispec recipe was to use the complete Robispec spherical bearing kit for the rear susp, and using wider evo X front lower control arms ( evoX LCA is a direct swap !!) and eliminate the compliance bushing with a perrin PSRS add caster unit to fit bigger rims/tires and increase caster. Then he suggested to further improve suspension geometry with whiteline roll center kit. Fortunately for me Mike@Touge Factory already had a whiteline kit sent out to me with their steering rack bushings so after calling Jeff Perrin for his PSRS kit I was ready to do work!
FRONT Suspension Arms: ROBISPEC, Perrin PSRS + caster, Whiteline RCA and Steering Precision kit from Touge Factory
^^evo X wider LCAs on top, evo 8/9 stock LCAs on bottom. easy to see they use identical mounting attachments
^^ removing compliance bushing to install Perrin PSRS
^^compliance bushing removed
^^replacement evo 9 steering rack going into it's new home
^^^evo X lca installed, Perrin PSRS installed, Whiteline RCA, and (1) custom adjustable length swaybar endlink (only 1 is needed!! the other can stay stock)
^^^I swapped to oem ball joint boots instead of the whiteline ones that are prone to damage from brake heat
^^ready to go back in the car
***this is the tricky part of the evo X front lca swap***
^^^^the steering rack's stock evo Tierods are just not wide enough to properly set toe on this setup. The combination of wider front LCA's, more caster (perrin) and more tire clearance means that we need a longer tie rod. In order to set the toe at zero, there will need to be extensions made. I fabricated some and cut the stock tie rods down. I will probably make my own tie rods next time around, since it looks like they are identical to my nissan GT-R and S14 240sx
^^here are pics of the spacers i fabricated to make the tie rods longer
REAR Suspension Arms: ROBISPEC Sphericals
^^^NSFW car Pr0N!!! courtesy of robispec
^^robispec control arms, laid out
^^rear suspension pulled, all bushings removed
Dampers: Stance GR+ Pro SSD
I am using the Stance GR+Pro *special setting damper* - softer springs, additional spring-seat-washers, upgraded spherical bearing top caps, 10k front springs, 12k rear springs (down from 12k, 14k). These are good dampers for the money, IMHO the best bang for the buck out. I do not like many of the other cheaper generic JDM brand coilovers on the market
Transmission/Differentials: TRE Stage 2
This will be my daily driver so while its not built to be making a ton of power - i will be around the 600whp mark and do not want to deal with any transmission/driveline problems. I wanted to get the best transmission service available for my application. After speaking with some OEM Engineer friends and doing research - shotpeening driveline components has a huge improvement on strength. some good info here from mitsubishi: http://www.shotpeener.com/library/pdf/1990027.pdf
and from nissan: http://www.shotpeener.com/library/pdf/1990090.pdf
I've never once before come across an independent transmission rebuilder who had a legitimate shot-peening setup until TRE.. the only places that have these are massive OE mfg's, shotpeen/metal treatment specific shops or universities. This is a huge $$ investment and really sets apart those who do shootpeen transmission internals and those who do not.
The transmission is being built as a TRE STAGE 2 rebuild and will receive everything listed here, http://www.teamrip.com/TRE%20EVOLUTI...20SERVICE.html TRE replaced the following parts:
EVO-9 input shaft
EVO-9 1st gear
EVO-9 2nd gear
EVO-8 5th gear
The previous owner did not practice proper maintenance so some small damage occurred to the gears. It needed a replacement input shaft and 2nd gear because the teeth were damaged by debris and left some nasty dents on the input shaft. The 5th gear on the input shaft must be replaced with the later part number because the EVO-9 input shaft won't work with the older 5th gear. It will still be a EVO-8 5th gear ratio, just a new input shaft 5th gear.
Driveshaft shop driveshaft -- this is used to replace the worn/sloppy carrier bearings and remove a ton of rotating mass. Frank @ the Driveshaftshop has a brand new high speed balancer that makes their driveshafts have less vibrations than ever before
Engine top end: HeadGames Motorworks "Valve job w/ light cleanup" + Kiggly "Beehive" Valve springs + Ferrea Valves + AMS Intake manifold + Kelford 272 cams
Kevin @ Kiggly and Dave @ Headgames truly know the 4G63 cyl head, inside and out. Kevin believes very strongly that the evo cyl head is a great head from the factory, so with some very light cleanup and a top notch valve job ***NOT PORTING*** this head will really excel for the application at hand (NOT a drag race or big dyno build). new valve seals, AMS Intake Manifold, mil-spec oversize stock TB with new seals
Engine bottom end:
JE Pistons' new Asymmetrical FSR design are the latest and greatest from the brainiacs over there. They have redesigned their evo pistons to have more surface area on the load surface, and less surface area (for less friction) on the other. Manley Rods 150mm (to keep things simple, these are some rods from my friends old motor, he went 156mm rods), AMS balance shaft eliminator (to support the oil pump), ACL Bearings, OE mitsubishi gasket kit and oil pump, Gates Racing timing belt. Keegan engineering performed the machine work & shortblock assy.
fuel setup for daily driver E85 (our neighbors are an e85 station)
ignition: HKS DLI (thanks philthy!!)
Walbro 400LPH intank fuel pump
ID 2000cc injectors
stock fuel rail, lines, regulator, filter
^^^ARK Designs R8 rims
^^^BFG R1 275/35/18 tires
castrol SRF brake Fluid
project mu pads
stock rotors/calipers
turbo kit:
BorgWarner EFR turbo, twinscroll manifold, turbine housing a/r and wastegate config TBD
lots more updates to come!!! thanks for reading
Last edited by Geoff Raicer; Feb 2, 2012 at 07:35 PM.
Apr 26, 2011, 01:10 PM
#2
reserved for update #2 - how to install Front and Rear Carbonetic carbon LSD's
Parts needed to do this:
\
^^carbonetic Front & Rear carbon:carbon LSD's
FRONT CARBONETIC LSD INSTALL (bearing included with diff)
^^^from L to R: Viscous Coupling (aka VC), stock evo8 front diff (open) cover for VC and case. Ring gear and Carbonetic LSD on the bottom. **NOTE the oring groove on the top of the VC unit that will be removed
^^inside of xfer case
^^OEM diff on left, Carbonetic front LSD on right
^^viscous coupling must be machined in a lathe to remove the O-ring groove. This picture shows the VC after machining
^^lathed VC + Carbonetic front LSD + evo8 ring gear, together at last!!
^^lubing up the bearing surfaces with Mobil1 synthetic gear oil, 75W-90
^^re-using the stock shims just before shipping off to TRE so they can dial in the backlash on the ring and pinion
^^going into her new home
^^landed!
^^dont forget this oring when reassembling!! or you will have a big leak
REAR CARBONETIC LSD INSTALL
^^remove the pumpkin from the car. This is not too hard, especially if you massage the spare tire well with a hammer to save time pulling the mustache bar. slide axles out, unbolt pumpkin, unbolt mustache bar, remove diff from car
^^pumpkin on the bench, about to remove the diff cover plate
^^easy way to get the bearings on: put the diff in the freezer over night, put the bearings on a hotplate @250 degrees. a light "Tap tap" with the mallet and the bearings are fully seated, no drama
^^take the cover off, unbolt the carrier bearings and remove from the housing
^^stock next to carbonetic
... so this is where i forgot to keep taking pics. Reassembly is pretty easy/straightforwards and of course you will need to shim for backlash adjustments, so this was sent to TRE as well. Next update coming friday/saturday
Parts needed to do this:
\^^carbonetic Front & Rear carbon:carbon LSD's
FRONT CARBONETIC LSD INSTALL (bearing included with diff)
^^^from L to R: Viscous Coupling (aka VC), stock evo8 front diff (open) cover for VC and case. Ring gear and Carbonetic LSD on the bottom. **NOTE the oring groove on the top of the VC unit that will be removed
^^inside of xfer case
^^OEM diff on left, Carbonetic front LSD on right
^^viscous coupling must be machined in a lathe to remove the O-ring groove. This picture shows the VC after machining
^^lathed VC + Carbonetic front LSD + evo8 ring gear, together at last!!
^^lubing up the bearing surfaces with Mobil1 synthetic gear oil, 75W-90
^^re-using the stock shims just before shipping off to TRE so they can dial in the backlash on the ring and pinion
^^going into her new home
^^landed!
^^dont forget this oring when reassembling!! or you will have a big leak
REAR CARBONETIC LSD INSTALL
^^remove the pumpkin from the car. This is not too hard, especially if you massage the spare tire well with a hammer to save time pulling the mustache bar. slide axles out, unbolt pumpkin, unbolt mustache bar, remove diff from car
^^pumpkin on the bench, about to remove the diff cover plate
^^easy way to get the bearings on: put the diff in the freezer over night, put the bearings on a hotplate @250 degrees. a light "Tap tap" with the mallet and the bearings are fully seated, no drama
^^take the cover off, unbolt the carrier bearings and remove from the housing
^^stock next to carbonetic
... so this is where i forgot to keep taking pics. Reassembly is pretty easy/straightforwards and of course you will need to shim for backlash adjustments, so this was sent to TRE as well. Next update coming friday/saturday
Last edited by Geoff Raicer; Apr 26, 2011 at 02:02 PM.
Apr 26, 2011, 01:11 PM
#3
update sept 13 -- Full-Race has moved!! We stepped things up and outgrew the old facility, so after a long search we found an epic deal on one of the most legendary machine shops in Phoenix - a top notch 20k sq ft manufacturing facility with deep history. We intend this to be a world class, state-of-the-art turbokit and manifold design + mfg facility. The move is almost complete and I promise all of you guys reading this - we will produce some incredible stuff from our new home.
Some behind the scenes photos from the move:
^^^we made this sign with a stencil in 2002 on a friday night of boredom. It was the very beginning of Full-Race and we hang it next to the robot and liquid argon setup as a reminder of how far we've come
^^^this is a photo of the final prototype turbokit to be mocked up at the old shop: twinscroll EFR, internal wastegate **can keep A/C and full length rad** - im very excited about this, since most true street cars do not need or want external wg's + bov's... this is game changing stuff!
^^day 1 of the move. it was 117 degrees outside, the thermometer in the truck read 121 driving over there... HOT!
^^day2, bringing in the very heavy weld tables (1/2" thick steel plate) some shelves
^^day 3, setting up the new production line, drawing out the organizational charts, coming up with electrical layout and argon plumbing...
^^day 4, moved my project cars (evo and R14) to the prototyping area then transported the robotic TIG (no photos of that) note the HUGE steel gantry hoist on the ceiling...
^^day 5, began to bring the inventory over. We've got almost every turbo combination you can imagine in stock
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________________
getting back to what this thread is about: the evo! The move and EFR turbokit designs have been taking up literally all of my time, so the evo has been tied up as our prototype beast. We finished the Forward Facing twinscroll turbokit (designed for EFR 8374 and 9180 non/ac half rad setups) and then the Internal WG twinscroll A/C kit followed.
There has been a ton of progress made since the last update, now I am just waiting on the EFR internal WG twinscroll turbo to arrive, and the TRE transfer case. Then she is ready to run. I have some events coming up (etown Evo VS STI, then BW Outlaw race, SEMA and PRI) so Im not sure when i can finish, by the next update the car will be ready to fire..
TRE comes thru with the goods:
^^the TRE trans and rear diff arrived in a very strong box, carefully protected by thick dense styrofoam blocks. Exceptionally well packaged and zero damage.
^^removed from the box
^^TRE installs a custom glass sight so you can see the diff oil level and if it needs changing. A great addition to the stock cover, well done TRE
^^rear pumpkin is built with the carbonetic diff this is one of my favorite elements in the build, basic installation instructions in the post above
^^dont forget to add fluid before running!
^^stock mustache bar and diff mounts with energy suspension bushings installed. Ill probably pick up a set of aluminum mounts with bushings to save weight at some point, right now i really dont care too much other stuff to focus on.
^^diff installed in the car with energy suspension bushings
^^axles installed, you can see the Robispec spherical bearings clearly
Engine Assembly
^^headgames cyl head arrived!! Kiggly beehive valve springs installed with Ferrea stock size valves and going to receive Kelford 272 cams
^^here it is all assembled (forgot to take photos during the assembly)
^^closeup of the AMS intake manifold + milSPec Throttle body. Im a huge fan of this design, well done AMS. i could run any intake manifold on the market or I could make my own.. I feel this is a great intake manifold design so i will save myself the time and focus on the turbo side of the motor
^^using a fluidampr crank pulley / harmonic balancer. if anyone needs a good deal on one, we have plenty in stock
^^ ready to re-unite with the transmission... but first must convert the clutch lever arm to a PUSH from a PULL, and then switch the slave cylinder around..
Pull-to-PUSH clutch conversion - this is needed to run many aftermarket clutches
^here is the slave cylinder. We start by disassembling and cleaning it, then switch the feed with the bleed and the arm with the aftermarket bracket
^^replace arm with the provided bracket, in the clutch kit.
^^the lever must also be flipped around
^^undo the bolt holding the pivot in place
^^remove this "freeze plug" so the pivot shaft can slide out
^^flip the arm around, re assemble, reinstall freeze plug
^^the clutch and trans got mated to engine and then installed in the car
^^ view of how the adjuster locks into the stock arm
^^fully assembled. switch the feed to the bleed and vice-versa
Exterior
^^fitting sierra-sierra's old front fenders, stock aluminum but rolled to perfection. (these are now painted phoenix red to match the car)
^^evo X LCA's + 275's at full-lock! ackermann??
^^a buddy of mine is into the nascar world and hooks me up with splitters after the race. These are made from a composite called "tegris" and designed specifically for use as a splitter. I began to mockup on the evo, but it sticks out a bit far for street use...
^^side view. I ended up cutting this down considerably, its very easy to cut in a bandsaw with some wd40 or similar lubricant on the blade (to prevent melting of the tegris). i forgot to snap pics of the trimmed up splitter, they will be in the next post. We also did a "mitsu emblem nose chop" and painted the bumper/fenders red
Rear Strut Tower Bar
I am a firm believer in functional mods, and a welded-in strut tower gives a TON of bang-for-the-buck. For the same price as any of these generic rear bars, you can easily bring your evo to a local fabricator and have something like this done - simple and effective
^^^stock strut towers
^^fabricated steel weld plates, remove paint, prep for welding
^^putting the stock spare tire jack to good use!
^^fully welded in place
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________________
after i saw someone posting the hta3076 singlescroll beats out the 7670 twinscroll, i literally bought a 7670 twinscroll back from a customer to run it on my 2.0L evo. unfortunately someone else needed it more than I did, so i had to sell the turbo without being able to test. The car was just about ready to fire up when i had to leave for sema:
the good news is I may get a twinscroll 8374 internal-WG (literally the Sema/PRI display model) after PRI to run on my evo with our new top mount internal-WG twinscroll kit. only 2 days of work left till she is ready to run
next update will be of the twinscroll EFR internal-WG turbokit and walbro 400lph fuel pump install
Some behind the scenes photos from the move:
^^^we made this sign with a stencil in 2002 on a friday night of boredom. It was the very beginning of Full-Race and we hang it next to the robot and liquid argon setup as a reminder of how far we've come
^^^this is a photo of the final prototype turbokit to be mocked up at the old shop: twinscroll EFR, internal wastegate **can keep A/C and full length rad** - im very excited about this, since most true street cars do not need or want external wg's + bov's... this is game changing stuff!
^^day 1 of the move. it was 117 degrees outside, the thermometer in the truck read 121 driving over there... HOT!
^^day2, bringing in the very heavy weld tables (1/2" thick steel plate) some shelves
^^day 3, setting up the new production line, drawing out the organizational charts, coming up with electrical layout and argon plumbing...
^^day 4, moved my project cars (evo and R14) to the prototyping area then transported the robotic TIG (no photos of that) note the HUGE steel gantry hoist on the ceiling...
^^day 5, began to bring the inventory over. We've got almost every turbo combination you can imagine in stock
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________________
getting back to what this thread is about: the evo! The move and EFR turbokit designs have been taking up literally all of my time, so the evo has been tied up as our prototype beast. We finished the Forward Facing twinscroll turbokit (designed for EFR 8374 and 9180 non/ac half rad setups) and then the Internal WG twinscroll A/C kit followed.
There has been a ton of progress made since the last update, now I am just waiting on the EFR internal WG twinscroll turbo to arrive, and the TRE transfer case. Then she is ready to run. I have some events coming up (etown Evo VS STI, then BW Outlaw race, SEMA and PRI) so Im not sure when i can finish, by the next update the car will be ready to fire..
TRE comes thru with the goods:
^^the TRE trans and rear diff arrived in a very strong box, carefully protected by thick dense styrofoam blocks. Exceptionally well packaged and zero damage.
^^removed from the box
^^TRE installs a custom glass sight so you can see the diff oil level and if it needs changing. A great addition to the stock cover, well done TRE
^^rear pumpkin is built with the carbonetic diff this is one of my favorite elements in the build, basic installation instructions in the post above
^^dont forget to add fluid before running!
^^stock mustache bar and diff mounts with energy suspension bushings installed. Ill probably pick up a set of aluminum mounts with bushings to save weight at some point, right now i really dont care too much other stuff to focus on.
^^diff installed in the car with energy suspension bushings
^^axles installed, you can see the Robispec spherical bearings clearly
Engine Assembly
^^headgames cyl head arrived!! Kiggly beehive valve springs installed with Ferrea stock size valves and going to receive Kelford 272 cams
^^here it is all assembled (forgot to take photos during the assembly)
^^closeup of the AMS intake manifold + milSPec Throttle body. Im a huge fan of this design, well done AMS. i could run any intake manifold on the market or I could make my own.. I feel this is a great intake manifold design so i will save myself the time and focus on the turbo side of the motor
^^using a fluidampr crank pulley / harmonic balancer. if anyone needs a good deal on one, we have plenty in stock
^^ ready to re-unite with the transmission... but first must convert the clutch lever arm to a PUSH from a PULL, and then switch the slave cylinder around..
Pull-to-PUSH clutch conversion - this is needed to run many aftermarket clutches
^here is the slave cylinder. We start by disassembling and cleaning it, then switch the feed with the bleed and the arm with the aftermarket bracket
^^replace arm with the provided bracket, in the clutch kit.
^^the lever must also be flipped around
^^undo the bolt holding the pivot in place
^^remove this "freeze plug" so the pivot shaft can slide out
^^flip the arm around, re assemble, reinstall freeze plug
^^the clutch and trans got mated to engine and then installed in the car
^^ view of how the adjuster locks into the stock arm
^^fully assembled. switch the feed to the bleed and vice-versa
Exterior
^^fitting sierra-sierra's old front fenders, stock aluminum but rolled to perfection. (these are now painted phoenix red to match the car)
^^evo X LCA's + 275's at full-lock! ackermann??
^^a buddy of mine is into the nascar world and hooks me up with splitters after the race. These are made from a composite called "tegris" and designed specifically for use as a splitter. I began to mockup on the evo, but it sticks out a bit far for street use...
^^side view. I ended up cutting this down considerably, its very easy to cut in a bandsaw with some wd40 or similar lubricant on the blade (to prevent melting of the tegris). i forgot to snap pics of the trimmed up splitter, they will be in the next post. We also did a "mitsu emblem nose chop" and painted the bumper/fenders red
Rear Strut Tower Bar
I am a firm believer in functional mods, and a welded-in strut tower gives a TON of bang-for-the-buck. For the same price as any of these generic rear bars, you can easily bring your evo to a local fabricator and have something like this done - simple and effective
^^^stock strut towers
^^fabricated steel weld plates, remove paint, prep for welding
^^putting the stock spare tire jack to good use!
^^fully welded in place
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after i saw someone posting the hta3076 singlescroll beats out the 7670 twinscroll, i literally bought a 7670 twinscroll back from a customer to run it on my 2.0L evo. unfortunately someone else needed it more than I did, so i had to sell the turbo without being able to test. The car was just about ready to fire up when i had to leave for sema:
the good news is I may get a twinscroll 8374 internal-WG (literally the Sema/PRI display model) after PRI to run on my evo with our new top mount internal-WG twinscroll kit. only 2 days of work left till she is ready to run
next update will be of the twinscroll EFR internal-WG turbokit and walbro 400lph fuel pump install
Last edited by Geoff Raicer; Oct 9, 2012 at 07:08 PM.
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Apr 26, 2011, 02:10 PM
#13
thanks mitch! chris has got me covered for now, but im sure ill be hitting you up soon enough
you called me out on that since day 1 haha