HKS Timer Type 0 – RPM Connection
Nov 28, 2004, 09:06 PM
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HKS Timer Type 0 – RPM Connection
I just installed a HKS Turbo Timer Type O in my MR using the various instructions here. A few observations that may be of help to others:
Warranty - I checked with the service manager at my local Mitsu dealer to find out if they would try to void my warranty if I installed a timer. Answer – no as long as I didn’t wire it to the ECU.
Auto Function – HKS tech. support told me that some (many?) cars produce enough RPM-induced ripple in the car’s power supply voltage to activate the timer’s Auto function sensor. This seems to be the case with my MR as it works perfectly without a direct connection to the ECU’s RPM wire. I did however run a dead end wire connected to the RPM input lead on the end of the timer’s built-in harness – which in my installation is behind the driver side lower dash panel – to near the ECU and zip-tied it off behind the glove box in case I needed to hook it up in the future without having to disassemble the lower dash and steering wheel covers. So in my installation I’m probably getting the RPM signal thru the ripple voltage or, possibly – and I’m just guessing here - the unconnected wire running the behind the width of the dash is picking up an induced RPM signal. Either way, I’m getting the necessary RPM input without messing with the ECU. Unfortunately, without taking apart the dash I can’t disconnect the dead end wire to see if it makes a difference.
Auto Function Works Great – I didn’t buy the Type O expecting to use the Auto function, but now that it works, its a great feature and use it all the time. Besides, its kind of like scoring points on a video game....as you drive harder you can watch the cool down time increase on the display.
Remote/Alarm Locking – Others have commented that their factory remote/alarm locking didn’t let them remote lock the car with the engine running on the timer. I used the HKS harness and everything works perfectly.
Mounting – instead of using the HKS supplied double-stick tape, I used 3M ScotchLock which is a industrial strength rigid type of Velcro sold at Radio Shack. Instead of small, fabric-like loops and hooks, ScotchLock uses rigid plastic hooks and loops. It’s very strong but can be separated with care.
I hope some of this helps others.
Warranty - I checked with the service manager at my local Mitsu dealer to find out if they would try to void my warranty if I installed a timer. Answer – no as long as I didn’t wire it to the ECU.
Auto Function – HKS tech. support told me that some (many?) cars produce enough RPM-induced ripple in the car’s power supply voltage to activate the timer’s Auto function sensor. This seems to be the case with my MR as it works perfectly without a direct connection to the ECU’s RPM wire. I did however run a dead end wire connected to the RPM input lead on the end of the timer’s built-in harness – which in my installation is behind the driver side lower dash panel – to near the ECU and zip-tied it off behind the glove box in case I needed to hook it up in the future without having to disassemble the lower dash and steering wheel covers. So in my installation I’m probably getting the RPM signal thru the ripple voltage or, possibly – and I’m just guessing here - the unconnected wire running the behind the width of the dash is picking up an induced RPM signal. Either way, I’m getting the necessary RPM input without messing with the ECU. Unfortunately, without taking apart the dash I can’t disconnect the dead end wire to see if it makes a difference.
Auto Function Works Great – I didn’t buy the Type O expecting to use the Auto function, but now that it works, its a great feature and use it all the time. Besides, its kind of like scoring points on a video game....as you drive harder you can watch the cool down time increase on the display.
Remote/Alarm Locking – Others have commented that their factory remote/alarm locking didn’t let them remote lock the car with the engine running on the timer. I used the HKS harness and everything works perfectly.
Mounting – instead of using the HKS supplied double-stick tape, I used 3M ScotchLock which is a industrial strength rigid type of Velcro sold at Radio Shack. Instead of small, fabric-like loops and hooks, ScotchLock uses rigid plastic hooks and loops. It’s very strong but can be separated with care.
I hope some of this helps others.
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