Tonba's 'Monster Machine' JDM Evo 8

[Tonba]

UPDATE!

Hey all!!

Block is back from the machineshop and is ready to be assembled. We have also started work on the head. Still another few weeks to go on it.

I have sent my intake + throttle away for some MAPerformance Lovin'...
-REV3 Intake Manifold Treatment
-MIL.SPEC 65mm Throttle Modification
-AMS Fuel Rail

I finally got all my brakes, clutch, swaybars and strut braces.
-ORC Twin Plate Clutch Kit
-Cusco Front & Rear Swaybars
-Carbing Front & Rear Strut Braces (3pt w/ Master Cyl Brace front, 2pt rear)
-APP 2Piece Front Rotors
-DBA 4000 Rear Rotors
-Goodridge Braided Brake Lines
-APP 200~800* Race Brake Pads for the Front
-APP Street Pads front + Rear
-P2R Intake Thermo Gasket

Lately I have been thinking about selling my HKS EVC 6 ltd ed, and buying a Haltech Boost controller/solenoid. If I do that, Ill get an Aquamist meth kit and run dual maps on my Haltech Platnum Sport 2000 with duel boost levels. Try to get this turbo to spool a little quicker..
One map with 22psi no meth and the other with 28~30psi with meth.

What do you guys think? I would like to try and use the meth injection to get the turbo to spool quicker, but not only that, is it possible to use the meth kit on cruise as it would be nice to try and get better fuel consumption on cruise..

What do you lot think? Thoughts?

[one11]

Hey i see this on jdmst!
Great parts man

[EvoLutionized8]

In reference to your EVC, why don't you just keep the VI and set both A and B settings for the boost levels you want... and of course tune for both. Don't see a reason really to swap it out. I personally have the EVC V limited black and love it. Holds boost like no other.

for your power I wouldn't worry about oversized valves either. You should be flowing more than enough air with that setup.

[Tonba]

^ Only reason is, that the EVC doesnt change boost automatically with aquamist falesafes... hence the haltech boost controler..

[Tonba]

Hey all,

Just thought I would quickly update everyone.

ENGINE - BOTTOM END
The engine is comming along nicely. Crank, rods and pistons are in the block. Balance shafts are removed. We are starting to put all the other things back on the block. We originally had an issue of the carrillo rods clearing the cylinder bores. Im not selling my 1000hp+ rods as they are only suited to a 2.0L evo, not stroker cranks. We are now using tomei rods. (these are about 6mm more narrow then the carrillos)

ENGINE - TOP END
The topend is comming along slowly. The porting on the exhaust side is finished and we are now polishing the exhaust ports. Still have not looked at the intake yet. We had an issue of the cams having too high of lift and the bottom of the standard retainers, destroyed the valve stem seals. It looks like we may still have this issue with the new spring and retainers as the retainers are still thick. They are still thinner then the stock items, but we want to make sure there is 1mm worth of clearence between the valve stem seal and the bottom of the retainer. To help with this problem, we have decided to cut the valve guides back, and push them deeper into the ports.

ENGINE - INTAKE
The machineing company recieved my intake manifold + throttle last thursday. They have cut open the manifold, flow benched it (to 'baseline' it) and have started porting. The throttle body has been pulled apart, and we have started to size it up with the new butterfly + machined throttle shaft.

When we do the run in tune, Im going to run the car on the stock intercooler piping, but when it is ready for the final tune, we are going to relocate the battery, and custom fabricate a short length intercooler pipe set, and Ill get a flange welded on for a blowoff valve. (the trust turbo kit doesnt come with one). I have been thinking about the turbosmart steath series race port 50mm. Not sure though. Could be too loud!

DRIVELINE/SUSPENSION - BRAKES
I have got a set of 2-piece APP front rotors, a set of DBA 400 rear rotors, Good Ridge braided brakelines, AP Racing 660 race brake fluid, street pads and a set of APP Race pads (200~880*C) for the track. This weekend the calipers are comming off and we are painting them. YAY! (will post up pictures of that when we do it!)

See how they hold up..

DRIVELINE/SUSPENSION - CHASSIS
I already have a Carbing 6pt underbody chassis brace and cusco trunk brace, but I just recently got a Carbing 2pt rear strut brace and Carbing 3pt front strut brace with master cyl/fire wall support to stop flexing. If money permits, I would like to get a set of Jspeed fender braces and a Beatrush or DoLuck X-Brace. (behind the front seats across the floor/transmission tunnel joining the two sides of the car together. Stops mid chassis twist)

DRIVELINE/SUSPENSION - SUSPENSION
Suspension wise, I had ordered a set of cusco swaybars (which have just landed).
I already have a set of near new tein monoflex on the car. (10,000km on them). If the dollar gets better and money permits, I would like to upgrade these to a set of either Aragosta RACE or Ohlins Flag-L as these more suit the caliber and speed of the car..

DRIVELINE/SUSPENSION - DRIVELINE
My ORC 559 Twin Plate has just arrived!! When it comes time, this will be going in with braided clutch lines and the full push-pull conversion kit. Standard gearbox & diffs remain. I may look into a Ralliart ACD/AYC CPU, depending on how it reacts on the track. If anything fails with the gearbox, I will probebly end up swapping it out for a Ralliart RS 5-Speed Box as it is stronger. But at this stage, Im going to see how everything holds up with the power + torque.

VISUALS - INTERIOR
I have a VERY standard interior at the moment, but Im looking to change that. I have a Coltspeed Triple Meter Radio Surround on the way from japan. I have a NEW in box clarion 2-din dvd player+7"LCD that i have, but it wont fit in the new radio surround. So ill have to sell that. Besides, Its too ricey for this car now.. Im going to look for just a CD player. I have been looking a Eclipse CD5030 player. I also have a high end set of Diamond Audio HEX 6 just sitting here, so I might install them in the front doors along with a Audison LRx2.500 AMP to power them. (which I also have just sitting here from my last car, new in box... haha).

As I mentioned above, Im going to relocate my battery to the boot (better weight distribution, lol) and Im also going to install a kill switch system for track use.

Also, Im going to wrap the dash inserts, power window panels, shifter surround and radio surround in carbon fibre. That should give it a good look. =D
When I can afford it, I would really like to change the trim colour and get a velo race seat for myself.

VISUALS - EXTERIOR
As the car is already rolling on some 18" R34 GTR rims for street duties, and 17" R33 GTR rims for track duties, Im not in a big rush to get new rims. (although its always on the cards.. hmmmm, CE28's...yummy)

This weekend Ill be pulling my headlights and tail light apart and repainting the chrome ghayness to a nice steath black. I might paint my projectors red too.. haha.

The car already has a carbon exhaust shroud, but I think it needs something else, so Im going to order a DoLuck carbon front splitter, like the FQ400. Other then that, the exterior jsut needs a REALLY look clean/wax/buff. Also might debadge the rear (keeping only the mitsu badge of course!!)

[Dragracer187]

that is a really nice build, post some pics of the progress. Where did you get the Ti Exhaust Manifold Nuts???