Some pics of the PLX Wideband Installed on my 9.
EVOSCAN currently doesn't support this controller for logging, nevertheless - Hamish says he'll be adding support for it.
Notes:
#1 - If you bought an SM-AFR w/ Sensor, you'll most likely get a TYPE-B sensor. The problem with the Type-B sensor is that it comes with a short pigtail (considering the hole on the chassis is right above the downpipe, having a dangling connector really close to said downpipe ain't a good idea). Got some options to overcome that dilemma listed below.
Option #1 - Call PLX and they will sell you a specially packaged SM-AFR w/ sensor combo that comes with their Type-A equivalent. You need to make a phone call as said combo is not listed in their online store - might want to ask if they'll pricematch their distributors (
for example - StreetRays.com)
Option #2 -
Buy an SM-AFR with Type-B,
send it to PLX unopened and they'll replace it with an SM-AFR that comes w/ the Type-A sensor (will end up costing the same as #1 after the shipping ping-pong)
Option #3 - Purchase the
SM-AFR w/out the Sensor -
143$, purchase
Type-A Harness -
44$, and Purchase a
Type-A Sensor -
76$ (I believe it's just a Bosch Wideband Sensor - Part #17014 - available from Autozone). A drawback to this approach is that this will cost you significantly more compared to buying the
SM-AFR w/ Type-B harness and Sensor combo (166$).
Option #4 - Last resort, Extend the O2 Pigtail yourself.
Here's how to extend the O2 Pigtail
1) Cut the sensor pigtail two and a half inches from the HARNESS connector (so that you'll have a lot of wire on the sensor side, the HARNESS connector side will be fairly short).
2) You need 16 gauge wires - 5 of them.
3) You need to use
non-insulated butt connectors, crimp em, then cover each connector w/ heatshrink tubing. (can't solder because the bosch sensor uses stainless steel wire in the pigtail).
4) You must then cover the heatshrinked butt connector with the fiberglass sheath from the sensor (to protect it from the heat).
5) Cover the rest of the wires w/ heatshrink tubing
Finished product should look something like below. Pain in the ass, will cost your much more now (need to buy crimping tools, non insulated butt connectors, heatshrink tubing and etc) and in the long term (replacement TYPE-A sensors are cheaper, especially when bought from Autozone),
do yourself a favor and try to get the SM-AFR w/ the Type A sensor and harness instead.
#2 - This is where I stuck the module, I just velcro'd it to the thing-a-ma-jig (dunno what that is - controller looking device w/ yellow connectors).
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#3 - Here's where I routed the serial out cable.
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#4 - I tapped power from the Cig Lighter Connector (brown is power, black is ground).
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#5 - I used Dean Ultra Plugs (available from any Hobby Shop), got two female ends just in case I decide to purchase the PLX Boost Module + Gauge.
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#6 - Here's where I routed the wideband cable (per others), I had to make the hole slightly larger to drop in the sensor. I didn't hack the stock grommet to bits, I decided to purchase a bag of 25 grommets that's perfect for the job at hand from McMaster.com - Part Number (9307K76). It has a 1/4" Inner Diameter Hole (just big enough to let the cable through and nothing else).
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#7 - Finished.
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Sample Source code for reading from a PLX via its Serial Support
